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#1 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: UK, bristol
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I want to make some bookshelf speakers for my office/dining room. So they should be good for all day close range listening at my PC, but also able to take a bit of volume when I'm not at the PC.
This from one of the fonken threads interested me. Quote:
So I welcome your opinions on choice of driver (cheap shipping to UK preffered eg up to about $250 for the pair shipped). And how many and size of port. I've just been listening to my FR125s in sealed 7l with the subs turned off, and they sound good to me, but I guess the aim should be more bass from a smaller driver. I like the idea of the front firing ports, because the sphere is great for pointing in whatever direction you like, and I won't have to worry about the port's close relationship with the wall. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: UK, bristol
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Oh yes, the driver MUST have a circular frame for aesthetic reasons.
picture added for effect. |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
![]() http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...odic-plans.pdf But I'd be careful trying to maximize bass response of the FR125s in a "conventional" vented (BR) enclosure - you'll likely find its characteristics a X-max limit rather disquieting.
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you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: UK, bristol
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Any good threads on 'resistively vented' ? I suppose lots of holes around the back will be fine, and a lot easier to do.
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#5 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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The circle of holes as a port can be seen in the literature going back a looonnnggg ways.
I doubt you'll get lower bass out of a small driver than an FR125. 9-10 litre is larger than i'd be comfortable with... of the many FR125 boxes we built, my favorite were the 4.5 litre boxes Chris posted a picture of. Aperiodic damping is still as much an art as a science. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: UK, bristol
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Note: I'm not planning to de-commision my FR125s, so driver choice is OPEN.
CHR-70 seems popular and I spotted this thread "Can CHR-70 work in a tall MilliSize (DeciSize?) Onken" which is 9 or 10litre. Dave, any chance you could estimate me a size for my ports (for a CHR-70)? edit: By estimate you could just let me know the area and length of the 6 ports in the above design, (or is that the commercially sensitive bit?). Last edited by jimbo1968; 17th February 2010 at 09:28 PM. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Canberra, Australia
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What about using a passive radiator instead of ports?
Cheers, Alex
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EnABL: block size calculator v2.0 - Listening impressions & techniques - EnABL kit Other: 35 second tune-up (WAV file - 2.95MB) - Groundside electrons |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: UK, bristol
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Think I'll try CHR-70 in 12l wooden salad bowls, tuned to 50Hz.
Then maybe experiment with stuffing in the ports. |
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#9 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Yes. Because of the Danish licence.
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: UK, bristol
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Dave, I'm not sure which bits of the Art of Fonken design have been posted (I'm trying to find all the relevant posts). But maybe I could ask a few questions here:
Which of the curves shown would you start with ? Do you use the modelled area and length and the only difference is that the ports are restrictive? Or do you have tweaking rules such as 20% longer or 15% less area or something like that? |
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