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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Greetings, again, fellow builders,
Inspired by Dave the Bass, and emboldened by my success with Zigmahornets, I've begun the Saburos I said I was gonna do back on Dave's thread. I'm persuaded by the wisdom of drawing out the plans, life sized, on one side of each speaker before cutting any of the internal pieces to size. I'm up against a measurement problem with determining the size of the deflector bits (Def.1 to Def.6). Estimate #1 One rough and ready idea I had was carefully measure a print out of the plans, and extrapolate what it should be in actual units. Estimate #2 I tried to cross reference these estimates by measuring the angle of the diagonal red-broken line on the plan that traces the slope of the deflector. I reproduced that (157.5, more or less, degree angle) line on my speaker panel, and drew in the deflector pieces -- they don't correspond to the measurements taken as described for Estimate #1, above. Any advice here? Does anyone have actual measurement values? Thank you. Brenton Last edited by Wha' DIYa know?; 10th July 2010 at 08:37 PM. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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I think I'm going to proceed on the notion that measurements in this area of the speaker aren't all that critical.
I'm talking a difference of less than half an inch. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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66 degrees
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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YOU just drew that in! Was that there before?
Thanks Dave, I was pretty close on that angle ( I was measuring from the speaker top, rather than the back, as you have it shown ). One thing I have to say, incase Im not the only one to tumble to this late in life: Use a table saw! I mangled some perfectly good pieces of wood. Gave up. Went to Kijiji, and got a very sollid table saw used for $100! |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
Don't be surprised if you need to spend close to that on a decent blade the a decent 8" 60 Tooth ATB carbide blade ( Freud, etc) will likely set you back $60 - $80, and will pay for itself the first time you crosscut a piece of veneered faced plywood /MDF or PB core
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you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Yes. No.
Helps to have the CAD files easily accessible. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Good advice, Chris. Now that I'm getting together a good collection of tools, what's a fellow to do, but ... start thinking about another build after this one!
I gotta say that during the Zigma build, I was mostly anxious the whole time, but this time? This is really fun! And Dave, it absolutely helps that you have this handy, and that you never seem far away from the forum. Helps me, for sure! Back to the garage with me. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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I'll try and post a picture later.
All the internal bits are cut and pasted, carpet backing for dampening is glued and/or velcro-ed into place. Binding posts with internal speaker wiring installed. I'm just about ready to slap on the final side panel. Here's the thing what's buggin me about that. Try, as I did, to make precise cuts with the table saw, it wasn't perfect. I've had to plane down some of the internal pieces to make them level with the front and back panels of the cabinet. I'm a little concerned they won't all make a tight fit to the side of the speaker yet to be installed. Should I use some of this thick silicone glue on the edges of the speaker internal panels? That would certainly ensure any gaps are filled. Is this a no no? Maybe it doesn't really matter if there are small gaps. Thanks.... |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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As someone suggested on here at some point - get some of those self-adhesive foam strips that are used to seal doorframes and the like. That way, you can remove the panel to play with stuffing etc. The foam seals come off easily enough, so when you're happy, you can glue the panel on for a more permanent fastening. I tend to use plenty of PVA when I'm doing this, but I've recently found out that normal silicon sticks things down well if there's plenty of it.
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iPod Touch (playing LossLess) > 4th order LR crossover @80Hz > Amp-6b > Fostex FE126eN in folded ML-Voigt Pipes ------------------------------------------------------------> Samson Servo 240 > W6-1139SG Tapped Horns |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Hi Chris,,
Thanks for the tips! That's a great idea. So, should I then just screw down the panel, till I'm happy it all works? Glue it up then? |
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