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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
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I have a pair of so-claimed full-range speakers for wich I would like to build a cabinet.
First idea was to re-create the original cabinet but since I cannot find anyone who has one and who is willing to disassemble it, I'm kind of stuck. The original cabinet was a corner speaker cabinet wich was open at the back, but had some sort of waveguide (is that what it's called?) inside. It also had an additional tweeter. The speakers themselves are AFAIK made by goodman. (for a local company called Artec) Someone told me the magnets are Alnico. They are twin-cone, 12/15" and rated at 25/100 Watts Measured impedance is 8 ohm They have the code "7/79" printed on, wich looks to me as the manufacturing date. Now, where do I begin to create or find a new cabinet for these speakers? I should probably begin with measuring the specifications, but wich ones do I need? Thanks in advance, a speaker building noob.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yes, you'll need a tweeter to match them.
Let's try to guess at some of the parameters. I'm thinking efficiency will be high, (>90dB), because amplifiers at that time didn't have too much power. Following that, power handling will be fairly low, by today's standards. Think no more than 100W. I'd also expect resonance to be quite high: 60Hz+. Usually, speakers of that era like large ported boxes. I know my dad's old PA drivers are of similar age, and, when modelled, they take a silly-large box. HTH Chris PS - it'd make a lovely guitar speaker.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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I'd make one open baffle first, mount and listen - I've got RCF 12" fullrange with ~same cone, whizzer and dustcap
Last edited by freddi; 1st April 2010 at 06:39 AM. |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sibiu, Romania
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Quote:
Measuring Loudspeaker Driver Parameters The Subwoofer DIY Page - Measurements You can decide if you need a tweeter or not just by playing some music on the speakers and see if they go up enough to fit your needs.
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Any solution is a compromise. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Do you have a picture or diagram of the original cabnets? If they had some
type of waveguide and opened into the back and intended to be corner mounted that could be a back loaded horn. If they were in a horn they probably will not work well on an open baffel. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
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Thanks for all the info guys,
I'll create one open baffle just to test the sound , and it will come in handy to measure the resonance frequency, right? Does it matter how far above the ground the speaker is positioned in such a cabinet? I dont have a diagram of the original cabinets, else I would have probably just made those The back loaded horn theory sounds right to me, will any of the measurements be able to verify this speaker is intended for such a cabinet?
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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As a rule of thumb if it's intended for horn loading the QTS will be rather low
typicaly .2 to .3 where as for an open baffel look for a QTS of .7 to 1.3 |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
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Here are the results from a quick measuring session.
(The speaker was hanging from a wire, between the legs of a chair, probably not an ideal situation) I have no idea however what these Q values mean in real life. According to a website, the Qts indicates that this speaker will work well in a sealed enclosure, correct? Thanks for the links to the catalogue, rilydriver, interesting lecture!
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
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I have found the original cabinets!
If anyone ever finds a similar pair of speakers, I'll be happy to answer your questions
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