Fostex FF85K in the Buschhorn Mk I?

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Ty_Bower

Ty_Bower

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Joined 2007
It appears I've gone and cut a bunch of plywood into strips. When I chop the pieces to length on the mitre saw, is it important to try to make some of the smaller angles? For example, pieces E, F and G all have angles of less than one degree. I don't think I can cut that with any kind of accuracy on my saw. The 10.6 degree acute angle at the end of L seems like it will be tricky, too.

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http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Buschhorn/P1140013.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Buschhorn/BuschhornMkIv6.gif
 
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chrisb

Member
Joined 2002
planet10 said:
That would be the equivilant for a mitre-saw. I think a tenon jig is for a table saw.

dave
Click to expand...

for a quick and safe method of cutting the bevels for the angled deflectors I'd use Delta/Porter Cable 34-184 tenoning jig (let google be your friend and take you to a review / tutorial on this great little gadget.)


OnlineToolReviews.com - Delta 34-184 Universal Tenoning Jig Review

while this tool is designed to firmly hold the workpiece at 90deg to the table saw top, there's no reason the blade can't be tilted


of course for you could build a wooden jig to accomplish the same purpose, but there are some tools on which it just pay to splurge (particularly if you can amortize the expense over hundreds of pairs
:rolleyes:)


anyway, in this case you set the bevel cut on your table saw to the more obtuse angle needed on the deflector (30deg on the saw's bevel gauge), and make the first cut the "normal" way, then leaving the bevel angle, install the workpiece in the tenoning jig and cut the acute angle.

Even if the blade setting is off a bit, you'll get a perfect fit between the front and bottom panels of the cabinet
 
Ty_Bower

Ty_Bower

Member
Joined 2007
chrisb said:
funny thing is that having built both MKI & II, I vastly preferred the "smaller" design
Click to expand...

Thanks for the encouragement. I hope I feel the same way when they are done.

There's just something I like about a bunch of wood planks. Dunno what it is. Maybe it's the way the grain fits together like a puzzle.

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http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Buschhorn/P1140017.jpg

So, I made the angle jig I found in the previously referenced link. While it isn't completely foolproof, it certainly does work. You need to be scrupulous about keeping everything perfectly square. You also need to be aware of your saw's capacity. For some angles, my 10" saw couldn't cut all the way through the 110mm wide planks, which required flipping them over and finishing the cut from the other side. This is extremely awkward when you're trying to do the 10 degree mitre and you suddenly realize you need a left handed jig.

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http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Buschhorn/P1140015.jpg
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But, it all seems to fit, even better than I expected. I think I can clean up any minor imperfections with the sander. Glue will fill in the rest.

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All the pieces are cut. Next I need to make the circle for the speaker cutout and chamfer the back side. I have no router, so I'll do this freehand with the RotoZip for the hole and the Dremel tool for the chamfer.

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http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Buschhorn/P1140029.jpg
 
Ty_Bower

Ty_Bower

Member
Joined 2007
I printed a couple templates and made the cutouts for the drivers. The CAD department at work has a plotter that can do drawings up to E size, so I also printed a full size template for the whole cabinet. I wish there were some good way to transfer the template directly onto the side panel and then I'd just build it up there. I may try to assemble as many of the internal pieces as I can, before I start to glue them to the side panel.

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http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Buschhorn/P1140030.jpg
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http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Buschhorn/P1140038.jpg
 
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chrisb

Member
Joined 2002
C

chrisb

Member
Joined 2002
Andrewbee said:
Titebond III is good here or better yet a hide glue.
Most of the white versus yellow glues also have a longer working time.
Gorilla glue (nasty stuff I would never use again) would also work.
Click to expand...


some of the newer cabinetmaker adhesives have very quick tack time at ambient temperatures above 70F ( right now it's approx 85F on the upper mezzanine of our production floor) - this can reduce the amount of time you've got to play with adjustment

a lot of white glues (Weldbond, etc) don't have the ultimate strength of yellow, but do have the advantage of drying almost clear and being easier to remove squeeze-out. (actually the newest Titebond III which has great viscosity and tacking characteristics and works very well for iron-one veneering, dries a medium brown)

agree with you on the Gorilla glue- I only use it when its expansion can be helpful in gap filling (just ensure workpieces are well clamped)
 
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