Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Full Range

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10th July 2010, 07:31 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Default New Saburo Build thread

Greetings, again, fellow builders,

Inspired by Dave the Bass, and emboldened by my success with Zigmahornets, I've begun the Saburos I said I was gonna do back on Dave's thread.

I'm persuaded by the wisdom of drawing out the plans, life sized, on one side of each speaker before cutting any of the internal pieces to size.

I'm up against a measurement problem with determining the size of the deflector bits (Def.1 to Def.6).

Estimate #1
One rough and ready idea I had was carefully measure a print out of the plans, and extrapolate what it should be in actual units.

Estimate #2
I tried to cross reference these estimates by measuring the angle of the diagonal red-broken line on the plan that traces the slope of the deflector.

I reproduced that (157.5, more or less, degree angle) line on my speaker panel, and drew in the deflector pieces -- they don't correspond to the measurements taken as described for Estimate #1, above.

Any advice here?

Does anyone have actual measurement values?

Thank you.

Brenton

Last edited by Wha' DIYa know?; 10th July 2010 at 07:37 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th July 2010, 11:05 PM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
I think I'm going to proceed on the notion that measurements in this area of the speaker aren't all that critical.

I'm talking a difference of less than half an inch.
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th July 2010, 12:27 AM   #3
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
66 degrees

dave
Attached Images
File Type: png saburo-deflector-angle.png (3.2 KB, 756 views)
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th July 2010, 02:37 AM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
YOU just drew that in! Was that there before?

Thanks Dave, I was pretty close on that angle ( I was measuring from the speaker top, rather than the back, as you have it shown ).

One thing I have to say, incase Im not the only one to tumble to this late in life:

Use a table saw!

I mangled some perfectly good pieces of wood. Gave up. Went to Kijiji, and got a very sollid table saw used for $100!
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th July 2010, 02:56 AM   #5
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wha' DIYa know? View Post
YOU just drew that in! Was that there before?

Thanks Dave, I was pretty close on that angle ( I was measuring from the speaker top, rather than the back, as you have it shown ).

One thing I have to say, incase Im not the only one to tumble to this late in life:

Use a table saw!

I mangled some perfectly good pieces of wood. Gave up. Went to Kijiji, and got a very sollid table saw used for $100!

Don't be surprised if you need to spend close to that on a decent blade
the a decent 8" 60 Tooth ATB carbide blade ( Freud, etc) will likely set you back $60 - $80, and will pay for itself the first time you crosscut a piece of veneered faced plywood /MDF or PB core
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you?
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th July 2010, 06:26 AM   #6
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wha' DIYa know? View Post
YOU just drew that in! Was that there before?
Yes. No.

Helps to have the CAD files easily accessible.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th July 2010, 06:38 PM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Good advice, Chris. Now that I'm getting together a good collection of tools, what's a fellow to do, but ... start thinking about another build after this one!

I gotta say that during the Zigma build, I was mostly anxious the whole time, but this time? This is really fun!

And Dave, it absolutely helps that you have this handy, and that you never seem far away from the forum. Helps me, for sure!

Back to the garage with me.
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th July 2010, 02:04 PM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Default Update.

I'll try and post a picture later.

All the internal bits are cut and pasted, carpet backing for dampening is glued and/or velcro-ed into place. Binding posts with internal speaker wiring installed.

I'm just about ready to slap on the final side panel. Here's the thing what's buggin me about that.

Try, as I did, to make precise cuts with the table saw, it wasn't perfect. I've had to plane down some of the internal pieces to make them level with the front and back panels of the cabinet.

I'm a little concerned they won't all make a tight fit to the side of the speaker yet to be installed.

Should I use some of this thick silicone glue on the edges of the speaker internal panels? That would certainly ensure any gaps are filled. Is this a no no?

Maybe it doesn't really matter if there are small gaps.

Thanks....
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th July 2010, 02:16 PM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
chris661's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Sheffield
Blog Entries: 8
As someone suggested on here at some point - get some of those self-adhesive foam strips that are used to seal doorframes and the like. That way, you can remove the panel to play with stuffing etc. The foam seals come off easily enough, so when you're happy, you can glue the panel on for a more permanent fastening. I tend to use plenty of PVA when I'm doing this, but I've recently found out that normal silicon sticks things down well if there's plenty of it.
__________________
"Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo
My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th July 2010, 02:22 PM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Hi Chris,,
Thanks for the tips! That's a great idea.

So, should I then just screw down the panel, till I'm happy it all works? Glue it up then?
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Want to build Mikasa/Saburo but..... kin0kin Full Range 55 16th February 2010 10:41 PM
Sorry another newbie build thread soupdragon Multi-Way 30 9th December 2008 05:29 PM
My TABAQ Build Thread Consul Full Range 17 3rd September 2008 09:50 PM
New Project Build Thread ryoung Multi-Way 5 19th April 2008 01:15 AM
The ESL Build Thread BillH Planars & Exotics 172 8th November 2006 09:01 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 04:30 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2