help me decide

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I want to build a full range speaker for a listening room. So far I've found 2 different speakers I'm interested in. The Alpair 12 or the fostex FE168E. This will be the first time building a full range speaker. If anyone can think of another speaker in the same price range let me know. And any first hand experiance with either one of these speaker, tell me your impressions of them. My plan is to get a 8 or so watt tube amp that I found and a pre amp(emotiva perhaps). I already have a nice ht using b&w speaker just want something when the wife is watching her general hospital I can go and relax listening to some music.Trying to say somewhere between 1000 to 1500 $ for everything.
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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Mr Vag...

The 2 drivers you have short listed couldn't be more different... The 168 is more efficient than the A12, with 8 watts you might find yourself a bit dynamically limited with the A12, but at moderate level s(like what i usually listen to) you'd be fine. The Fostex really wants to be in a horn (A166 is one of the best choices), the A12 is a bit more versatile but a bit tricky. It is new enuff that cabinet designs are still coming.

dave
 
The 1000 to 1500 is for the amp, pre amp, speakers and some nice wood to make the cabinets.

is the amp diy too?.I have build some speakers and crossover too but, trust me it is not just get an enclosure and stick the driver in. a lot math for that.I would not build speakers again.I did two way and three way speakers using first order, second order, third order crossovers.and also using zobel network (impedance compensator).I ended up with a lot of headaches.( I am not good in math lol).
 
Mr Vag...

The 2 drivers you have short listed couldn't be more different... The 168 is more efficient than the A12, with 8 watts you might find yourself a bit dynamically limited with the A12, but at moderate level s(like what i usually listen to) you'd be fine. The Fostex really wants to be in a horn (A166 is one of the best choices), the A12 is a bit more versatile but a bit tricky. It is new enuff that cabinet designs are still coming.

dave
If I went with the fostex I would use the recomended eclosure they have on the website. It is a horn. I don't crank my speaker when I listen to them so 8 watts of tube power per channel should be loud enough for me. The cabinet for the a12 is one of your as long as your the planet 10 plans I seen on marks site.
 
is the amp diy too?.I have build some speakers and crossover too but, trust me it is not just get an enclosure and stick the driver in. a lot math for that.I would not build speakers again.I did two way and three way speakers using first order, second order, third order crossovers.and also using zobel network (impedance compensator).I ended up with a lot of headaches.( I am not good in math lol).

Yes the amp is a diy this one.Elekit TU-879S Stereo Tube Amplifier Kit I wont need a crossover for the fullrange. The enclosure isn't a problem to build I've been doing wood work for awhile now, and the amp is diy but it is set up so you can really mess it up. Heres the plans for the fostex. I just have to convert the metric over to standard mesurements, damn americans last peopl still using standard lol. https://www.madisound.com/pdf/fostexcabs/168ez_enclrev.pdf
 
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Mr Vag...

The 2 drivers you have short listed couldn't be more different... The 168 is more efficient than the A12, with 8 watts you might find yourself a bit dynamically limited with the A12, but at moderate level s(like what i usually listen to) you'd be fine. The Fostex really wants to be in a horn (A166 is one of the best choices), the A12 is a bit more versatile but a bit tricky. It is new enuff that cabinet designs are still coming.

dave
How about sound difference between the two.
 
Yes the amp is a diy this one.Elekit TU-879S Stereo Tube Amplifier Kit I wont need a crossover for the fullrange. The enclosure isn't a problem to build I've been doing wood work for awhile now, and the amp is diy but it is set up so you can really mess it up. Heres the plans for the fostex. I just have to convert the metric over to standard mesurements, damn americans last peopl still using standard lol. https://www.madisound.com/pdf/fostexcabs/168ez_enclrev.pdf

it is more than wood work!!!
Do you know if your driver is suitable for port or sealed?
are you going to build it ported or vented and if it is ported what kind of port are you using length and width.
will you use grill on your speakers "diffraction distortion can accured" if you use just regular speaker grill.
how are you going to deal with internal cabinet resonances? it is not just adding foam or filling inside cabinets.
Do you know the correct cubit foot for you drivers?
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
I would not build speakers again.I did two way and three way speakers using first order, second order, third order crossovers.and also using zobel network (impedance compensator).I ended up with a lot of headaches.( I am not good in math lol).

