Sorry if this question has been asked before.
Got my Sachiko up and running. Wanted to get hours on the driver, and see what the break in process was going to look like.
I installed 2 inches of dacron on the compression chamber bottom, top, and the "rear" wall. Nothing in the throat.
The sound is warm and full, but still a bit boxy at times. I only have a dozen hours on the drivers.
I haven't read what others have done regarding dampening material, and amounts. I would like to shorten the learning curve on this, and gather the experience from others who have gone before me.
What are your recommendations and experiences?
Regards
Mister Pig
Got my Sachiko up and running. Wanted to get hours on the driver, and see what the break in process was going to look like.
I installed 2 inches of dacron on the compression chamber bottom, top, and the "rear" wall. Nothing in the throat.
The sound is warm and full, but still a bit boxy at times. I only have a dozen hours on the drivers.
I haven't read what others have done regarding dampening material, and amounts. I would like to shorten the learning curve on this, and gather the experience from others who have gone before me.
What are your recommendations and experiences?
Regards
Mister Pig
Amplifier & wire used?
Basically, wait until you're happy the suspension etc. on the 206 has loosened up (about a hundred hours in a cabinet of this type), see what gives at that point, and adjust to suit your own situation, which will be different to everyone elses. If you've still got a little too much gain, add a touch extra in the throat.
Basically, wait until you're happy the suspension etc. on the 206 has loosened up (about a hundred hours in a cabinet of this type), see what gives at that point, and adjust to suit your own situation, which will be different to everyone elses. If you've still got a little too much gain, add a touch extra in the throat.
Wiring is 12 gauge Ohno Continuous Cast Copper, sourced from Monarchy Audio. Had planned on using some Cardas SE 15, but ordered too short an amount, and need to place another order for some more. Actually the Ohno wire is quite good, and the price Monarchy has on it is extremely reasonable.
Amplifier at the moment is an Elekit TU-879S with VCAPs at the coupling cap position, and a Mundorf power supply capacitor. Output tubes are RCA 6L5GC Blackplates, good for 6 wpc. Pre driver is a Telefunken 12AX7.
This may not be my final choice of amplifier for the Sachiko, but it seems to be a fairly good match so far. I plan on experimenting with some 2A3 based amps before making a choice.
Well I will wait through the break in period, which really isn't that bad....100 hours. I have seen worse.
Funny there is very little info on dampening materials and amounts for the Sachiko. This, and internal wiring are topics that should be addressed in a sticky or something like that.
Regards
Mister Pig
Amplifier at the moment is an Elekit TU-879S with VCAPs at the coupling cap position, and a Mundorf power supply capacitor. Output tubes are RCA 6L5GC Blackplates, good for 6 wpc. Pre driver is a Telefunken 12AX7.
This may not be my final choice of amplifier for the Sachiko, but it seems to be a fairly good match so far. I plan on experimenting with some 2A3 based amps before making a choice.
Well I will wait through the break in period, which really isn't that bad....100 hours. I have seen worse.
Funny there is very little info on dampening materials and amounts for the Sachiko. This, and internal wiring are topics that should be addressed in a sticky or something like that.
Regards
Mister Pig
Not funny at all, & no, it shouldn't. As I mentioned above, every situation is different, ergo, damping is something for each individual to tailor to their own specific situation / taste / requirements. What works for one may not be appropriate for someone else. Think positive; at least you didn't have to design it. I doubt tweaking the damping to suit yourself will be too much of a strain.
DF is likely to be fairly low with that amp, so it's less affected by the electrical properties of the main speaker wire. Internal wire should be pretty much a non-issue, given the short lengths involved, unless you do something really extreme, like try to use 50AWG magnet wire or something equally daft.
DF is likely to be fairly low with that amp, so it's less affected by the electrical properties of the main speaker wire. Internal wire should be pretty much a non-issue, given the short lengths involved, unless you do something really extreme, like try to use 50AWG magnet wire or something equally daft.
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