Build Thread K-Slot Rear Loaded Horn for Tangband W8-1772

[zobsky]

Not much to report from this weekend, as other chores beckoned.

Member kenpeter and I did get together and rip all the interior boards to the same width (11.75") . now, it's mostly a matter of gluing them onto the side.

I plan to use yellow glue to glue the boards onto one side and caulk to ensure airtightness.

When clamping the cabinet shut, I won't have the luxury of being able to caulk so expanding polyurethane glue (PL brand) will be used .

[zobsky]

boring build pic. I decided to start outside and build inwards, the opposite of the recommended procedure, as I prefer to get the corners solid first. On a more complex horn build, I might start from the insides, but not for this.

I used a home made cross cut sled for the cuts and cut 2 x pieces per cut so for every piece you see assembled on this cabinet, I've already completed the cuts for the other cab.

[zobsky]

Cross cut sled and a picture of the arauco plyies

[rjbond3rd]

Zobsky, this is a really cool build. Thank you for posting (and in great detail). This design is said to make a lot of thump. I envy you!

[chuyler1]

Nice sled jig! I may make one of those for my next build because I can never get those cuts straight. I lucked out when I built the uFonkens because all the cuts could be done with my mitre saw.

[zobsky]

FWIW, I use oak runners underneath the sled. They tended to stick to the slots on the table until I waxed them.

[kenpeter]

What was not mentioned, was that we lost about 0.75 an inch of width on all those
boards before we finally got them straight. A saw can't cut the other side straight
unless ref side against the fence is straight, got wobblycroOked-er-er every pass!!!

We eventually clamped a very eyeball straight edge to the board, and ran a router
down that template. Then very carefully ripped each to the same width on the saw.
This time using a feather to keep the clean edges pressed firmly against the fence.

That same wax residue (for the sled) in the slot kept making the feather pop loose
and/or slide forward into the blade... and the fence kept moving off its set adjust.
So a lot of extra clamps were abused to hold all that junk that wouldn't stay put.

Was not as Martha Stuart easy as the aftershot pictures would have you believe.
No essential limbs were lost, but not for the lack of tryin.

[kenpeter]

Originally Posted by zobsky

Plies are void free.

Yeah, we shaved away thin strips of the edge getting everything even.
Those strips did not fall apart. It was almost voidless, like a solid strip
of veneer, except obviously several smaller strips joined together, and
some across the grain. Actually weird that ply shaving held together so
well. Somebody must have busted out the good glue on that day.

Not like my last K15. Layers still peeling apart, except a few soft spots
where Shellac penetrated extra deep.

[zobsky]

Originally Posted by kenpeter

What was not mentioned, was that we lost about 0.75 an inch of width on all those
boards before we finally got them straight. A saw can't cut the other side straight
unless ref side against the fence is straight, got wobblycroOked-er-er every pass!!!

We eventually clamped a very eyeball straight edge to the board, and ran a router
down that template. Then very carefully ripped each to the same width on the saw.
This time using a feather to keep the clean edges pressed firmly against the fence.

That same wax residue (for the sled) in the slot kept making the feather pop loose
and/or slide forward into the blade... and the fence kept moving off its set adjust.
So a lot of extra clamps were abused to hold all that junk that wouldn't stay put.

Was not as Martha Stuart easy as the aftershot pictures would have you believe.
No essential limbs were lost, but not for the lack of tryin.

Yeah, but that was the ripping part. There's only so much we can accomplish with a portable table saw.

The cross cutting went pretty smoothly.

[zobsky]

2nd cabinet glued up to the same point as the first