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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Today I recieved my jx92s's.
The boxes are built, ML TQWT's. So, I started thinking about the small stuff one never really considers. Connectors, internal wiring and such. How much power can one realistically expect the driver to handle/need? How many Amperes (Current) should I use when doing the math for the cables? I am thinking about Multiple braided solid core silver wires with a combined 16AWG. The rating would be 12A for the internal cables. Just enough, too little or more than enough? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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For the wire: Speaker Wire -note it's for copper; silver you can get away with a slightly thinner gauge. 16ga internally should be perfectly sufficient.
I wouldn't be especially concerned about the driver's power-rating. Nominally it's 50w continuous or 100w music, but you'll hear the driver start to break up well before you fry the VC etc. (unless you have zero mechanical sympathy). Just use some common sense & don't expect it to shift air in the LF like an 18in woofer. Make sure your connections are good; they generally cause more trouble than wire ever has. The JX92S is not the most reticent of drivers in the higher frequencies, so, at the risk of lending credence to quackery, given that silver (esp. when coated with teflon) is often regarded as sounding bright, you might want to rethink that. Alternatively, carry on, & use something like 8ga mono-runs of copper for the main speaker cable if you're feeling excessive, or unzip some 10ga (or whatever) zip cord & use that if you're feeling under-endowed in the wallet department. The added inductance will take the HF down. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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That does come a little as a surprise to me I must admit?
Maybe my memory is playing tricks on me but I remembered reading something about the jx92s a while back. I thought it was supposed to be a little soft on top and rolling off somewhat at higher frequencies, especially when you look at the diagrams. On axis the curve measures straight but off axis it falls off at higher frequencies. Anywho... I can always change if i does become "bright". I'm happy that 16AWG seams sufficient. P=UI if I recal corectly? P=50W I=U/R -> U=IR P=I^2R I=sqrt(P/R) = sqrt(50/5)=sqrt(10)=3.15A Am I doing this correctly? |
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#4 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Bright as in elevated HF might not be the right phrase. I know i did send my JX92 packing because of something in the top end that i found particularily not to my liking. Anything that exacerbates that characteristic is probably not a good idea.
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chinook Country.Alberta
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maybe it's the internal (or rather "external") wire we used on the OB. Using the tube amps tamed the top end. Using a HT piece aggravates the top end a bit...but not to the point of being completely offensive. Anyways, it's only home theater and my ears are shot...
![]() I never get too concerned with power ratings. Most folks will turn the volume down way before approaching the continuous rating...unless they are asking way too much of a small driver in a large room. Limiting the frequencies being fed to the Jordans allows them to take a lot more power without break up, just use a sub or two to fill in from about 300Hz down. Too little power usually results in folks cranking the volume up, resulting in amp clipping---which will burn the voice coil(s).
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stew ☮ -"A sane man in an insane world appears insane." |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Hi Stew, how are the "Spirits of Orion"? Do they have the JX92S now?
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Scottmoose>I finally managed to read the article you linked. It was one of the most well written articles on audio cables I've come across Imho. It does make you stop and think.
Nelson Pass has writen one as well and the conclusion is very similar if I recall things correctly. The Harman co. wrote a piece on psychoacoustics as well I think. The visual impact WILL influence your choice no matter what you think. The #1 concearn is wiregauge. #16AWG is ok and that is what matters. According to the articles it's doubtful one will hear the difference in cables especially short ones. So Silver or Copper shouldn't make any difference. Ok, I can live with that. I'm usually a pratical kind of person and don't subscribe much to the snake oil industry. However there is one important factor we must not forget. #1 Cooless. ![]() Silver wiring is cool and exotic. It makes for great conversation and looks good if you show it off. Plus knowing you got the best stuff will give you a warm and fuzzy feeling even if you can't tell the difference in sound. (You probaby will tell a difference by just knowing it's there...) #2 Tinkering is fun and making your own exotic cables is fun. If for no other reason than comparisson to cheaper versions. Just for the fun of it. ![]() But I'm going way OT here. The important thing is that you guys think I'll be ok with 16AWG wiring in the speaker. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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It should be good -Roger Russell was Director of Acoustic Design / Research for McKintosh for about 2 decades. Nice chap too. Resistance is the major concern; that said, wire inductance & capacitance can & do have some effect; if the former is high, the HF is likely to roll off, while if the latter is high, you might get some HF lift through overshoot. You'll be doing (very
The JX92S is best listened to off-axis IMO; on axis it does have some peaking, about +6dB at 12KHz, give or take, & is ~4dB up at around 15KHz, per the published graph. It's not alone in that; most wide-band drivers have some HF lift through the 8KHz - 15KHz region, which is why I would personally avoid using any wire known for potentially lively HF (usually caused by high capacitance) with them. YMMV as ever of course. Last edited by Scottmoose; 5th January 2010 at 12:52 PM. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Maine
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Really? I can roll off my highs a bit if I use fat wire? That could be useful because my current system is a tad bright. That would be cheaper than buying tube gear.
__________________
I must confess my favorite music is that made by the Rolls Royce Merlin. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
A copy of Nelson's paper can be found here: http://documents.jordan-usa.com/Famo...elson-Pass.pdf Just a dusting of fact from an EE. Last edited by mdikovics; 6th January 2010 at 01:21 AM. |
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