Mar-Kel70 in Sweden - Page 120 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Full Range

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 13th October 2012, 06:45 PM   #1191
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
The baffle that we sent you was oversized & for the rectangular Mar-Kel (at the time the trapezoid boxes did not exist). The idea was that you would trim it to fit.

Ingvar has done you a deciSize dMar-Kel70T, since that would fit your baffle size -- and it looks like he has done an excellent job. Ingvar should have had his hands on the baffle & a driver to fit everything together. He followed the plans, but your baffle was for a different speaker, something could easily have been worked around if he had the baffle. He was working blind.

And BTW, you will be the 1st person in the world with a set of dMar-Kel70T.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2012, 06:49 PM   #1192
diyAudio Member
 
Rullknufs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sweden
Send a message via Skype™ to Rullknufs
So that's why I get the feeling of that they're smaller than my current Mar-Kels then.

What's the difference in sound between the decisize and regular size cabinets?
__________________
My audio and DIY blog: http://phimusic.blogspot.se/
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2012, 07:15 PM   #1193
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
The full size are 13 litre, the deciSize 9 litre.

No-one has heard the deciSize ones yet. And the quality differences in material are likely of greater significance than the different boxes.

12mm partical board vrs (18mm) quality ply, the later should have a big edge in DDR.

In theory the deciSize will not go as low, but we have founf that the trapezoid enclosures have a lower diffraction signature vrs the rectangular enclosures.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2012, 07:25 PM   #1194
diyAudio Member
 
Rullknufs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sweden
Send a message via Skype™ to Rullknufs
Ah, okay
__________________
My audio and DIY blog: http://phimusic.blogspot.se/
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2012, 07:43 PM   #1195
diyAudio Member
 
ingvar ahlberg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Kungsbacka on the Swedish westcoast
As said above, iŽll cut new baffles for the d version, i need the mechanical data of the driver, overall diameter, bolt circle diameter, baffle hole diameter and depth of sinking, could You mail me this Dave?
__________________
Ingvar
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2012, 07:47 PM   #1196
diyAudio Member
 
Rullknufs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sweden
Send a message via Skype™ to Rullknufs
Driver information could be found here http://www.creativesound.ca/pdf/CSS-...ata-080909.pdf

Very kind of you to cut new baffles for me, Ingvar.
__________________
My audio and DIY blog: http://phimusic.blogspot.se/
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2012, 08:56 PM   #1197
diyAudio Member
 
Rullknufs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sweden
Send a message via Skype™ to Rullknufs
Dave (or Chris), what's the best way to assemble the cabinets?

I was thinking that starting with the bottom and back panels, making sure they're right. Then the outer sides with port spacers already stuck on them as they shall be. Now the V is formed. Then the inner sides followed by the brace. After that the baffle and then finishing with the top piece?
__________________
My audio and DIY blog: http://phimusic.blogspot.se/
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2012, 09:01 PM   #1198
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
Ingvar: if you're machining the rebated driver cutouts by CNC, I'd allow a fraction of mm ( a "blonde one") oversize for ease of driver fit - particularly if there will be a non penetrating finish ( varnish, lacquer) applied.

I always like to have a driver on hand for dry fitting. In fact with the number of drivers handled over the past decade, we've managed to scrape together "dead" samples of the most common models for this purpose.
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you?
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2012, 09:06 PM   #1199
diyAudio Member
 
Rullknufs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sweden
Send a message via Skype™ to Rullknufs
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
Ingvar: if you're machining the rebated driver cutouts by CNC, I'd allow a fraction of mm ( a "blonde one") oversize for ease of driver fit - particularly if there will be a non penetrating finish ( varnish, lacquer) applied.

I always like to have a driver on hand for dry fitting. In fact with the number of drivers handled over the past decade, we've managed to scrape together "dead" samples of the most common models for this purpose.
I'll use wood stain, to keep the nice look of the birchply.
__________________
My audio and DIY blog: http://phimusic.blogspot.se/
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2012, 09:28 PM   #1200
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rullknufs View Post
I'll use wood stain, to keep the nice look of the birchply.

I was thinking more of what if anything might be applied as topcoat - as often mentioned, I spray several coats of NC lacquer, and that can build enough inside the driver cut out that if it's deadly tight before finishing, the driver can be very difficult to remove if needed.


As for assembly, I like to build the 3 layered side panels first (from the outside in), using blocks clamped or screwed to work surface to ensure alignment of panels, and measured strips between the port spacer blocks to ensure correct spacing and square alignment.

Clamps, lotsa clamps, or air powered brad nailer and short pins

Once those are dried and any glue squeeze on the ends scraped/sanded away, you've got a lot more glue surface area to work with.

Exact sequence will depend on whether the back panel is inset or overlayed. I cut the back end of port spacer strips to the 10` angle and inset the back panel for more glue surface area. Of course, I also cheat and use nail gun.

I don't try to get it all together in one set-up:

Side panels, back and bottom panel - check all for squareness, let dry

Driver brace, let dry then add panel damping - don't occlude port lots

Front baffle, let dry , add panel damping

Top (cut panel damping to friction fit before attaching top)

There are quite a few steps involved, but with today's fast setting PVA glues, you only need to wait a couple of hours max before proceeding to the next stage. Of course if you're using brad nails and will be veneering or painting over, you don't need to wait quite as long between stages - but once it's all together, definitely wait overnight before sanding and finishing.
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you?
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Phonic - MAR 4 mudanov Instruments and Amps 1 4th August 2011 12:44 AM
Mar-Ken10^2, double the love planet10 Planet 10 hifi 21 16th November 2010 02:38 AM
questions regarding Mar-Ken10 plans zottinger Planet 10 hifi 6 10th August 2010 08:37 PM
Phonic Mar 6 Amp kinser Solid State 8 11th October 2007 11:05 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 03:48 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2