Can 3" TB W3-593SF be Fonkenized? - Page 3

profring · 11th January 2012, 05:16 PM

ok the drivers are the W3-593SF,my bad with the height measurement....that is why they say measure twice cut once!!

and one last question before i go out and buy everything i need....
it is a little on the theoretical side...
what's the difference between the fonkens,frugal horns,needles enclosures etc that use the same driver?
is it right to say better sound from one enclosure to the other?
or all have their pros and cons?
or it is personal preference in sound?
or it depends on the use one wants them for?(book shelf,floor standers,home theater use,presence of a woofer etc)

thanks ilias

Bjohannesen · 12th January 2012, 07:15 AM

Hi Proofring, about the theory.

Different desings have different shapes and volume. They also have different tuning frequency, which has to correspond to the data of the driver (Fs and Qts). Damping can also be different.

Which one is best ? This is very much up to your own personal taste.

I use MJK´s software to find the solution that suits my personal preferences, which is a flat frequence response and a well controlled bass. You can see some predictions in my document.

coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ_TL_for_TB.pdf

profring · 12th January 2012, 01:38 PM

thanks for the clarification Bjohannesen cause i was thinking about floorstanding cabinets but i don't have a lot of room for them!!
i'll stick to this plan now!!

profring · 18th March 2012, 04:16 PM

okay the time has come for me to make my cabs...
i have one last question....how do i achieve the mirror like finish?they will be yellow i think,but i don't want texture (or as less as possible)
thanks
ilias

fakeout · 18th March 2012, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by profring

okay the time has come for me to make my cabs...
i have one last question....how do i achieve the mirror like finish?they will be yellow i think,but i don't want texture (or as less as possible)
thanks
ilias

I'm not the expert on this but when I did a shop class, we put primer and sanded it down with finer and finer sandpaper to get the surface real smooth. And I know from experience when you apply spray paint to keep the can far enough to avoid causing drips (and also applying one light coat at a time).

profring · 18th March 2012, 07:20 PM

sanding the primer,that is usefull!
the clear coat "melts" the texture of the paint flat....can i also sand the clear coat?or if i have a flat primed surface i am ok from then on?

chrisb · 19th March 2012, 02:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by profring

sanding the primer,that is usefull!
the clear coat "melts" the texture of the paint flat....can i also sand the clear coat?or if i have a flat primed surface i am ok from then on?

yes you can sand the clear top coat - you'll probably need more than one

profring · 19th March 2012, 03:49 PM

thanks,i understand i will have to put on enough material if i want to sand...i am a little impatient when building stuff for me and not for others...so i will first try everything on a scrap piece before even dry fit the enclosures

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11th January 2012, 05:16 PM	#21
profring diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2011	ok the drivers are the W3-593SF,my bad with the height measurement....that is why they say measure twice cut once!! and one last question before i go out and buy everything i need.... it is a little on the theoretical side... what's the difference between the fonkens,frugal horns,needles enclosures etc that use the same driver? is it right to say better sound from one enclosure to the other? or all have their pros and cons? or it is personal preference in sound? or it depends on the use one wants them for?(book shelf,floor standers,home theater use,presence of a woofer etc) thanks ilias

12th January 2012, 07:15 AM	#22
Bjohannesen diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Copenhagen	Hi Proofring, about the theory. Different desings have different shapes and volume. They also have different tuning frequency, which has to correspond to the data of the driver (Fs and Qts). Damping can also be different. Which one is best ? This is very much up to your own personal taste. I use MJK´s software to find the solution that suits my personal preferences, which is a flat frequence response and a well controlled bass. You can see some predictions in my document. coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ_TL_for_TB.pdf

12th January 2012, 01:38 PM	#23
profring diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2011	thanks for the clarification Bjohannesen cause i was thinking about floorstanding cabinets but i don't have a lot of room for them!! i'll stick to this plan now!!

18th March 2012, 04:16 PM	#24
profring diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2011	okay the time has come for me to make my cabs... i have one last question....how do i achieve the mirror like finish?they will be yellow i think,but i don't want texture (or as less as possible) thanks ilias

18th March 2012, 07:20 PM	#26
profring diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2011	sanding the primer,that is usefull! the clear coat "melts" the texture of the paint flat....can i also sand the clear coat?or if i have a flat primed surface i am ok from then on?

19th March 2012, 03:49 PM	#28
profring diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2011	thanks,i understand i will have to put on enough material if i want to sand...i am a little impatient when building stuff for me and not for others...so i will first try everything on a scrap piece before even dry fit the enclosures

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