|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#31 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
|
Quote:
I won't mess with the FE167E. I think it will be happy getting current from a NP Firstwatt F3. See http://www.firstwatt.com/downloads/cs-amps-speakers.pdf for power transconductance amps with full range drivers. A BSC circuit might not be needed either. A future update will be getting my FE167E eNaBled. I built a DIY gainclone based on the LM3886 Chip which I will use for the SDX7. Gainclones have a somewhat high damping factor which should be good. I'm currently working on a buffered PLLXO. Something similar to the NP B4. See sketch in this thread Single Ended Active Crossovers for Open Baffle Speakers Not sure if his design will be published publicly, but it is the perfect device for biamping with full range drivers. It's not yet for sale either. I made a DIY B1 buffer, and it's sitting in front of the gainclone powering the FE167E's and it makes a HUGE difference in the sound when you have proper impedance matching, so a B4 type circuit is the way to go for me. Perhaps one running dual supply that is regulated to get rid of the bypass caps in the signal path. The biggest risk of this design is placement of the speakers FE167E and SDX7 within this cabinet, I tried to physically spread out with the driver, port and sub. But it's really unknown to me how it will sound in the room. From simple listening tests with the current speaker build and just firing up the SDX7 from another amp with no crossovers it sounded very promising. The hard part now is getting a buffered XO system to work with both the FR and Sub in this cabinet. Adjustable electronic XO and adjustable Q point with removable shelves gives me a bit of a tweak factor and many hours of listening this system to get it right. I estimate that it will take several months. |
|
|
|
|
|
#32 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
|
After hearing these EL70's at CSS. I almost thought about replacing the FE167E with Dual EL70's wired series like Bob's at CSS.
Possible future addition is to have these interchangeable with the FE167E's in the same cabinet. (Sometime next year perhaps, wife permitting, yes I have a budget. )One of the differences is that the stuffing will have to probably change dramatically for each speaker swap. There is a bit of ringing. Need to think about a supra baffle/speaker caddie for each FR system. What are the choices of materials. Hardwood, softwood, MDF, non-wood? I guess something more ridgid? |
|
|
|
|
#33 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
|
Quote:
if you're planning on swapping baffles, I think the choice of method to attach to main enclosure could ultimately be as important as the material for the baffles themselves. I'd be inclined towards either hardwood cleats screwed to the perimeter of the baffle opening and threaded insert fittings, or 3/4" x 3/4" x1/4" aluminum angle, tapped for machine screws. For the baffles, as they'd not be permanently glued to the enclosures, but rather sealed with weatherstripping, etc., you'd be free to play with solid woods, plywood, 1/4" or thicker aluminum plate - the sky's the limit. I've always wanted to find an excuse to try aluminum plate.
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
|
|
|
|
|
#34 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
|
Quote:
Thanks Chris. I'd like to try different hardwoods. Give's my a chance to play around with the router a bit more. I used T-Nuts to attach the FE167E, don't know If I can re-use those in the same location. We'll see. |
|
|
|
|
|
#35 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
|
Circuit Description:
- Dual supply with JFET source followers - Sallen Key circuit - Linkwitz Riley 2nd order The simulation comes out okay, the frequency range for the XO should suffice the output Impedance of this circuit. Calculated range is about 40Hz to 400Hz, without too much loading issue. If so, a "white follower" can be employed. References: http://www.borbelyaudio.com/adobe/ae699bor.pdf Crossovers ESP - The Linkwitz Transform Circuit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallen%...93Key_topology The Art of Electronics, 2nd Edition, Horowitz and Hill, 1989 Last edited by ljfont; 16th November 2009 at 12:18 AM. |
|
|
|
|
#36 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
|
Reducing the rails to +/- 9V, required reducing the source resistance a few ohms to keep the output DC offsets low.
Simulated Data: Bias Id = 6.35mA Source 1kHz sine X0(Hz) THD(%) DC offset (uV) 40 0.000 14 120 0.003 25 200 0.009 86 400 0.032 324 Source 10kHz sine X0(Hz) THD(%) DC offset (uV) 40 0.000 11 120 0.003 45 200 0.010 92 400 0.039 400 Slightly higher DC offsets in the higher frequency sim. But very small, uV. THD increasing with fo. I will try with different bias for Id (Need to see the curves on the datasheets) and "white follower" topology to see if the THD lowers. So loading is a little bit of a factor at the higher XO frequencies. More info later. |
|
|
|
|
#37 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
|
Lowered THD @ 400Hz. Calculated 0.001% with 1V peak input sine. Reduced the filter Capacitance to lower loading and distortion.
White follower not needed since it can drive this load okay Cascode topology doesn't need to be called in since it's a lower frequency XO range. Specs: Solen Film and Foil Polypropelene Caps Matched JFETs Metal Film Resistors Well, that's it for a while. Can't build anything till next month. Out of town.
Last edited by ljfont; 17th November 2009 at 12:17 AM. |
|
|
|
|
#38 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
|
So, I've been living with these for awhile now, and they really sound great. However, there are probably some tweaks that can make them sound better.
Q: Which is preferred? a) A BSC circuit b) High Q HP filter for the FR Q: Which is preferred? a) A passive circuit at the speaker, which can effect the speakers response (quoting Linkwitz) b) A passive buffered circuit which has caps and/or coils in the signal path? Q: What relationship exists between stiffer damping at the terminus and cone excursion? Thanks |
|
|
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| A thread for Tysen and variations on FAST | planet10 | Full Range | 176 | 19th January 2012 04:05 PM |
| Cheap Version of the famous Tysen speaker. | chris661 | Full Range | 108 | 10th November 2009 05:09 PM |
| FR125S/SDX7 2-way | Timn8ter | Multi-Way | 41 | 11th June 2009 04:23 PM |
| Box options for CSS SDX7. | 901Fixer | Subwoofers | 40 | 13th April 2009 08:37 PM |
| wtb: CSS SDX7's | kappa546 | Swap Meet | 0 | 13th January 2009 09:13 AM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.14119 seconds (83.01% PHP - 16.99% MySQL) with 11 queries |