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Old 28th June 2010, 09:17 PM   #1
FRUGIVO is offline FRUGIVO  Spain
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Default Lowther-EX4

Hi,
Can Any one teel me how to remove the back
cover of lowther EX4 ?
Thanks!
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Old 28th June 2010, 10:54 PM   #2
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Have you contacted Lowther to ask? They're a very helpful bunch of people in my experience.

Out of curiosity, why do you want to?
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Old 29th June 2010, 02:24 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRUGIVO View Post
Hi,
Can Any one teel me how to remove the back
cover of lowther EX4 ?
Thanks!
You are going to raise a burr around the joint, so the process is not cosmetically reversible, but it is functionally reversible. The back is glued on with a black adhesive (silicone?). Work your way around the joint with a narrow bladed screwdriver. The adhesive will release eventually. Then unhook the jumper wires and you are good to go.

Bob
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Old 29th June 2010, 02:32 AM   #4
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Default What I do is

use a utility knife to cut that silicon glue. Insert the blade between the back module and the basket. Get as deep as you can. I usually make 3 or 4 passes around, trying to get a little deeper each time. Then use a thin, wide blade, in the gap. Twist, move blade 90 degrees, and repeat. This really minimizes any marking on the driver.

To put the module back on, clean off the old glue (that is the hard part), and put on new silicone glue. Put the driver face down, and align the back module. Then weight the back module with books, weights, clamps, whatever to hold it in place. Silicone takes awhile to dry.
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Jon Ver Halen
Lowther-America
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Old 29th June 2010, 06:56 AM   #5
FRUGIVO is offline FRUGIVO  Spain
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You are very kind
I'm new here

The reason is I want to put them in a Hedlund horn
This horn was designed for a dx2
the walls of my horns are damped with felt
 
in this way means i do not need the back of the speaker while the horn will be better loading
truth
 
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Old 29th June 2010, 10:24 AM   #6
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Hi FRUGIVO,
Without knowing anything about the DX4, more than price, which is enough for me I would try them with the basket first. Anything that keep higher frequencies out of the horn path would be good. Or?

Peter
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Old 29th June 2010, 10:42 AM   #7
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Well, as the cover only reduces unwanted midrange etc., frequencies, & the EX range are specifically intended for use in horn variations, I'd leave it in place. It's unlikely to do any harm & may be beneficial, although harmonic resonances from the horn will still be present of course, these being a characteristic of the horn itself rather than the driver's output.
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Old 29th June 2010, 11:18 AM   #8
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One thing, regarding horns, that I've been thinking of is, why drivers are not measured from the back. Measurment on dipoles shows quite large peaks compared to the front measurments. And I mean near field measurments.

Further on, I discovered ~2.8 k peak with my Sonido horn and Sonido driver.
Change driver with similar parameters and peak moved down.

Maybe I'm on trip in the ditch, but would not the shape and size of magnet, basket, spider and whatelse matter. Oh well, for once I have the time to waste kb here.

Cheers,
Peter
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Old 29th June 2010, 12:11 PM   #9
FRUGIVO is offline FRUGIVO  Spain
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as I have not closed one side of the horn
I could try one horn witht damping and another no
the difference is noticeable
without damping
the sound has more presence
at the middle
but the bas disappearing too
with damping
all improvement
the bas are more
marked and clear
then now
I like to try without the rear
so l,d have more references
and choose
considering
the subjective factor
when we talk
about sound
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Old 29th June 2010, 09:16 PM   #10
FRUGIVO is offline FRUGIVO  Spain
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Burgos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Ver Halen View Post
use a utility knife to cut that silicon glue. Insert the blade between the back module and the basket. Get as deep as you can. I usually make 3 or 4 passes around, trying to get a little deeper each time. Then use a thin, wide blade, in the gap. Twist, move blade 90 degrees, and repeat. This really minimizes any marking on the driver.

To put the module back on, clean off the old glue (that is the hard part), and put on new silicone glue. Put the driver face down, and align the back module. Then weight the back module with books, weights, clamps, whatever to hold it in place. Silicone takes awhile to dry.



exactly this is the way
so follow the step
and I got it
the first one I did with some scares
but the second everything was fast
definitely in my opinion and my case
the back of the speaker is unnecessary

I'm testing some time this way
I can always return to the original form
thank you very much friends
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