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Old 8th June 2010, 10:41 PM   #221
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Dave, its what we keep explaining and only get puzzled looks...any clever bastid can measure any requested Very Important Numbers out of any box - but having something that punches instead of yawning -
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Old 8th June 2010, 10:48 PM   #222
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don't confuse price and quality
Depends when the CHRs were made. The new ones are selling here for the same as EL70.

I'd say equal quality, just different. I like the EL70 better than CHR Mk1, i'll let you know about Mk 2. EL70 being about 3 dB more efficient, with same power handling will get you a bit more level.

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Old 9th June 2010, 06:39 AM   #223
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well, wouldn't that look like **** with such a metal-strap-band-thing?
Why the boxes would be separated? When moving them, if i want to use only the satelites later on, sell the satelites or the subs?
Being able to separate them is important.

Edit: Btw which is best, CHR-70 or EL70?
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Old 9th June 2010, 07:28 AM   #224
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Edit: Btw which is best, CHR-70 or EL70?
They are both good. Just different.

I prefer EL70 to CHR70 Mk 1. Mk2s are on the break in bench. I think for you application, the pluses of the EL70 will rule the day.

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Old 9th June 2010, 08:03 AM   #225
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Knullrufs, separate boxes - . Apart from easier to move, the bass driver not shaking the fullrange all over the place...small difference, measured in not even millimeters, but a difference when listening.
Ask your best physics professor about a German named Doppler - hell tell you about phase shifts.
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Old 9th June 2010, 09:16 AM   #226
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Knullrufs, separate boxes
And it makes upgrading easier.

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Old 9th June 2010, 09:37 AM   #227
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Dave,
"And it makes upgrading easier."

Which, of course, translates as "as soon as we have it well tell"
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Old 9th June 2010, 03:47 PM   #228
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I guess I wasn't clear as to the "why would the boxes be separated?"


Aside from discussions over the "absolute" merits of physically separate enclosures for each pass band/driver vs isolated compartments within a single cabinet, the former certainly have practical advantages of moving and upgrading etc.

My real question probably should have been - "why would that (stains from Blu-Tak/ putty) be a problem?"

Except for only the short periods of time during which the system might be in transit or flux, the points of contact at which adhesive putty would be used would not be visible. And with any type of durable finish top coat, any residue from the particular type of Blu-Tak / hobby putty I've used should easily be removable. Some of the more audiophile approved spikes/cones etc that provide "secure and structural (de)coupling" would leave a definite and far more difficult to repair indentation on the contact surface.

As to metal brackets / fixing plates, etc.; while I don't normally spend that much time looking at the back-side of my speaker system, with appropriate finishing they could certainly be disguised or accented .



Re the comment about price/quality - that was in regards to the implication that there is always a linear correlation between the two. As I badly punned earlier - it ain't necessarily so.




In any case, I think that Rullknufs is a ways yet from his final decisions, and must be getting a bit confounded by the cacophony of well intentioned and contradictory advice at the various forums he's visiting.
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Last edited by chrisb; 9th June 2010 at 03:53 PM.
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Old 9th June 2010, 03:54 PM   #229
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So, the stains left by the blu-tak is relatively easy to remove? Well, i know they wont be visible as long as i have a speaker on top, but if i don't have they will be visible.
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Old 9th June 2010, 04:35 PM   #230
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So, the stains left by the blu-tak is relatively easy to remove?
Blu-Tak is specifically formulated to leave no residue.

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