gee, kinda designed for quite different applications, n-est ce pas?
Mazda MX5 vs Dodge Ram 1500 crew cab pickup?
Monitor can mean many things. Your JBLs are monitors, the BBC LS3/5A is a monitor. They are totally different.
You can build a VERY nice speaker with the Alpair7. IMO, a better sounding one than the JBL, but it won't play as loud, have as much bass or be as dynamic. It will be less coloured, more musical, more accurate, and create a much better soundstage.
But it is hard to directly compare them... and their prime goals serve different purposes.
dave
You can build a VERY nice speaker with the Alpair7. IMO, a better sounding one than the JBL, but it won't play as loud, have as much bass or be as dynamic. It will be less coloured, more musical, more accurate, and create a much better soundstage.
But it is hard to directly compare them... and their prime goals serve different purposes.
dave
Thanks I see that now. Another question...what WOULD compare to the 4312's? I want to build another monitor set but have a difficult time choosing a design?
I'm not hip on JBL -- some folks did new crossovers for L100 which should alter the perception - here's one - dunno how much it applies to your 4312
JBL L100 Century
what are you trying to do with/experience from your monitor? what kind of spl peak does it have to do at 1M?
Alpair 7 is listed as a 70mm diameter cone
Revc= 3.600 Ohm
Fo= 69.0 Hz
Sd= 50.24 cm2
Vas= 3.48 Ltr
Cms= 913.149u M/N
Mmd= 5.456 g
Mms= 5.660 g
BL= 3.342 T·M
Qms= 2.015
Qes= 0.803
Qts= 0.574
Levc= 0.0188 mH
No= 0.135 %
SPLo= 84.5 dB
Xmax= 4.4-mm 1 way
Pwr= 20 Watts Nom.
JBL L100 Century
what are you trying to do with/experience from your monitor? what kind of spl peak does it have to do at 1M?
Alpair 7 is listed as a 70mm diameter cone
Revc= 3.600 Ohm
Fo= 69.0 Hz
Sd= 50.24 cm2
Vas= 3.48 Ltr
Cms= 913.149u M/N
Mmd= 5.456 g
Mms= 5.660 g
BL= 3.342 T·M
Qms= 2.015
Qes= 0.803
Qts= 0.574
Levc= 0.0188 mH
No= 0.135 %
SPLo= 84.5 dB
Xmax= 4.4-mm 1 way
Pwr= 20 Watts Nom.
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AN Alpair7 or Alpair12 with a helper woofer would be good. I would not consider your JBL anywhere near unadultrated.
dave
another JBL.
feel free to experiment with different drivers.
nothing has to be permanent ...
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A true FR does not exist. So to do true FR we need another driver. If we look at the nature of an XO, it is quickly realized that if you can keep it low, you eliminate MANY of their problems. So you take a good FR that extends all the way up, relieve it od bass duty and you get something special.
The A7 is a particularly nice choice. Mark has done great things with getting annoying resonances out of the cone and getting HF to reach past 20k. Take a nice mid-bass, something capable of at least 1 kHz
Then build a suitable box, and XO the 2 between 100-400 Hz, where exactly being a compromise between getting dynamics and keeping the XO out of the midrange.
Bi-amping opens up a lot more flexibility with driver choice, and if you are XOing low can cost less then passive components. And it usually sounds better.
I have 2 such projects (3 if you count the MJK passive OB variation). One a simple MTM ML-TL with FF85 & 2 CSS EL166 (Mark Audio #6 woofer) using a passive XO, and an all out assault with active A7 + 4 SDX7 woofers per side (working name, SuperTysen, the Blade).
The Tysen thread and its spin-offs should give you more background.
dave
The A7 is a particularly nice choice. Mark has done great things with getting annoying resonances out of the cone and getting HF to reach past 20k. Take a nice mid-bass, something capable of at least 1 kHz
Then build a suitable box, and XO the 2 between 100-400 Hz, where exactly being a compromise between getting dynamics and keeping the XO out of the midrange.
Bi-amping opens up a lot more flexibility with driver choice, and if you are XOing low can cost less then passive components. And it usually sounds better.
I have 2 such projects (3 if you count the MJK passive OB variation). One a simple MTM ML-TL with FF85 & 2 CSS EL166 (Mark Audio #6 woofer) using a passive XO, and an all out assault with active A7 + 4 SDX7 woofers per side (working name, SuperTysen, the Blade).
The Tysen thread and its spin-offs should give you more background.
dave
So concerning the alpair 7 twin driver monitors...you would have to add a sub correct? Or something else?
It is pretty easy to get the 4" Mark Audios into the 40s (CHR70, EL70, Alpair7). So no it doesn't need a "sub". If you want to increase the dynamics & the ability to play LOUD (as one thinks whenever JBLs like yours are mentioned), then they need relief on the bottom. I'm not a big fan of dedicated subwoofers, looking for something with better extension on the top. The other thing that happens, many will say the biggest benefit, is that if you actively roll off the bass on the FR, its midrange gets better.
One can always take this in steps. Start with the FR and then grow it from there if there is a need. Don't just look at the recent double bass reflex, Alpair12 in Pensil12, or any of the other gen 2 or paper cone Mark Audios can be used (depending on budget), There are a growing numbers of boxes for these, and althou the Alpair7 is not as well represented as the CHR or EL70, many of them can be adapted. Lotus^2 (with suitable tweeks) would be a killer with A7.
dave
My dual 4" tang band bamboo have 57cm2 cone area each while the alpair 7 has 50cm2.
I'm watching "Event Horizon" now. I'm glad I'm crossing at 400hz (24db LR). I'd cross lower but baffle is only 8" wide. Usually I'm a stickler wanting no crossover in the path. But sometimes I need more volume like when watching an action movie or "Band of Brothers". I'd bet that the alpairs sound a little better than my bamboos.
"The other thing that happens, many will say the biggest benefit, is that if you actively roll off the bass on the FR, its midrange gets better." well put planet10. Build it using seperate internal boxes with seperate binding posts: run both drivers wide open, use 1 of the drivers as bafffle step, try an active crossover, ghost in a woofer, fool around with f-mods to add in seperate woofers.
A driver that goes low, well you can maybe make a tranny line that will keep excursion under control. Usually a larger driver is needed to go lower than a 4".
Norman
I'm watching "Event Horizon" now. I'm glad I'm crossing at 400hz (24db LR). I'd cross lower but baffle is only 8" wide. Usually I'm a stickler wanting no crossover in the path. But sometimes I need more volume like when watching an action movie or "Band of Brothers". I'd bet that the alpairs sound a little better than my bamboos.
"The other thing that happens, many will say the biggest benefit, is that if you actively roll off the bass on the FR, its midrange gets better." well put planet10. Build it using seperate internal boxes with seperate binding posts: run both drivers wide open, use 1 of the drivers as bafffle step, try an active crossover, ghost in a woofer, fool around with f-mods to add in seperate woofers.
A driver that goes low, well you can maybe make a tranny line that will keep excursion under control. Usually a larger driver is needed to go lower than a 4".
Norman
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