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Old 7th July 2010, 03:59 AM   #11
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Nice work Dennis.

I bought the plans 2 years ago but keep getting put off by the angled cuts needed to put these together.

Cheers,

Alex
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Old 8th July 2010, 06:44 PM   #12
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex from Oz View Post
Nice work Dennis.

I bought the plans 2 years ago but keep getting put off by the angled cuts needed to put these together.

Cheers,

Alex

I did as well, but not so much put off by the complexity of build, as the fact that I don't really have an optimal room for them. Rear mouthed horns/BVRs that benefit from proximity to a corner are one thing, but having a room the right dimensions and actually being able to dedicate the corners and adjoining wall/floor space is what worried me. The only room over which I'm permitted full dominion is a narrow/long basement boy*cave - just over 8ft wide and 23ft long L-shaped

* clearly a "real" man would accept no such limitations, but I long ago dispensed with that self-delusion
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Old 9th July 2010, 04:33 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post

The only room over which I'm permitted full dominion is a narrow/long basement boy*cave - just over 8ft wide and 23ft long L-shaped

* clearly a "real" man would accept no such limitations, but I long ago dispensed with that self-delusion
Man, that is a tough space to work with...

Real men understand the value of communication, consideration and compromise (I am told, consider resisting and settle for what I can get )

Cheers,

Alex
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Old 12th July 2010, 12:50 AM   #14
JZatopa is offline JZatopa  United States
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I have wanted a pair of these for years but never had the right combination of time, tools money. Currently I don't have the time or tools. I have always hopped that I would find someone within my state or a neighboring state who was building a pair who I could pay to build me a pair or to work together with. I found someone selling a finished pair but they want quite a bit more then I could afford. Maybe one day it will happen. I would love to hear those speakers in a room with proper acoustical treatment and my Decware amp.
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Old 11th December 2011, 08:43 PM   #15
Bigun is offline Bigun  Canada
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That's a nice build, makes it look easy - I'm tempted. If any of you guys who have a pair of these corner horns are still using them I'd be interested to know how you feel about them after the test of time, and I may have a couple of questions...
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Old 16th February 2012, 06:22 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Bigun View Post
That's a nice build, makes it look easy - I'm tempted. If any of you guys who have a pair of these corner horns are still using them I'd be interested to know how you feel about them after the test of time, and I may have a couple of questions...
I have now had mine for close to two years and they still fascinate me and others that have heard them. The middle and high end sounds like any other Fostex full range speaker. It is down in the lower end where so much of the body of the music lives that these speakers are different from others.
Having some time to analyze and compare with other high end speakers, I believe that the Dec Horns have much lower low end distortion than speakers of other configurations. From 50 to 200 HZ the music is incredibly clean. Everyone who listens comments on it.
A Dec Horn with a 6 inch Fostex provides equivalent base to a 12 inch woofer.
I suppose that it makes sense that very very light weight cones that only move maybe 1/16 inch at fairly high sound volumes will have less distortion than big massive cones slamming the air into submission.
I also think that the design of the Dec Horns provides less distortion than other horns. They have only one change of direction from throat to mouth instead of the labyrinth of changes found in other horns.
They definitely need to be placed in corners. My previous comments about the corner placement leading to all sorts of standing wave issues are now pretty much moot. Mine are out in a 500 square foot shop, but having added some more machinery and a couple of material racks, the standing waves have disappeared.
Build them and you will have a unique looking and wonderful sounding set of speakers.
My previous offer still stands. Buy a set of plans from Steve and e-mail me that you actually have bought the plans and I will send you a set of plywood templates that will really help in aligning all the little vertical panels that make up the cabinets.
Dennis
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Old 13th April 2012, 01:50 PM   #17
tomlang is offline tomlang  United States
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I have two Fostek FE167E's and the plans for this forthcoming from a member here that decided not to proceed on this project. I plan on cutting as many pieces as possible on my CNC router.

I wonder how much "simplification" of this design I can get away with? For example, how necessary is the front curvature of the horn on either side of the driver? Since the horn only goes to 110 Hz I cannot imagine it making a difference. If it were straight it would save alot of sanding and filling.

A couple of things cutting via CNC come to mind, first the top and bottom will be rabbeted to fit all the panels to facilitate alignment. Second, I can program the cutting bit to cut the weird miters on the pieces as well.

Here is a thread I did of another horn speaker, a University Dean (prior to knowing how to cut miters on the machine).

University Speaker "Dean" similar to "Classic" 3D Model and Build - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
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Old 15th April 2012, 06:16 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by tomlang View Post
I have two Fostek FE167E's and the plans for this forthcoming from a member here that decided not to proceed on this project. I plan on cutting as many pieces as possible on my CNC router.

