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Sachiko Builld Thread
Sachiko Builld Thread
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Old 6th April 2010, 02:40 PM   #111
Rullknufs is offline Rullknufs  Sweden
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Sachiko Builld Thread
My real name is Niklas. Rullknufs is just a nickname (knullrufs scrambled up).

Ah, i see. Ordinary birch-plywood is okay also i guess? How much do you think a 1220x2440mm board will cost me? 40$?
I will be the only one listening, the room is around 230cm or so high. And if it sounds less outside the "sweetspot" doesn't matter. But can i make the sweetspot to where i will sit?
Would it be possible to build a little smaller horn with like a 6" driver or something like that?
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Old 6th April 2010, 03:48 PM   #112
Pit Hinder is offline Pit Hinder  Germany
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Niklas - stay away from cheap plywood. Good BB has 13 layers in 18mm thickness - that many layers, with the fibres crossed at 90° from one to the next, give it the stiffness, and the layers of glue between help damping resonances. Building plyboard (used for drywall buiding or pouring concrete) is to be had at 1/4 the money but completely useless for music.

Sweet Spot for one person - easy. Use your arm. Outstretched full length, your thumb is where to aim your boxes. (As a first try - more in or out is a matter of which drivers and personal taste.) Parallel to the side walls = muddied midrange, aimed at your head = you have to sit like bolted fast on the armchair.

Greetings to Up There - how was your Easter holiday weather?
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Old 6th April 2010, 05:43 PM   #113
Rullknufs is offline Rullknufs  Sweden
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Sachiko Builld Thread
Okay, so it's better to wait 2-3 months for enough money for 18mm birchplywood instead of getting MDF or something else?

The right speaker will stand in a corner, pretty close to a windows if it matters, and the left speaker will stand next to a door which is mostly open. I myself sit around a meter from the side wall and around 1½m from the back wall. I do have lots of space to my left thought, but it wont help in any way.

The weather has been very various. The first days was very cloudy and a few degrees +. Pretty warm, snow melting away and so. The last three days have been better. Clearblue sky, +5 in the shade and around +20 to +25 in the sun, and the fact that you're on the mountain driving a snowmobile just makes it better. Me and my dad went to a lake around 8 miles from our cottage and the idea was to try and get some fishes, but it didn't work so well so we didn't stay for long. It was windy aswell and not as warm as usual. Now it's just cloudy (still bright, it's bright to nine o'clock nowadays) and i think tomorrow will be the same

Cheers!

Last edited by Rullknufs; 6th April 2010 at 05:46 PM. Reason: Misclicking button
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Old 6th April 2010, 06:11 PM   #114
Pit Hinder is offline Pit Hinder  Germany
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MDF is not as bad as its reputation - and Scott´s designs are not exceedingly resonant. (Smaller boards are stiffer boards!)

Pro BB: it´s lighter. Build your boxes with MDF (or even cheapest particle board, which is amazingly good) and you need six drunk Swedes to get them from the workshop to your room.

Pro BB: easier to make it look good. Water, sand and stain (if wanted) and you´re rolling. The visible edges of a MDF or particle board box take fillering and sanding to make strong men weep. Time vs. money, as usual.

Congrats re. the weather, ours is rather lousy.

Oh yes - the number of layers in your plywood are important. Cheap stuff has fewer, thicker.

Last edited by Pit Hinder; 6th April 2010 at 06:21 PM. Reason: Keyboard on warpath
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Old 6th April 2010, 06:39 PM   #115
Rullknufs is offline Rullknufs  Sweden
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Sachiko Builld Thread
Okay i see.
But i'm not sure if i will build a Sachiko at all. If it wont fit at all in my room it makes no sense since i will be stuck in my room for atleast 3-4 years. But if it works pretty well but not completely optimal i think i will go for it.
I've taken a look at both Hiro and Saburo but i'm not sure really...
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Old 6th April 2010, 06:43 PM   #116
Pit Hinder is offline Pit Hinder  Germany
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You´ll never know before you´ve tried. Have a go, and post your results.
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Old 6th April 2010, 07:29 PM   #117
Rullknufs is offline Rullknufs  Sweden
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I'm afraid i can't spend more than half a year of saved money for something that wont surely end up good. It's a lot of money for me, i'm just 15 and i got no real income at all.
If i were 10 years older with a good job, okay i could try it. But not now.

But, is the Saburo better in a smaller room and how about the thing that one speaker has to be placed in a corner and the other next to a door?
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Old 6th April 2010, 07:51 PM   #118
lae2 is offline lae2  United States
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Default Sachiko panel A tongue

Is the panel A tongue brace generally a separate piece of wood that is subsequently glued to panel A. Or, instead, are the tongue dimensions determined before cutting panel A and then panel A cut accordingly. In the later case I imagine that the tongue could be intentionally over-sized and then fine tuned as a final part of the construction. Does the amplitude of force applied to the tongue by the speaker affect the tuning of the cabinet? This may be bit compulsive of me but I am considering Pit's suggestion to commission a cabinet maker and I want to be prepared for the conversation.
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Old 6th April 2010, 08:28 PM   #119
quadtech is offline quadtech  India
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Make sure the tongue is correctly sized, else either there would be no
contact, or the speaker frame will be stressed.

Ideally, the tongue dimension is calculated beforehand to make the tongue
an integral part of the A piece. On the first Sachiko, I made it a bit
too long. It was a real pain to grind them down (there are 2 A pieces
in each speaker) from the speaker cutout - I did not have a power
sander and spent a few hours doing it by hand.
For the second one, I cut it to the right size before gluing :-)
I did note it somewhere, but if my (bad) memory serves me right, the tongue
depth was 1".

Last edited by quadtech; 6th April 2010 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 6th April 2010, 08:33 PM   #120
Pit Hinder is offline Pit Hinder  Germany
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Not one to leap before you look, are you?

That tongue is the only tricky bit, as the exact dimensions, wether Imperial or Metric, are precisely "no idea".
You want the magnet in close contact with the whole structure, otoh you don´t want to dent the driver. Have the tongue cut 1/8" short and add rubber or foam rubber (you get bands of it by the yard, used to get windows raintight) until you get that "OK, fits and sits" feeling.

The sense of it is to have the whole box´s weight, instead of just the driver´s flimsy basket, soak up the moving masses´ recoil. One of the "could do without it, but..." measures that DO make a difference.
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