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Old 13th October 2012, 09:48 PM   #1201
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Inset or overlayed, I don't know which is what but the back panel is standing on the bottom panel.

I only have two good glamps of appropriate size. I have two small handclamps and then four big *** metal clamps that are over a meter long. So I'm doing it one step at a time and giving the glue at least an hour or two to dry (when glueing the port spacers I only gave it ~25 minutes).

Ingvar, you said you gave me some damping material to use for these cabinets. Is it the green or the white stuff that I'm supposed to use?
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Old 13th October 2012, 10:26 PM   #1202
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... big *** metal clamps that are over a meter long....
I've been in the shop where Chris has a half dozen of those clamping up a set of uFonken.

dave
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Old 13th October 2012, 11:44 PM   #1203
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At the moment I have 23 assorted bar clamps. This generally not enough to do two 40" MLTL's. Something that often comes in handy are strap clamps--1" or larger nylon tie down straps. Put three or four around a moderate sized BR and you are done.

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Old 14th October 2012, 07:11 AM   #1204
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if you're machining the rebated driver cutouts by CNC, I'd allow a fraction of mm ( a "blonde one") oversize for ease of driver fit
I know, learnt that the hard way.

Back panel is inset and all pieces are cut to 10degrees. Top and bottom are cnc ruoted to final size/shape except the last cut on the sides 90 degrees to front, i left that to Niklas to decide where to put.

The Tremco PVA glue i enclosed is very quick "biting" and dries in about 30min.

The green wool/cotton felt is for both these boxes and for the Oy kit. The
wool/fibre stuff is for damping of the braces in Oy and for the port damping.
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Old 14th October 2012, 09:02 AM   #1205
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Well, working with the big clamps is probably easy when you have a large working space.
This is how my workshop looks like. You can see part of the clamps in the upper right corner.
Click the image to open in full size.

And working outdoor is not an option since the weather is like this at the very moment.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 14th October 2012, 10:08 AM   #1206
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As for joining the back and bottom panels my dad came up with an idea.
He said that I should screw the brace to the back panel because it will ensure that the angles between bottom and back panel will be correct.

I've also decided to get some new binding posts for this set of speakers.
Right now I'm using these
Click the image to open in full size.

And I'm thinking of getting these Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 14th October 2012, 10:35 AM   #1207
zman01 is offline zman01  Bangladesh
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I've also decided to get some new binding posts for this set of speakers.
Right now I'm using these
Click the image to open in full size.

And I'm thinking of getting these Click the image to open in full size.
Are you making a removable back panel? If not the type you are using now will give you access to the connection wires, but the ones you are thinking of using will not. Also the new types look like they have much more more metal in them, not necessarily a good thing.
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Old 14th October 2012, 10:39 AM   #1208
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Nope, I don't think of making the back panel removable. If I go with the ones in the bottom picture I was thinking that I would mount them to the back plate early in the assembly process and solder the cables to them before mounting the baffle and the top.
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Old 14th October 2012, 02:24 PM   #1209
zman01 is offline zman01  Bangladesh
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With the type of terminal cup you are using now, you also have less sticking out of the backside of the speaker cabinet vs the ones you are planning to use.
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Old 14th October 2012, 02:24 PM   #1210
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Yes, but that's not an issue really.
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