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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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I used the same - fevicol (white PVA), wood screws and
some greenish wood putty to seal the seams. Your build looks much better and accurate than mine. You should be able to find a local carpenter with a router. Many of carpentry shops here have routers. But they don't have circle jigs though, but you can rig up a quick circle jig. It's nothing more than a length of 6mm mdf attached to the router base, with a pivot pin (use a nail) at the proper spacing (roughly half the dia of 7" for the FE206E). |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Mumbai/Delhi - India
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will try and find someone willing to lend me their router,
i dont think i'm more than an mm off anywhere...i just hope that everything seals up tight when i glue the other side in. i dont know how to caulk those seams. any ideas? thanks again for all the help people, honestly i would never have done something so complex as my first project without the major resource base that is diyaudio. cheers, mymindinside |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Raleigh/Atlanta
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looks great, thats not an easy project!
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#14 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Quote:
The couple of extra mm are probably saw kerf or my error. It would be good to use T-nuts or threaded inserts to mount the driver. Locally, the smallest size ones I could find are 6mm, for which you will need to slightly drill out the holes on the Fostex driver. Or, when you order the drivers, just order 8 of these too - Screw #10: 1.5" Bolt & Nut (TNUT10-24) from Madisound Last edited by quadtech; 19th November 2009 at 06:49 AM. |
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#15 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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I'd strongly recommend using a threaded insert & not a t-nut.
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Mumbai/Delhi - India
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i'm not sure i can get either of those locally...
will try at the hardware store today. what exactly does a threaded insert look like? EDIT: found it dave: have attached a photo an unexpected change of plans means that the drivers will be with me by this afternoon! will do the cutouts and also wire them up. should i use speaker cable (18 or 16 ga.) or a single run of cat5e? cheers, mymindinside Last edited by mymindinside; 19th November 2009 at 07:47 AM. |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Mumbai/Delhi - India
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threaded insert. couldn't attach it in the previous post
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#18 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Mumbai/Delhi - India
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Thanks Dave, you think this holds better than a T-nut?
and is a wood screw direct the worst option? |
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#20 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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They stay in place much better... it only takes one instance of a t-nut spinning loose to turn you off of them forever. A real catch-22... you can't fix the t-nut with out getting the driver out, and you can't get the driver out without fixing the t-nut. Much searing ensues.
dave BTW: an extra bolt or 2 & a washer can be used as a substitue for the tool.
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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