Crossovers are a pain. Here on the Fullrange forum we don't usually need any...

dave
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
If I went with the fostex I would use the recomended eclosure they have on the website. It is a horn. I don't crank my speaker when I listen to them so 8 watts of tube power per channel should be loud enough for me. The cabinet for the a12 is one of your as long as your the planet 10 plans I seen on marks site.

Many of the Fostex recommended boxes are not very good, and none of them compare to the better designs out there. FE168eS, IMHO, goes best in Austin A166, or if you can tolerate the height, Hiro,

layertoneA166-pr.jpg


A166 is a harder build than the Fostex factory horn. Hiro isn't.

The A12 plans on the Mark Audio site are actually Scottmoose's, i just did the drawings. The Pensil12 is a pretty simple build, My A12 design is still percolating. I have some aesthetics issues to work out, It will be another in the miniOnken series.

dave
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
How about sound difference between the two.

I haven't listened to either extensively so i have to make an educated guess based on how the families sound. The Fostex will be a bit edgier, with more dynamics (largely because it is more efficient, and you have limited power). The A12 will be smoother, less forward with more extended top.

The A12 extends lower, but in a good horn the FE168 will have that effortless horn bottom end.

Both get really good press from those that own them. You won't make a mistake choosing either, they'll just be different.

dave
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
it is more than wood work!!!
Do you know if your driver is suitable for port or sealed?
are you going to build it ported or vented and if it is ported what kind of port are you using length and width.
will you use grill on your speakers "diffraction distortion can accured" if you use just regular speaker grill.
how are you going to deal with internal cabinet resonances? it is not just adding foam or filling inside cabinets.
Do you know the correct cubit foot for you drivers?

Bigvag has none of those issues. He has wisely choosen, as is smart for anyone's 1st speaker project, to build an already proven design.

dave
 
Many of the Fostex recommended boxes are not very good, and none of them compare to the better designs out there. FE168eS, IMHO, goes best in Austin A166, or if you can tolerate the height, Hiro,

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


A166 is a harder build than the Fostex factory horn. Hiro isn't.

The A12 plans on the Mark Audio site are actually Scottmoose's, i just did the drawings. The Pensil12 is a pretty simple build, My A12 design is still percolating. I have some aesthetics issues to work out, It will be another in the miniOnken series.

dave
Yeah I said I was good at wood but that might be alittle much. I may wait until I see your design for the a12.
 
it is more than wood work!!!
Do you know if your driver is suitable for port or sealed?
are you going to build it ported or vented and if it is ported what kind of port are you using length and width.
will you use grill on your speakers "diffraction distortion can accured" if you use just regular speaker grill.
how are you going to deal with internal cabinet resonances? it is not just adding foam or filling inside cabinets.
Do you know the correct cubit foot for you drivers?
The driver already has plans for a enclosure so I don't need to do any calculations. No crossover is needed as it a fullrange speaker, I may put a filter on it just to cut off the lower hz so I don't over extend them. No I'm not planning on putting a grill cover on them. As for the ressonance I'm going with the plan so it tells me where to put the filling.
 
The driver already has plans for a enclosure so I don't need to do any calculations. No crossover is needed as it a fullrange speaker, I may put a filter on it just to cut off the lower hz so I don't over extend them. No I'm not planning on putting a grill cover on them. As for the ressonance I'm going with the plan so it tells me where to put the filling.

Well, I guess you have everything covered and checked. Go ahead and start your project.Do not forget to post pictures when you are done. Good luck.;)
 
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