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Sachiko Builld Thread
Sachiko Builld Thread
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Old 18th November 2009, 03:58 PM   #11
quadtech is offline quadtech  India
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I used the same - fevicol (white PVA), wood screws and
some greenish wood putty to seal the seams. Your build
looks much better and accurate than mine.

You should be able to find a local carpenter with a router.
Many of carpentry shops here have routers.
But they don't have circle jigs though, but you
can rig up a quick circle jig. It's
nothing more than a length of 6mm mdf attached to
the router base, with a pivot pin (use a nail) at the
proper spacing (roughly half the dia of 7" for the FE206E).
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Old 18th November 2009, 04:30 PM   #12
mymindinside is offline mymindinside  India
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will try and find someone willing to lend me their router,
i dont think i'm more than an mm off anywhere...i just hope that everything seals up tight when i glue the other side in. i dont know how to caulk those seams. any ideas?

thanks again for all the help people, honestly i would never have done something so complex as my first project without the major resource base that is diyaudio.

cheers,
mymindinside
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Old 19th November 2009, 05:44 AM   #13
edjosh23 is offline edjosh23  United States
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looks great, thats not an easy project!
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Old 19th November 2009, 06:40 AM   #14
quadtech is offline quadtech  India
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mymindinside View Post
The FE206E datasheet specifies a 185mm cutout for the driver. is this what most people go with?
Mymindinside
I just measured my cutout and the diameter is 187mm.
The couple of extra mm are probably saw kerf or my error.

It would be good to use T-nuts or threaded inserts to
mount the driver.
Locally, the smallest size ones I could find are 6mm, for
which you will need to slightly drill out the holes on the
Fostex driver.
Or, when you order the drivers, just order 8 of these too -

Screw #10: 1.5" Bolt & Nut (TNUT10-24) from Madisound

Last edited by quadtech; 19th November 2009 at 06:49 AM.
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Old 19th November 2009, 06:55 AM   #15
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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Sachiko Builld Thread
I'd strongly recommend using a threaded insert & not a t-nut.

dave
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Old 19th November 2009, 07:41 AM   #16
mymindinside is offline mymindinside  India
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i'm not sure i can get either of those locally...
will try at the hardware store today. what exactly does a threaded insert look like?
EDIT: found it dave: have attached a photo

an unexpected change of plans means that the drivers will be with me by this afternoon! will do the cutouts and also wire them up. should i use speaker cable (18 or 16 ga.) or a single run of cat5e?

cheers,
mymindinside

Last edited by mymindinside; 19th November 2009 at 07:47 AM.
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Old 19th November 2009, 07:48 AM   #17
mymindinside is offline mymindinside  India
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threaded insert. couldn't attach it in the previous post
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 12J20_230.jpg (12.2 KB, 762 views)
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Old 19th November 2009, 07:48 AM   #18
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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Sachiko Builld Thread
Threaded Inserts, Specialty Fasteners, Fasteners - McFeely's

Click the image to open in full size.

dave
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Old 19th November 2009, 07:50 AM   #19
mymindinside is offline mymindinside  India
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Thanks Dave, you think this holds better than a T-nut?
and is a wood screw direct the worst option?
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Old 19th November 2009, 07:52 AM   #20
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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Sachiko Builld Thread
They stay in place much better... it only takes one instance of a t-nut spinning loose to turn you off of them forever. A real catch-22... you can't fix the t-nut with out getting the driver out, and you can't get the driver out without fixing the t-nut. Much searing ensues.

dave

BTW: an extra bolt or 2 & a washer can be used as a substitue for the tool.
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