Going to EnABLE a pair of Fostex FE126e's

[DonB]

but would like to clarify the order of the steps before I begin.

1) apply the tri-foil pattern using danmar?

2) treat the cone using Mod Podge, two thin layers and one on the dust cap.

3) apply the EnABLE pattern using the flat model rail road paint.

4) Do I need or should I post treat after the EnABLE pattern?

I have spent hours reading the EnABLE posts and above it what my basic understanding is less the fine details. Just looking for confirmation before I
begin

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by DonB

but would like to clarify the order of the steps before I begin.

1) apply the tri-foil pattern using danmar?

2) treat the cone using Mod Podge, two thin layers and one on the dust cap.

3) apply the EnABLE pattern using the flat model rail road paint.

4) Do I need or should I post treat after the EnABLE pattern?

I have spent hours reading the EnABLE posts and above it what my basic understanding is less the fine details. Just looking for confirmation before I
begin

Contact Dave at Planet10 directly - he has a fair bit of experience with this exact driver/treatment

[Highef]

Try this:
Outline of Steps to Planet10 EnABL

HF

[DonB]

Originally Posted by Highef

Try this:
Outline of Steps to Planet10 EnABL

HF

Perfect! Just what I was looking for

[DonB]

Originally Posted by Highef

Try this:
Outline of Steps to Planet10 EnABL

HF

Just checking in before I begin. Went to the local craft store and found Mod Podge and Damar Varnish. I understand the Mod Podge should be thinned, something like the consistency of automatic transmission oil, or so I read somewhere. As for the Damar it is to be used right out of the bottle. My only concern is that it seems really this and runny. Any chance I have the wrong stuff?

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by DonB

Just checking in before I begin. Went to the local craft store and found Mod Podge and Damar Varnish. I understand the Mod Podge should be thinned, something like the consistency of automatic transmission oil, or so I read somewhere. As for the Damar it is to be used right out of the bottle. My only concern is that it seems really this and runny. Any chance I have the wrong stuff?

see reply #2 above

I think Dave has more experience with this particular driver/treatment regimen than anyone, mr P included

[DonB]

Originally Posted by chrisb

see reply #2 above

I think Dave has more experience with this particular driver/treatment regimen than anyone, mr P included

I e-mailed him after your first reply, he has yet to respond

[planet10]

Sorry, i didn't respond because by the time i read your email Highef had already answered the question. (see post #3)

The only thing i have to add, is practise on some drivers you don'y mind if you muck up...

Yes damar is runny. If you overload your brush, it will run.

dave

[DonB]

Originally Posted by planet10

Sorry, i didn't respond because by the time i read your email Highef had already answered the question. (see post #3)

The only thing i have to add, is practise on some drivers you don'y mind if you muck up...

Yes damar is runny. If you overload your brush, it will run.

dave

That's OK, I sure your really busy which is why I posted my question here. I figured someone, or you, would come along with the answer. As for practice, I don't have any old speakers but I did pick up some art paper that seems to be about the same consistency as the Fostex cones. But if I mess things up I'll just order a pair from you Dave

[Highef]

The main factor for having success in trifoil/enabl is practice, indeed. I did it a lot before doing on the drivers. Do some tests with damar using a brush or a q-tip. It seems to me that the latter has less chance to run during the application.

regard
HF