Pioneer B20 in 1.3cuFt box, nice - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 21st March 2010, 07:49 PM   #11
2litre is offline 2litre  United States
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You're correct infinia, it's the full range B20 (B20FU20-51FW) that is prefered.
Its response starts dropping off around 12kHz though and that's why many have ended up adding a helper tweeter.

R/
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Old 21st March 2010, 08:29 PM   #12
infinia is offline infinia  United States
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So this one without a whizzer may be better for LF bass and thus requires slightly different box?
With added tweeter crossed in at 3KHz or so requires a filter on the B20 becoming more or less a 2 way design for best integration.
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Last edited by infinia; 21st March 2010 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 16th November 2010, 02:37 AM   #13
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Default First project for a noob?

I've been toying with the idea of building a box like this as a first project, and have some different dimensions in order to get them back into corners, but with the driver high enough to clear end tables. With PE carrying these at $19 each, it sounds like a good starter project, anyway.

First off, will they be okay 3-5 inches from the corners?

Second, will these dimensions work?
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Old 16th November 2010, 03:15 AM   #14
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>>> First off, will they be okay 3-5 inches from the corners?

>>> Second, will these dimensions work?

Yes and yes! Looks good. Some are playing with porting ideas that may enhance bass response but that doesn't mean you can't build what you have there without getting great results. Which tweeter are you using the little dayton press fit? If you are i will get a pair too and play.
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Old 16th November 2010, 03:18 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cascadie View Post
will these dimensions work?
The box aspect ratio is sufficiently far from a cube that it will have some half-wave TL characteristics (tuned to ~170 Hz if my calcs are correct)

dave
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Old 16th November 2010, 04:02 AM   #16
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Quote:
Which tweeter are you using the little dayton press fit? If you are i will get a pair too and play.
Yes, I'm using the Dayton ND16FA-6 with the 2.0 uF cap, and if I'm reading this right, I'll need an L-pad to go with that?

Quote:
Some are playing with porting ideas that may enhance bass response...
I actually would like that, but have NO CLUE about the design of such things. Here's the extent of how new to this I am: I've never even thought of building my own speakers until I recently started purchasing 1970s audio gear. I loved all my old gear back in the day and still have the JBL 4311s I bought in high school, but started listening to them more critically, and just wasn't liking what I heard. Other than the bass. I actually like the "sound" of them, but there is very limited soundstage, if I have the term correct. They are also hard to get up high enough to listen to, yet look unobtrusive in the living room.

I have a couple of problems though. I have pretty severe tinitus, which is so loud that I can hear it at highway speeds with the windows down. This is combined with a large dropout in my hearing from the high midrange and trebles (which I why I'm heading straight for a tweeter in the package). So, I like to listen on the loud side to get over my built-in noise floor. I don't have any gear for measuring, but I'd say I listen at a level where it would be quite hard to communicate with someone else in the room, 100-105 dB or more?

I also have a ton of spare time (believe me it IS a problem), and just enough money to put a little aside for a pair of economy speakers (and an old component now and then).

I loved Jeff's description of this driver in the cabinets he experimented with, and decided to give it a try. I was considering the Frugal Horn Mk3's but figured these would fit better in my corners and it wins in terms of frugality as well, especially as a first project.
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Old 17th November 2010, 07:39 PM   #17
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Parts ordered!

Is the WIN ISD beta a decent source to calculate the port for this project?

Kurt
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Old 18th November 2010, 02:47 AM   #18
GM is offline GM  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
....it will have some half-wave TL characteristics.......
Good call, optimized driver location ~15-1/8" down.

GM
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Old 18th November 2010, 02:55 AM   #19
GM is offline GM  United States
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Parts ordered!

Is the WIN ISD beta a decent source to calculate the port for this project?

Kurt
Better to use WinISD Pro alpha or Unibox for basic cube or rectangular cabs and programs like Hornresp, AkAbak, MJK's MathCad software, etc. that can model high aspect ratio cabs otherwise the vent will be too long and in some cases too small in area, mis-tuning the cab.

GM
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Old 18th November 2010, 02:56 AM   #20
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I was considering the Frugal Horn Mk3
Hard to put an 8" driver in a box 5" wide

dave
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