I wonder how much "simplification" of this design I can get away with? For example, how necessary is the front curvature of the horn on either side of the driver? Since the horn only goes to 110 Hz I cannot imagine it making a difference. If it were straight it would save alot of sanding and filling.

A couple of things cutting via CNC come to mind, first the top and bottom will be rabbeted to fit all the panels to facilitate alignment. Second, I can program the cutting bit to cut the weird miters on the pieces as well.

Here is a thread I did of another horn speaker, a University Dean (prior to knowing how to cut miters on the machine).

University Speaker "Dean" similar to "Classic" 3D Model and Build - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
I would guess that you can simplify the curved front a lot and it will still work as long as the volume in the rear chamber is similar. I plan on making a second set this summer and using 8 inch Fostek EN drivers. That will entail widening the fronts a bit.
If you cut the bevels per plan, the fronts are almost curved.When I built mine, I curved the front of one speaker with bondo. The other I left raw. From five feet back, you cannot see the difference.
I read that you have a ShopBot. I cut the fronts and internal small pieces on my ShopBot. Most important, I engraved the template on the top and bottom panels. This made it easy to align the vertical panels. Use a t-square on everything. If any of the vertical panels are tilted, it all goes wonky fast.
Last week I was visited by a guy building a set of these horns. I loaned him my engraved templates and he called and said that they really made a difference.
If I was doing it again, I would cut everything out with the ShopBot, not to save time, but to use the sawdust collector. There is a ton on MDF dust to be gathered on each cut and there are a lot of cuts.
I bevel 45 degree cuts on the SB by using a 45 degree v-bit. If the panels are small, I just tip the piece up with shims and plane the bevel angle on it with a face cutter. Everything else, I use a 1/4 inch bit with a 40% stepover and stair step my way up to the correct bevel. If you have a better method of making CNC bevels, I would love to hear about it.
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Old 15th April 2012, 01:27 PM   #19
tomlang is offline tomlang  United States
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Do you have Partworks with your Shopbot? If so, use the Create Fluting Toolpath and in my case, the same 1/4" flat endmill bit as I cut the parts out with. What you do is start the flutes (I made mine .15" apart) at the top of the material and have the tool go down the "incline" ---which of course is specified by the user -- till it reaches the bottom. You have to be careful with your layout to make sure you start and stop the bit at the correct place. At .15 spacing the "cut" has noticeable teeth but if you shift the adjacent part's fluting vectors by half that distance it fits together really nice. If you want virtually no teeth, go with .075 but of course that takes twice as long to machine. These teeth are not stair steps but lengthwise from the top of the material to the bottom. For example, one of these vectors cutting a 45 degree angle on 1 inch thick material would be 1.414 inches long.

I can't find a photo or scrap piece right now of the results but would be happy to send you a Partworks file of how I do this...

Last edited by tomlang; 15th April 2012 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 15th April 2012, 10:43 PM   #20
Bigun is offline Bigun  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Rech View Post
I have now had mine for close to two years and they still fascinate me and others that have heard them. The middle and high end sounds like any other Fostex full range speaker. It is down in the lower end where so much of the body of the music lives that these speakers are different from others.
Having some time to analyze and compare with other high end speakers, I believe that the Dec Horns have much lower low end distortion than speakers of other configurations. From 50 to 200 HZ the music is incredibly clean. Everyone who listens comments on it.
A Dec Horn with a 6 inch Fostex provides equivalent base to a 12 inch woofer.
I suppose that it makes sense that very very light weight cones that only move maybe 1/16 inch at fairly high sound volumes will have less distortion than big massive cones slamming the air into submission.
I also think that the design of the Dec Horns provides less distortion than other horns. They have only one change of direction from throat to mouth instead of the labyrinth of changes found in other horns.
They definitely need to be placed in corners. My previous comments about the corner placement leading to all sorts of standing wave issues are now pretty much moot. Mine are out in a 500 square foot shop, but having added some more machinery and a couple of material racks, the standing waves have disappeared.
Build them and you will have a unique looking and wonderful sounding set of speakers.
My previous offer still stands. Buy a set of plans from Steve and e-mail me that you actually have bought the plans and I will send you a set of plywood templates that will really help in aligning all the little vertical panels that make up the cabinets.
Dennis
sorry, I didn't see your response to my post - I guess there was a bit of a time gap between them. Anyhow, very interesting to read about your experience with the corner horn. I haven't made a decision about building them yet - the issue is making sure I have a corner to use one in before committing to it.

That's a really nice offer on the templates - will bear it in mind.

The corner I have available isn't huge, there's a window near the corner, I probably have 18 inches of space.
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