Tysen Variation FE167E with CSS SDX7

[ljfont]

Originally Posted by planet10

I don't think many have heard the Alpair 7, Mark only made the 1st of them a very short while ago (you probably mean Alpair 6).

Given that you have the volume, and you are using drivers that go lower, you might well consider the Trio8 or Trio10 instead of the SDX7.

dave

I bought the SDX7 cause if this design is not sufficient, then I can build a small sealed box with two drivers.

Yes, they were probably Alpair 6's.

[ljfont]

Originally Posted by planet10

I don't think many have heard the Alpair 7
dave

Yes it was an Alpair 6

[ljfont]

Originally Posted by planet10

Given that you have the volume, and you are using drivers that go lower, you might well consider the Trio8 or Trio10 instead of the SDX7.

dave

I got two of the SDX7's for this project. If it doesn't work out, I may use them for a small sub.

[ljfont]

That shouldn't be too too hard to do. Multiple shelves exposing different volumes to change up the Q point. The seal should be fairly snug and still be removable. Might need a bit of sanding down.

The shelves could be extracted from the rear of the cabinet, and then be covered afterward.

Drawing to come later.

[ljfont]

Okay here's the latest drawing and plots. The drawing is still work-in-progress.

I made a few changes.

-Folded aperiodic 12:1 taper fast speaker. I changed it to 12:1 to give a bit more room if I wanted to add a supra baffle later and/or different drivers for this cabinet. I also changed it to move the front port down a bit closer to the middle of the cabinet so it's closer to the sub enclosure.

- The centre of the sub is about 12" from the ground. I looked at other commercial designs (Jamo S606, Polk LSi 15) and they don't have it right to the floor. The cabinet have similar dimension. So I went with it. I don't have a carpeted floor so, I didn't really want it down low.

- I'm still working out the movable shelves. I probably won't use T+G, I'll just use horizontal braces. Much easier. I'm still new to woodworking.

- I'm still working out a back brace for the SDX7.

- The entire back will be removable via screws and sealed with weather stripping. To get access to for stuffing and the BSC/Networks.

- I've moved the cut off frequency up to about 120Hz or so, this was to minimize the impedance down 20 ohms, so perhaps the XO will be higher.

- Material is 1/2" birch from Home depot. Expensive for just a prototype, but I just want to hear how it sounds compared to MDF. Probably could have been 3/4" instead. But we'll see.

[ljfont]

Here's what it looks like so far. Nothing is glued yet, just clamped together.

- I created a cut sheet list, and got home depot to do the long cuts, and I did the rest myself at home. That's probably the best move I made so far in this construction. Their CNC cutting machine is pretty accurate.

- Still need to file out the speaker holes. I don't have a jig to make 45 degree chamfers, I'm going the old fashioned way. But needs a bit more.

- Higher quality plywood is SOOO much nicer to work with, and there is no MDF dust flying everywhere.

-I'm hoping to get most of this done this week.

[planet10]

Originally Posted by ljfont

- Material is 1/2" birch from Home depot. Expensive for just a prototype, but I just want to hear how it sounds compared to MDF. Probably could have been 3/4" instead. But we'll see.

You will probably have to double up at least the SDX7 part... they can generate a lot of energy.

dave

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by ljfont

Here's what it looks like so far. Nothing is glued yet, just clamped together.

- I created a cut sheet list, and got home depot to do the long cuts, and I did the rest myself at home. That's probably the best move I made so far in this construction. Their CNC cutting machine is pretty accurate.

- Still need to file out the speaker holes. I don't have a jig to make 45 degree chamfers, I'm going the old fashioned way. But needs a bit more.

if you're planning on spending much time in DIY realm, the investment in a cheap router and a few bits will more than pay for themselves.

- Higher quality plywood is SOOO much nicer to work with, and there is no MDF dust flying everywhere.

preaching to the choir my friend

-I'm hoping to get most of this done this week.

don't be surprised if things take longer than you planned.



those SDX7 may not be the most efficient driver in the world, but as Dave noted, those are powerful motors - based on some experience, it's pretty hard to over brace an enclosure for them



best of luck, and keep us posted


chris

[ljfont]

The previously displayed plots were generated using software created by Martin King and licensed to me for personal DIY purposes only.

MathCad Computer Models : Upgraded Versions

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[ljfont]

Originally Posted by planet10

You will probably have to double up at least the SDX7 part... they can generate a lot of energy.

dave

Should that be the entire internal area for the SDX7? or will doubling the rear side of the baffle and adding more support.

I only have a bit of 1/2" birch left. I do have some cheap spruce plywood and some MDF (which I'm trying to avoid)

Thanks.