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Old 14th October 2012, 04:38 PM   #1211
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rullknufs View Post
Yes, but that's not an issue really.
until you break one of them

btdt

Regardless of the type of binding posts / connectors, I'd never consider not making them removable

The recessed cup types have the additional advantage of providing a grip-handle that does not strain the posts themselves
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Old 14th October 2012, 09:06 PM   #1212
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Part of this is covered in the binding posts thread. The cup you have been using is better with the posts with plastic nuts and the smaller cutout. The ones you have are better than the ones you propose.

dave

PS: the Volvo V70 is the same colour as ours.
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Old 14th October 2012, 09:07 PM   #1213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
until you break one of them

btdt

Regardless of the type of binding posts / connectors, I'd never consider not making them removable

The recessed cup types have the additional advantage of providing a grip-handle that does not strain the posts themselves
+2
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Old 15th October 2012, 10:38 AM   #1214
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New baffles sent, to same SJ adress as before.

Didn´t cut the champher on baffle as drawing notes recomends this done after assembly.

Also reading all notes carefully which i neglected to do at first, the senility issue again, i saw the info regarding brace damping so there´s low density polyester mat enclosed with baffles.
Take care to leave ~ 15 mm all around brace surface free from damping to
leave space for the felt on attached panels.
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Old 15th October 2012, 04:13 PM   #1215
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Thank you very much Ingvar!
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Old 22nd October 2012, 10:37 AM   #1216
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If you want to see the building process I can recommend taking a look at my blog ?music
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Old 22nd October 2012, 10:19 PM   #1217
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Niklas,

From the blog pictures, it looks like the dMar-Ken70T didn't come with the final "bevel" that makes it an 8 sided prism.

And i didn't trick you into making them .... until you posted about the brace i handn't given any thot that using a baffle for the rectangular one (like you already built) would lead to the smaller trapezoid.

dave

PS: and i see you are also using the letter phi (althou yours is a capital, mine lower case)
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Old 1st December 2012, 07:56 PM   #1218
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The building process is slow, as you might have seen if you've kept an eye on my blog. So much real-life stuff going on at the moment and dad is never home to help me glue. But I will work more on them the next week, taking a week off from the gym. Going to the gym seven days a week leaves little time and energy for building speakers.

By the way, just for fun I tried setting the XO between subwoofers and the Mar-Kel70s at 300Hz instead of like ~85-90Hz. The mids and highs became a lot better, dynamic improved and it actually sounded better overall. I guess it's because I got some more "punch" in the upper bass region now that I have two 10" drivers covering it instead of two 4". The weird resonance in the subwoofer boxes at ~150Hz seems to be gone. I played the same tracks as I did the last time I heard it and it sounded clean to me.
This will have to do for now. Soundstage is a little messed up because the woofers are playing so high up but it doesn't really matter since I'm not faced toward the speakers anyways.
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Old 3rd December 2012, 02:38 PM   #1219
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I had some time to work today, check the blog!

How big holes should I drill for the screws for the drivers? 3mm?
I drilled 2.5mm today but it seemed a little too small, should I increase it to 3mm? Or maybe 3.5mm?
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Old 3rd December 2012, 05:24 PM   #1220
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By the way, Dave. Is it supposed to look like this?
Click the image to open in full size.
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