Scott, I have run a few "other" drivers through simulations of what I hope comes close to the Sachicos and some of the results were not nice. No way I can email or post them - I deleted them from my harddrive. They were too 
The TB certainly won't (in that box -I'm reserving final judgement on its merits or otherwise in a general sense, but thus far, I'm not convinced). The 208 OTOH might; it doesn't have the fancy cobalt-lathanum motor of the 206ES-R, but it counters with a more advanced cone & suspension, so partnered with, say a T90a, or, better yet, a T900a, I suspect it'll pull ahead, albeit offering a different presentation.
Well.
What a long strange trip it has been!
I started looking at the Shack around Oct.
December I rented a truck, bought sheets of 3/4 plywood at Lowe's, cut them into manageable lengths and got home late at night.
Next day I measured the side panels we had cut and discovered I miss read the schematic, they were only 17 and 3/4.
I ordered the drivers from Dave and in the mean time I pondered renting another truck, buying more 4X8 plywood, having it cut to the right width. I ruled out renting a truck and driving 1.5-2 hours up to Phoenix to buy it up there--I wasn't sure that if I got to Phoenix that I would actually get "Apple" plywood.
Here in Tucson, none of the plywood wholesalers carry "Apple" plywood.
I played around on the internet trying to source what I wanted, and gave up.
Next I tried calling cabinet makers, most of them weren't interested or couldn't get "Apple" plywood.
I ran across a local site for a place called Furniture Creations--custom furniture. Deciding it was better to go there, I made a trip downtown, got lost, but got there a half hour before the closing time on their internet site. It seems as if their winter hours were shorter than their internet hours.
Next trip downtown was earlier, I didn't get lost, and brought a corrected schematic with me. The owner wasn't there, but would be back in two weeks. I finally made it there while it was open and the owner was there. When I mentioned "Apple" plywood he knew what it was! He had to special order it and he would cut it up into manageable pieces for $100 more. The plywood was $450. I went back in two weeks and asked him to give me a price to cut all of the pieces. Ruben the owner agreed to call me when the plywood arrived and give me a price to cut it all up.
Two months later, I stop by the store, Ruben wonders why I never returned his phone calls--he misread his handwriting and was calling xxx-6180; my number is xxx-6130.
I picked up the manageable size pieces today!
My speakers arrived from Dave a few months ago.
Along the way, I've picked up clamps on sale at Harbour Freight, veneer for the front and side panels, and a chop saw.
Still on my list is a used router.
Since its over 100F during the summer here, I'm all set for an indoor summer project.
I guess the last part I need is wire to run from the speaker terminal to the speaker.
Best from Tucson
Bob
What a long strange trip it has been!
I started looking at the Shack around Oct.
December I rented a truck, bought sheets of 3/4 plywood at Lowe's, cut them into manageable lengths and got home late at night.
Next day I measured the side panels we had cut and discovered I miss read the schematic, they were only 17 and 3/4.
I ordered the drivers from Dave and in the mean time I pondered renting another truck, buying more 4X8 plywood, having it cut to the right width. I ruled out renting a truck and driving 1.5-2 hours up to Phoenix to buy it up there--I wasn't sure that if I got to Phoenix that I would actually get "Apple" plywood.
Here in Tucson, none of the plywood wholesalers carry "Apple" plywood.
I played around on the internet trying to source what I wanted, and gave up.
Next I tried calling cabinet makers, most of them weren't interested or couldn't get "Apple" plywood.
I ran across a local site for a place called Furniture Creations--custom furniture. Deciding it was better to go there, I made a trip downtown, got lost, but got there a half hour before the closing time on their internet site. It seems as if their winter hours were shorter than their internet hours.
Next trip downtown was earlier, I didn't get lost, and brought a corrected schematic with me. The owner wasn't there, but would be back in two weeks. I finally made it there while it was open and the owner was there. When I mentioned "Apple" plywood he knew what it was! He had to special order it and he would cut it up into manageable pieces for $100 more. The plywood was $450. I went back in two weeks and asked him to give me a price to cut all of the pieces. Ruben the owner agreed to call me when the plywood arrived and give me a price to cut it all up.
Two months later, I stop by the store, Ruben wonders why I never returned his phone calls--he misread his handwriting and was calling xxx-6180; my number is xxx-6130.
