Locating Speaker Terminals On Sachiko Cabinets. Your Help Is Greatly Appreciated

[mister pig]

Hello,

I am having a set of Sachiko cabinets shipped to me from a great guy in California. I have always enjoyed BLH speakers, and this was a deal I couldn't pass up.

I am in the process of acquiring the needed parts to get the speakers working. The Fostex FE206E are sitting in my closet. I need to order some wiring, and I understand that getting the binding posts mounted is not a straightforward task.

I do not have the speakers here, but want to be ready to go when they do arrive. I have looked at the Sachiko plans, but do not see where wiring is intended to go. Is it supposed to go into the back of the fold that is 1/3 of the way up from the bottom? Then drill a hole in the bottom of the compression chamber to feed the wire through?

I also understand a binding post plate such as the ones Parts Express offers is a recommended way to get things mounted up neatly.

Any thoughts/opinions/ recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Regards
Mister Pig

[chrisb]

Yup, this is definitely one of those tight enclosures for working room, and of course there could be a lot of bandwidth and emotional energy invested in the debate about where it's best to have the shortest length of wire ( i.e. inside or outside the box), and the "best" type of wire - and let's not get started on binding posts, etc.

I probably build 2 or 3 dozen speaker projects a year, and for simplicity of installation and cost, I use a small, cheap round plastic input cup with 5-way binding posts. All it takes is a simple hole saw ( IIRC, approx 2")

In the case of the Sachiko, I'd be inclined to mount these below the location of the triangular deflector on rear panel. That would place the center for the hole-saw pilot approx 32-33" from the bottom plate.

[jleaman]

I think chris is talking about something like this.

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by jleaman

I think chris is talking about something like this.

Pretty much - just smaller diameter than shown . As I tend to swap enclosures and system locations a lot, I'm happy enough with the sonics of light gauge wire and convenience of Pomona style dual banana plugs, and don't need room access the nuts on these terminals. They're dirt cheap, easy to install, and have the advantage of very low mass of conducting material.

[planet10]

These are the ones we use.



Small diameter means less loss of panel rigidity (at the expensive of a tight fit for fingers). "Cheap" plastic terminals are actually better than the zoomier ones that can be had. They can always be replaced with nicer (low mass) posts at any time.

dave

[mister pig]

Referencing this drawing

http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...v01-220309.pdf


The chamber behind the driver looks to be 2.5 inches tall. The slot directly underneath the angled deflector looks to be 1.75 inches tall. If I cut a small opening, say 1.5 by 3 inches I should be able to miss the deflector and use a Cardas or Parts Express speaker binding post mounting plate.

Whatcha all think?

Regards
Mister Pig

[Ty_Bower]

Has anyone here tried the Dayton binding posts at Parts Express? You just drill a 1/4" hole, and hammer the thing in. It seems pretty idiot-proof. It doesn't require much room to install, either.

[jleaman]

Originally Posted by Ty_Bower

Has anyone here tried the Dayton binding posts at Parts Express? You just drill a 1/4" hole, and hammer the thing in. It seems pretty idiot-proof. It doesn't require much room to install, either.

That's a'lot of metal for a small accomplishment, I think the idea here is less mass less metal and less forgin material.!

[planet10]

I agree. Too my mind those are ugly. Too much metal.

dave

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by mister pig

Referencing this drawing

http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...v01-220309.pdf


The chamber behind the driver looks to be 2.5 inches tall. The slot directly underneath the angled deflector looks to be 1.75 inches tall. If I cut a small opening, say 1.5 by 3 inches I should be able to miss the deflector and use a Cardas or Parts Express speaker binding post mounting plate.

Whatcha all think?

Regards
Mister Pig

This is perhaps sacrilege, but the only Cardas binding posts I've personally used were the special patented ones, and I found them a total pain in the rear panel to install and use.



They do make a rectangular metal plate to simplify installation, as the Parts Express plates are nice as well, but the cheap round input cups and hole saw if you don't already own one can be purchased for less than the high zoot parts, and installation is a pretty quick.

If I was going to get any fancier than the cheap terminal cups, I'd probably go for the Eichmans




or WBT Next-Gens.