Thanks Highef, i have run the speaker wire internally and have kept the amp on a recessed shelf next to the right speaker. The idea was to keep the electronics tucked away and let the speakers be the dominant visual element.
Dave, i think you should definitely go through with the build. i'd love to hear what you have to say about them.
i'm wondering what kind of preamp i should go for. i'm tempted to try a valve preamp but i dont want to sacrifice any detail and clarity in the process. ideally i would like to diy so if anyone has a project to recommend please do.
cheers
mymindinside
Dave, i think you should definitely go through with the build. i'd love to hear what you have to say about them.
i'm wondering what kind of preamp i should go for. i'm tempted to try a valve preamp but i dont want to sacrifice any detail and clarity in the process. ideally i would like to diy so if anyone has a project to recommend please do.
cheers
mymindinside
mymindinside,
a tube preamp is a very good idea. Don´t believe there will be any losses. As you´re in India, shipping costs from USA or Europe might be higher than from Hong Kong - have a look at Diy HiFi Supply | Take Control - I´m quite happy with his stuff, and when you are not happy with your credit card company Brian finds another way to do a deal.
a tube preamp is a very good idea. Don´t believe there will be any losses. As you´re in India, shipping costs from USA or Europe might be higher than from Hong Kong - have a look at Diy HiFi Supply | Take Control - I´m quite happy with his stuff, and when you are not happy with your credit card company Brian finds another way to do a deal.
Scaled down Sachiko for 2" Driver?
I have decided to build the Sachiko dual horn with the Tang Band W8-1772 or the Fostex FE206.
In the meantime, I stumbled upon this Hasehiro back loaded horn.
Nine inch tall back loaded horn
Nine inches tall, 4" wide, and 5" deep with a 2" driver. Perfect for my electronics bench.
I am not a woodworker but I have access to local expertise. Still, I do not want a 72" tall Sachiko to be my first DIY speaker. I would like to build a scaled down version before I tackle the monster. In fact, scaled down to accommodate a 2" driver.
I am about to build a modified Pass "micro"-De-lite from the 60 watt / 312 pf 50D2. This amp will have less than few watts output and I would like for it to drive a 2" Sachiko.
I Noticed that the Hiro merely scales the width of the Sachiko. Is there a formula I can use to scale the Sachiko down to accommodate a 2" driver? Thanks.
I have decided to build the Sachiko dual horn with the Tang Band W8-1772 or the Fostex FE206.
In the meantime, I stumbled upon this Hasehiro back loaded horn.
Nine inch tall back loaded horn
Nine inches tall, 4" wide, and 5" deep with a 2" driver. Perfect for my electronics bench.
I am not a woodworker but I have access to local expertise. Still, I do not want a 72" tall Sachiko to be my first DIY speaker. I would like to build a scaled down version before I tackle the monster. In fact, scaled down to accommodate a 2" driver.
I am about to build a modified Pass "micro"-De-lite from the 60 watt / 312 pf 50D2. This amp will have less than few watts output and I would like for it to drive a 2" Sachiko.
I Noticed that the Hiro merely scales the width of the Sachiko. Is there a formula I can use to scale the Sachiko down to accommodate a 2" driver? Thanks.
No, I spent a long time working on that family of boxes to allow only some minor changes for the three basic designs. A 2in driver would be utterly unsuitable for any variation thereof; they're tuned far too low and you'd run into a host of other problems I don't have time to go into on top of hat.
Re Sachiko proper, it's designed for the 206. The TB unit I'm not a fan of & wouldn't recommend using it.
Re the B1 / F2, my amps vary depending. Source is usually a basic Sony CD player; I can't afford anything else. Ironically enough, I don't actually get any benefit from my own speaker designs; I don't have the money or space to run any of them. Best I can manage is to prototype a box, or parts thereof.
Re Sachiko proper, it's designed for the 206. The TB unit I'm not a fan of & wouldn't recommend using it.
Re the B1 / F2, my amps vary depending. Source is usually a basic Sony CD player; I can't afford anything else. Ironically enough, I don't actually get any benefit from my own speaker designs; I don't have the money or space to run any of them. Best I can manage is to prototype a box, or parts thereof.
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!Scott,
you´re not alone in your misery. To paraphrase GM: "I´m sick of having become a HiFi talking head".
Myself - the only differences between a telephone booth and my basement: a telephone booth has more space, better lighting and a telephone.
Iae, as to downsizing - try it and you´ll become a firm believer in DIY HiFi being crap. As a first horn project using small drivers there´s the Buschhorn. Quite nice to see chins dropping to knee height when you crank them up. One caveat though - don´t tell your friends how easy to build they are or you´ll have to churn them out by the dozen.
It does get depressing sometimes. Still, I shouldn't complain; there are people a whole lot worse off than me.