I picked up the manageable size pieces today!
My speakers arrived from Dave a few months ago.
Along the way, I've picked up clamps on sale at Harbour Freight, veneer for the front and side panels, and a chop saw.
Still on my list is a used router.
Since its over 100F during the summer here, I'm all set for an indoor summer project.
I guess the last part I need is wire to run from the speaker terminal to the speaker.
Best from Tucson
Bob
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Resurrecting this old Sachiko build thread. I'm putting together a 5.1 home theater setup using full range drivers and have a few questions before I proceed with the final step... the center channel. I currently have a pair of KCS back loaded horns for LR, FH3's for the surrounds and am finalizing plans for the center.
The KCS BLH's were built with FE206ES-R's and I have an extra new 206ES-R (all were EnAbled by Dave and have phase plugs), which I'd like to use in the center speaker. How good will this driver be for vocals? My plan is to have a cabinet maker build the Sachiko box which will fit nicely on its side under the screen.
Will a single CAT5 wire be suitable for connecting the driver to the binding posts or will multiple wires twisted together be better?
I've read lots of threads regarding baffling to tame some of the acoustic anomalies. Where exactly are people using the felt? Just in the area immediately behind the driver? What is the best thickness for F13? Grainger sells 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" thick 2" wide rolls of adhesive backed felt.
The KCS BLH's were built with FE206ES-R's and I have an extra new 206ES-R (all were EnAbled by Dave and have phase plugs), which I'd like to use in the center speaker. How good will this driver be for vocals? My plan is to have a cabinet maker build the Sachiko box which will fit nicely on its side under the screen.
Will a single CAT5 wire be suitable for connecting the driver to the binding posts or will multiple wires twisted together be better?
I've read lots of threads regarding baffling to tame some of the acoustic anomalies. Where exactly are people using the felt? Just in the area immediately behind the driver? What is the best thickness for F13? Grainger sells 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" thick 2" wide rolls of adhesive backed felt.
Possibly extra series R, and of course it's usually solid core in a sensible shotgun configuration. At least, the stuff around here is: Bell Wire : Telephone Cable : Maplin Electronics
Not automatically it doesn't (re the former). Depends on the output impedance of the amplifier and the alignment of the enclosure in the first place.
For the latter, take your pick of any number of possible factors. It's solid core for a start, which, drooling nonsense put out by the wire companies aside, does bring some advantages in terms of long-term stability & less surface area to corrode. Then you need to consider what the (distributed) series resistance can do for the mids & HF; one example is that it can reduce the effects of back-emf getting into feedback loops etc. There are some benefits to be had in using a more resistive wire for mid & HF duties, although to exploit them fully you need a very efficient system (100dB 1m/2.83v or better), and the connections need to be very good. And so on.
There is a theory by Hawksford that strongly advocates thin wire, but whenever it's shown to a specialist in electromagnetics they've invariably never heard of it (since it was never subject to peer review), and when they look at it, the reactions are interesting. 'Garbage' is a sample comment, which gives some idea of the harvest if it ever were published in an academic journal.
For the latter, take your pick of any number of possible factors. It's solid core for a start, which, drooling nonsense put out by the wire companies aside, does bring some advantages in terms of long-term stability & less surface area to corrode. Then you need to consider what the (distributed) series resistance can do for the mids & HF; one example is that it can reduce the effects of back-emf getting into feedback loops etc. There are some benefits to be had in using a more resistive wire for mid & HF duties, although to exploit them fully you need a very efficient system (100dB 1m/2.83v or better), and the connections need to be very good. And so on.
There is a theory by Hawksford that strongly advocates thin wire, but whenever it's shown to a specialist in electromagnetics they've invariably never heard of it (since it was never subject to peer review), and when they look at it, the reactions are interesting. 'Garbage' is a sample comment, which gives some idea of the harvest if it ever were published in an academic journal.
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Yes, some of the paper gets shredded by these guys but Hawksford stands by the work. And he is no slouch. There may be some truth in it. Jives with what i hear.
Here: Malcolm Hawksford - Publications
in the bottom section. Instructive to scroll thru what precedes it.
G31 ARTICLE: The Essex Echo: 1995, Stereophile
dave
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