Fostex FF85K in the Buschhorn Mk I? - Page 3 - diyAudio
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Old 9th July 2010, 03:33 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ty_Bower View Post
To be honest, I thought they were going to be taller than they are.
I think tiny floorstander would be the operative word.

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Old 14th July 2010, 01:15 PM   #22
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I realized last night that there are many pieces where you can use the left speaker part as a guide for gluing the right speaker part. The photo below doesn't show a box, it's two L shaped pieces that I'm gluing simultaneously. Before the glue sets, I can align the un-glued ends to make the whole thing very square. I wish I had figured this out earlier, as it seems to make it much easier to do the corners properly.

Click the image to open in full size.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140041.jpg

Another use of spacers, these ones are 157mm and they set the distance between the front face of the cabinet and the primary internal wall C. My concern is that the corner of one cabinet didn't turn out quite perfectly square. The top piece B is a hair more than 90 degrees to the front A. I can use the spacers glue up C now, and the distance to A will be exact. But, when I go to glue on the sides I will likely try to slightly flex B to make it align with the edges, and that is going to shift the far end of C out of alignment. I'm not quite sure what to do here.

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http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140047.jpg
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Old 15th July 2010, 01:31 AM   #23
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All I can say is this had better be straight and square when the glue dries and the clamps come off.

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http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140049.jpg
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Old 15th July 2010, 03:30 PM   #24
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well, clearly a bit late but take a look at this gallery - providing of course that the parts are cut square and true, even without the dadoes (mark up the pattern on the sides / gables per your template) laying the internal panels on the sides helps things go pretty quick, and packing tape makes for a great single use, self adhesive adjustable (metric / imperial) band clamp


Flat Pack Prototype Build

The goal with this build was to assemble in a restricted space without screws or nails; for someone used to pace and resources of commercial production shop, the biggest challenge was self-imposed shortage of clamps and waiting for the glue to dry. Taking advantage of an air nailer and shop tools / space, it's possible to fabricate multiple pairs of a small BLH such as the BH MKII in a day - a decent veneering / finishing job will take longer than that.
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Old 15th July 2010, 03:39 PM   #25
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well, clearly a bit late but take a look at this gallery
Thank you! Those photos are very educational. I'm still very much in the trying to figure out which techniques work phase. I'll study your gallery and see if I can apply some ideas to my own construction.
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Old 15th July 2010, 04:52 PM   #26
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Edit: too late to edit earlier post, but I meant to say

Quote:
it's possible to fabricate multiple pairs of a small BLH such as the BH MKI
which is Ty's current project - when stretched to accommodate a 4" driver (i.e. FE126E, etc.) is the form factor upon which the FrugelHorn pictured in the previous gallery was predicated


as noted elsewhere in my posting history, I did build a pair of the larger Buschhorn MKII, but preferred the smaller enclosures overall
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Last edited by chrisb; 15th July 2010 at 05:00 PM.
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Old 19th July 2010, 01:23 AM   #27
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Taking advantage of an air nailer and shop tools / space, it's possible to fabricate multiple pairs of a small BLH such as the BH MKI in a day...
When it comes to building cabinets, I'm solidly in the "slow worker" category. I've realized that I'm not waiting for the glue to dry... it's the glue that is waiting on me. I've got to run out of pieces eventually. There are two more internal parts, then the sides will be all that remain.

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http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140064.jpg
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Old 22nd July 2010, 03:15 AM   #28
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I used the concrete block again to hold down the first side. I'm not too happy about the gap at the bottom corner of one cabinet. I noticed it while gluing, and I should have taken the time to figure out why it was doing that. I dry fit everything before I started and didn't see any big problems. At the very least, I ought to have slid the thing to the edge of the counter and clamped that edge hard, rather than hoping the concrete block would flatten it out.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140068.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140070.jpg

Anyway, I've got two cabinets now, except for the final side. I guess I need to figure out how to stuff & line the insides before I go any further.

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http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...n/P1140073.jpg
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Old 22nd July 2010, 10:37 PM   #29
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I guess I need to figure out how to stuff & line the insides before I go any further.
Any advice? I have a small roll of wool felt, maybe 1/4" thick at most. I figured I'd cut out some pieces, hit one side with 3M spray adhesive, and stick them in place. If you run the German website through the translator, it suggests:

Quote:
The damping behavior, the best sound to be adjusted. This K is the horn mouth at the transition to the vertical section (above L) through a rolled-up mat damping material stuffed loosely - a further damping is not provided.
I've colored this area in green. I'll also put some more of the felt in the top cavity in the areas shown in blue. Or should I try to line all five sides? I'd love to keep one panel unglued so I can play with the stuffing a little more, but I'm afraid it'll never make a good seal and won't really represent how it's going to work with the side glued on.

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http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4.../P1140073x.jpg
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Old 22nd July 2010, 10:45 PM   #30
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All the stuffing needed lives in the driver chamber. We lined the back top, bottom, sides with 1/2" cotton felt making sure not to restict the throat. Magnet size may preclude some of the stuff on the sides & top/bottom.

dave
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