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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi!
This is my first visit to this forum, a guy from Minhembio.com - Mötesplatsen för hembio- och hifi-entusiaster told me to write here since there are lots of experienced people here. Now to the thing. I want to build a speaker, not an ordinary box with a speaker in it. I want to build something that's unusual, but still simple. I am 15 years old and not used to woodworking at all, so it has to be something simple. Tools are no problem, my father has pretty much everything that should be needed. I have been thinking of a http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...9-NBVR-map.pdf but then this guy from minhembio.com told me about The Metronome Both of them look really cool, but the price is almost too much. This is the first time i am about to build a speaker, so it has to be very simple. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Thurso, Quebec, Canada
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Well, One should run a complete section (web page) just for setting up comparison charts with all these nice design seen around here in DIY. That same one person (or plenty) should mount a table with different parameters such as :
1 graph : freq response \ overall sensitivity \ working type (ported, with radiator, open baffle, etc. 2 building complexity chart (like to 10) 3 esthetism chart (like in 2) 4 Personnal judgment chart 5 etc...... 6 Overall score (for each well known quality drivers) As for a first build Rullknufs, I would stick to something easy (square angles), MDF \ Plywood construction, with a bullet proof result design so that you dont get dissapointed with your efforts vs results Your first prosposal looks fine to me. Regards |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yeah.
I am building a small desktop speaker at the moment. Building it in 15mm (i think) oak and it is going to be a Peerless 830986 in it. I've started building the boxes and i must say it isn't the very easiest thing i've done, it's a litte bit warped (right word?), but hope it's gonna solve itself when i am gluing them together. Byggtråd - 3" desktophögtalare - Minhembio forum But the http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...9-NBVR-map.pdf looks pretty easy to build. But, i've talked to this guy from Minhembio and i think i should build a cheaper speaker since it's the first time. Practice on cheap and simple things and move up to more difficult things when i got more skills. Totalcost around 120-150$ or so. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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I am 16 years of age, and I'll be the first to say - this forum is the right place to be.
I find the full range with bass driver route is a good one. I use a fairly cheap (£15) 3" full range speaker, with a pair of bass drivers for each side. The sound is very good, and the whole project cost me £150, so maybe 200 euros. What kind of amplifier do you have? If you want to build one, look at 41hz.com, because they sell very good amplifier kits, pretty cheap. I built the amp6B, which gives 15w per channel (enough for parties, with efficient speakers), because it's one of the easiest ones to build. Chris
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"Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html
Last edited by chris661; 27th March 2010 at 05:16 PM. Reason: Typos.... |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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I have a Harman Kardon HK 3490 amplifier, enough for any speaker that i am going to build.
I'd like to stick to one speaker, i don't feel for making filters and all that stuff. And, i want to build something unusual but still simple. And it has to be pretty cheap. |
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#6 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Suzy Chang is a pretty logical step up from your current project. Using plywood should be more forgiving than using solid oak...
Suzy can use Fostex FE103 or FE107 dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Thurso, Quebec, Canada
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Quote:
Well I dont think dry non-resinous wood will straight itself up. When working with hardwood you need big driyed pieces that you must run in rectifyers (un planneur et une dégauchisseuse- french words). After that, and only after that you can start working with your parts knowing that you are 90° edges everywhere and flat. That is why I'v suggested MDF as a start. You can then apply a laminated hardwood sheet after if you like. Regards, Marc Last edited by trd1587; 27th March 2010 at 05:28 PM. Reason: bad english, very bad... |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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Well, the speakers for Suzy Chang will cost me around 1500 swedish crones, around 170$ or so. And the material for the boxes will also cost pretty much, so it wont be as cheap as i would like it. Ofcourse i could wait a few months for more money but, it is expensive.
But, it seems to be a good speaker and so on. But which is best, FE103 or FE107? The price difference isn't very much. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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Well, yes. The oak was hard to work with but i think it will solve itself either by glueing or sealing with something.
The Fostex FE107e was around 400 swedish crones cheaper on Europe-Audio than on Hi-Fi Kit. With VAT and shipping it should be atleast 300 crones cheaper. So Suzy Chang might be an option... |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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I've been thinking about this project. It seems like i will build The Metronome. It's an "easy" box to build, my father will help me. But, so for the speaker...
I think the Fostex wont fit me very well. As far as i know i wont be able to play louder than normal listening volume with it and it can be very hard to make it sound right and playing it in can take many hundred hours. So, what other full-range speakers can i use in The Metronome? Something that costs maybe 30-40$ each? |
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