New Build: Coniston^2 dual driver double mouth MBVR - Page 3 - diyAudio
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Old 3rd February 2010, 05:32 PM   #21
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thank you all guys. i think i need a jasper jig now
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Old 5th February 2010, 01:23 AM   #22
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Alright guys; I finished them up earlier today! The best part is, I'm using the drivers from the Thirlmere bipole design I'd build earlier with the EL70's so they've been properly broken in and already sound VERY nice before going into the new cabinets.

I lined two walls in the enclosures with felt; the walls behind each driver. I normally use carpet tape to mount the dampening but today I realized my staple gun will fit through the holes for the EL70...excellent. Much easier and I wont ever fear of the dampening falling off again. Much quicker too

Right off, I could tell these were VERY efficient. I'd built the Lotus BVR^2 design with the CHR70's and I think this blow them out of the water in terms of efficiency. I didn't get a chance to crank them today but I had them about 1/3 on my Sonic Impact amp and they were fairly loud already.

I had the side driver facing the inside. I feel like this is the best way. My room is 12x12.5 feet and I think it's a bit small for these towers. The sound stage is VERY nice and placement is excellent. I do believe that placing them farther apart than I had them (about 8feet as I had them) would be even better. I'll test them with the side drivers on the outside as well.

Bass response in my room was TOO much. I actually checked my media player because I thought I had the low end EQ pushed up a touch; only to find it was dead flat! I think these need a bit of a larger room to even out the bottom end. However, don't let me kid you; it wasn't really a bad thing. I'll have fun with it for sure and I can always EQ down in a small room. These will be PERFECT for slightly larger rooms and listening spaces.

I only had about 15 minutes to play today before I had to go but I plan to do MUCH more playing tomorrow

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 5th February 2010, 01:32 AM   #23
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those are simply beutiful!

so do you add all the dampening material after they are already closed? do you have any pic of the stuffing process?

how much gain in efficency is there with two drivers?
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Old 5th February 2010, 02:12 AM   #24
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Yes, I dampened them when they were already closed up. Otherwise the paint would have gotten on the dampening on the inside and I'm not sure how that would affect them but I didn't want to find out.
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Old 5th February 2010, 02:32 AM   #25
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Green masking tape... Chris does it all the time.

And i'm guessing you didn't install the holey brace?

dave
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Old 5th February 2010, 05:39 AM   #26
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Masking tape really holds? I would have never thought...

No brace in these.
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Old 5th February 2010, 06:25 AM   #27
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Time to go out and buy a mechanics stethescope.

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Old 5th February 2010, 09:04 AM   #28
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Glad you like them so far; if you can get some more damping in there you should find they tighten up a bit (they're voiced for larger spaces than Lotus), although particularly with MDF, some chamber bracing is advisible.
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Old 5th February 2010, 06:47 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by italynstylion View Post
Masking tape really holds? I would have never thought...

No brace in these.
Damping material is applied prior to attaching last panel with adhesive of your choice - after switching to the 1/2" Ultratouch insulation, I was able to switch to white PVA rather than hot glue.

Since I generally rebate my drivers for flush mounting, the masking tape is used to cover the recessed cut-out; in other words it's adhered to the rebated flange margin, and trimmed with a utility knife. You could probably to the same thing with surface mounted drivers - just apply tape wider than the driver cut-out and temporarily mount the driver(s) backwards for trimming template.

Enough coats of solvent based sprayed lacquer can cause it peal around the edges, but will usually protect the inside of the box from overspray


and definitely try bracing on your next iteration(s) - that is unless you're not planning on any further builds
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Old 5th February 2010, 07:19 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
Damping material is applied prior to attaching last panel with adhesive of your choice - after switching to the 1/2" Ultratouch insulation, I was able to switch to white PVA rather than hot glue.

Since I generally rebate my drivers for flush mounting, the masking tape is used to cover the recessed cut-out; in other words it's adhered to the rebated flange margin, and trimmed with a utility knife. You could probably to the same thing with surface mounted drivers - just apply tape wider than the driver cut-out and temporarily mount the driver(s) backwards for trimming template.

Enough coats of solvent based sprayed lacquer can cause it peal around the edges, but will usually protect the inside of the box from overspray


and definitely try bracing on your next iteration(s) - that is unless you're not planning on any further builds
Thanks for the tips!

I usually build the first "trial" without the bracing. Subsequent versions are braced if the trial versions show a need.



I'm actually listening to them right now. Last week my friend sent me a song by Infected Mushroom called Avrats. It's a bit of an electronic song but has some VERY real sounds in it. Reminds me of playing Donkey Kong as a kid. There is this wild little "spring" sound in the song that is possibly the most real sound I've ever heard come through a transducer. I'm loving these so far!

Unfortunately this means I'll have to build myself a set. I'm running out of space...
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