Pragmatic Full Range

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Hello, I am new to DIY speakers and I would appreciate your advices.

I am looking for an easy and affordable first build. I've been seduced by the simplicity of Fostex drivers. By all that I read, I would be inclined to build either a BIB or bass reflex.

I listen to Techno 40%, Classic 30%, Anything else 30%.

I want to put the speakers on my old Pioneer SA-9900 110W/ch. The room size is 10 feet high, 12 wide x 30 feet long.

I fear I might blow any of the 4" Fostex. I can "attenuate" the output of my Pioneer with the -30db switch in front but i don't trust the wife or kids...:rolleyes:

Which full range speaker / enclosure plan do you recommend?
 
I had concern about blowing the Fostex but I didn't grasp the theory of a good pair of speaker that could worsen my setup; and that a cheaper pair would "hide" my Pioneer weaknesses...:eek:

Anyway I liked the Fostex for their quality but mainly because having the plan to design the enclosure were provided, tested and proven.

So since Fostex seems overkill, I am open to any other full range driver / enclosure suggestions that would fit nice with this amp.
 
A 3-4" speaker is not going to do a very good job on techno. I would either pair it with a subwoofer (actively crossed), or go for a larger driver.

Another question I would have is whether you think this is a one-time thing or the start of a hobby? If this is the start of a speaker-building hobby for you, then a simple, cheap fostex build is just the thing to get your feet wet.

It doesn't matter much if they are just right for your music preference or your existing equipment, you will get a feel for what full-range speakers do well and you'll have a better idea what you want for your next build.
 
I agree with dave above that the fostex will not match up well with the pioneer solid state amp you have. Having not heard the Mark Audio drivers (i'm sure they are great based on what many have said and the pictures i have seen of their build quality) but a small driver may not be best suited for your room size. Without sounding like a broken record, i'd recommend the Pioneer B20 plus a super tweeter in a large bass reflex box.

http://www.zillaaudio.com/pioneerb20-piezo.htm

The box can be made to nearly any reasonable dimensions and an optimal port size can be determined. I even like the way it sounds sealed but think in your room it would be better to go ported. You can even consider the Half Chang speaker using the Pioneer B20 and upgrade later to a Fostex 207e if you get bitten by the upgrade bug... and upgrade your amp, cable, cd/dvd player, etc...

Godzilla
 
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frugal-phile™
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Anyway I liked the Fostex for their quality but mainly because having the plan to design the enclosure were provided, tested and proven.

As long as you aren't talking about the Fostex Factory plans which have been proven more often than not to be all that good.

Almsot any driver recommended here has boxes designed for it.... often it is the case that the hardest part is to pick one of many.

dave
 
frugal-phile™
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The B20 is certainly a good way to get your feet wet. There are a couple double driver CHR-70 or EL70 boxes that would likely do just fine in the techno dept but with much more finesse than the Pioneer (althou at a higher cost too). I am still quote amazed at how much LF energy these can generate.

dave
 
Since you were concerned you might blow the smaller fostex drivers....

I feel it necessary to point out that if you like high volume on your system, Jes, any fullrange driver with an untreated paper cone will 'peel the flesh from your inner ear' especially with techno. I advise untreated paper cones for low volume use only as they become harsh noise machines above that. That is why I like Gurley's advice for Mark Audio.
 
Get your feet wet? Try the Fostex FE103E back loaded horn (challenging first build) but install an MCM 5 1/4" woofer (p/n 55-1205). Impressive bass from a $12 driver although NOT to be used at ear splitting levels. Seems to compliment two-ways lacking that lower end. Probably could use a tweeter to sweeten it up as a stand alone unit.

I'm currently running a couple of these cabs with a two-way center (~thick walled 5 gallon plastic industrial cleaning fluid jug with a 4 1/2 FR Pioneer 'bass' coupled with a recycled cross-over and tweeter).

I'd place the cost at less then $70 total investment.

I've got to admit: there are nights (especially with jazz and vocals at lower to medium volume levels) that this set up is sweeter on the ears then my JBL 4425's seem to be.
 
frugal-phile™
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Here is a sim of that double BR cabinet. The bump is a lot bigger than i like to see, but it is nice & smooth. Some may like it. And if you don't like, you can load some fluff or open cel foam in the port to make it aperiodic.

dave
 

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I suspect it (Mark's twin-unit small box) is pitched at the Japanese / Far Eastern listener, where size & tone tend to take precidence over other considerations, & often small spaces, lowish SPLs & thin apartment walls combine to sluck away the midbass, so something of a lift can often be helpful. Conjecture on my part of course.
 
Thanks to your guidance and my reading, I am making the DIY plunge. My first DIY speakers will be the microtower from Planet10 Hi-Fi (by Dave) with one the Mark Audio CHR-70 on on front the second on the back of the tower.

http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/downloads/microTower-maps-150909.pdf

I am thrilled!

Confirm that from your experience this is the best compromise for a 8 ohms full range speaker for my old pioneer amplifier, and this plan is simple and forgiving enough so my first experiment should exceed my old Yamaha NS-C286 speakers performance and enjoyment. :)
 
So far I have my panel cut. They are from 15mm Baltic Birch. I had the panel cut by a friend that has a big table saw since I have few tools and experience with woodworking...so I need you advices:

1- I am ready to make the 4in holes for the CHR-70. To fit it flush, I need to cut a bevel on the hole to 4 7/8" but only ¼" deep. I have a rotating bit tool. Do you agree that the best way to make this bevel is for me to buy a new bit with a small bearing at the bottom that would follow my 4" hole?

2- How much damping material should I put inside the case? Should I glue it to the walls? People wrote that you add damping material to your taste... does that mean that I make some trials with the case only screwed (not glued) ?

Thanks
 
To fit it flush, I need to cut a bevel on the hole to 4 7/8" but only ¼" deep. I have a rotating bit tool. Do you agree that the best way to make this bevel is for me to buy a new bit with a small bearing at the bottom that would follow my 4" hole?

Hi Jesbull, I am no expert but I'd suggest (1) use a plunge router, circle jig and flat-bottom bit to make the larger "hole" or rabbet a.k.a. rebate. Then (2) set the circle jig to a smaller diameter and make the hole proper. But it sounds like your way would also work.
 
Need a center speaker with the 2 Bi-poles

What would you recommend as a center channel to match with the microtowers?

I would like to use the CHR again in 8 Ohms setup, and be able to nicely place the speaker horizontally in front of the TV.

P.S. I have almost completed the microtowers, I plan painting them next week then test day!
:D
 
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