Right, trying to scale a box is generally looking for trouble. You can get some worryingly good results out of 3in units, if you accept the obvious limitations (the little uFonken's still surprise me on occasion) but in principle, I'm a 'more is more' kind of guy, or I would if I could afford to be.
Right, trying to scale a box is generally looking for trouble. You can get some worryingly good results out of 3in units, if you accept the obvious limitations (the little uFonken's still surprise me on occasion) but in principle, I'm a 'more is more' kind of guy, or I would if I could afford to be.
Thanks for the reality check you cheery guys. Thinking about scaling the Sachiko already got me into trouble. I figured that a Buschhorn would complement my pool table so I Googled Buschhorn. I ended up cruising for pictures of Ursula Buschhorn. Wound up at an attack site and narrowly averted an infection. Enough excitement. Maybe I will just tackle the full size version of the Sachiko and be done with it. Scott, I hope that you are around to comment on things. No good deed goes unpunished as they say, but maybe something. First off, I would like to build a prototype with a screw down baffle so that I could fiddle with different drivers before gluing in the final baffle. How naive is that? First and foremost, the 206 - I promise.
Buschhorn Mk 2
and on the last page of the Frugel-Horn plans is an "enlarged Buschhorn Mk 1.
The little bit bigger FH Level 0 is a better speaker.
dave
Scott, you're the second one here who wasn't gushing over the 8" TB's, ironically the other guy found it lacking compared to a 138es-r multi-way and i think EQ'd. If you don't mind me asking, what is it about them that's not to you liking?
...and off topic but any prelim thoughts on the new limited ed Fostex FE103EN-S 4" driver i read about in another F.R. forum post?
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fostex 103en-s - Google Search
Hiro with FE168E Sigma versus Sachiko
I am dangerously close to purchasing wood but I am thinking about Hiro over Sachiko. Plus, the weight of Hiro is much less threatening to my back.
I am puzzled why there is not more interest in Hiro. Further, there seems to be doubt amongst the horn guys about whether the FE168E Sigma is appropriate for Hiro. I think Dave at one point said no but this driver is currently listed on the Frugal Horn ("Frugel (sic)-Horn") site for Hiro. Does "FE168eS" refer to the FE168E Sigma?
Does the compression chamber need to be modified for the FE168eS? Given that Hiro has adequate bass, might it outperform Sachiko in speed and detail? Thanks for any comments.
I am dangerously close to purchasing wood but I am thinking about Hiro over Sachiko. Plus, the weight of Hiro is much less threatening to my back.
I am puzzled why there is not more interest in Hiro. Further, there seems to be doubt amongst the horn guys about whether the FE168E Sigma is appropriate for Hiro. I think Dave at one point said no but this driver is currently listed on the Frugal Horn ("Frugel (sic)-Horn") site for Hiro. Does "FE168eS" refer to the FE168E Sigma?
Does the compression chamber need to be modified for the FE168eS? Given that Hiro has adequate bass, might it outperform Sachiko in speed and detail? Thanks for any comments.
you dont have to lift these speakers
just use a dolly to move them around or put casters on them. The only time I have to lift them is after I have laid them down flat so I can install/remove drivers and
since I just lift one end and use the other as pivot point, it is not that heavy
and I dont have a strong back either
just use a dolly to move them around or put casters on them. The only time I have to lift them is after I have laid them down flat so I can install/remove drivers and
since I just lift one end and use the other as pivot point, it is not that heavy
and I dont have a strong back either
Did you use an ASCI code to make the "∑." I just remembered that I use to know how to do that but I forget how. I do not have the 168E∑ drivers. There is a pair for sale on Audiogon at the moment. I have not decided whether the 80 dollar savings is worth not buying retail from Madisound. I already talked to Madisound about speaker building so I feel that I ought to patronize them.
I currently have Aerial speakers that push 100lbs. I walk them across the floor by pivoting on the spikes. The Hiros, if I build them, might get moved around quite a bit. For now, I am still listening to Classe electronics and multi-way speakers.
I am rekindling a hobby of building amplifiers and hope to build speakers that reveal subtleties in amplifier design and that perform at low wattage.
I currently have Aerial speakers that push 100lbs. I walk them across the floor by pivoting on the spikes. The Hiros, if I build them, might get moved around quite a bit. For now, I am still listening to Classe electronics and multi-way speakers.
I am rekindling a hobby of building amplifiers and hope to build speakers that reveal subtleties in amplifier design and that perform at low wattage.
Na, i just held the alt option key and hit the W key on the MacBook. The Fostex rec. BLH isn't bad either, www.madisound.com/pdf/fostexcabs/168ez_enclrev.pdf
You can expect the Hiro to come in @ ~90lbs depending on the type of lumber and stepped or slanted ends, the Fostex plans will be close due to the doubling up of side panels.
You can expect the Hiro to come in @ ~90lbs depending on the type of lumber and stepped or slanted ends, the Fostex plans will be close due to the doubling up of side panels.
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