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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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In India, a suitable option is 19mm 13 ply void-free
marine grade ply (ask for IS:710 spec). I built a pair of Sachikos with this. |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
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#13 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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But the plywood is good to build whatever you build. Would make for a VERY solid milli or micro.
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Just to re-state what Dave already said:
The standard Fonkens require Fostex FE127e. The micro-Fonkens need Fostex FF85k. (And that is a really SWEET driver! Just know that the low end with the micro-Fonkens is about 100 Hz.) Both are available in the US from Madisound, while specially modified versions are available from Dave at Planet 10. I would not consider trying to use different drivers,as the result may be unsatisfactory. Cheers, Jim
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A day without music is like a day without food. |
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
i finally managed to fund the FOSTEX 127E but i have a few questions 1) what kind of music can i listen in , quater wave desin using Tangband W3 315SE or W3 926 drivers, i saw some plan for it using MDF 2) for Fonken M can i use MDF, coz plywood i dont know i m not sure as in india we dont get birch plywood, MDF is yes in two quality I & II , 3) would the Fostex survive in bombay's humid climate, during monsoons it would 38 deg centigrade humidity 50 to 80% i ask this coz its not a paper cone or pp or kevlar, 4) i see some kevlar drives of 3.5" by Tymphany, how good is it, its on parts express i have i period of only 15 days befor i reach my deadline for placing order, with regard aditya |
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#16 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
3/ The Fostex cones are paper. If you do the pre-treatment it helps make them less likely to suck up water or mold. Where i live the humidity is similar to yours, but the tempearatures are 3-15 C. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
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pre treatment as in, and how is the sound if i use mdf, plywood quality is not so great here, as wood is not the primary construction material,
so i have to stick to mdf, hope it turns out fine, thas for the relay but i still have tons of question as i m new to speaker making |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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<<1) what kind of music can i listen in , quater wave desin using Tangband W3 315SE or W3 926 drivers, i saw some plan for it using MDF>>
I don't have any experience with Tangband drivers. In general, single full range drivers are great for vocals and small groups. I think they are alright for large scale orchestral music, as long as you keep the volume down. For hard rock and loud volume, you need to look elsewhere. <<2) for Fonken M can i use MDF, coz plywood i dont know i m not sure as in india we dont get birch plywood, MDF is yes in two quality I & II ,>> While I agree that Baltic Birch plywood is the best choice, in some areas it just is not available. Second choice would be void free plywood of another kind. If that is not available, then I guess I would try MDF or oriented strand board; while not ideal, it is certainly better than nothing! <<3) would the Fostex survive in bombay's humid climate, during monsoons it would 38 deg centigrade humidity 50 to 80% i ask this coz its not a paper cone or pp or kevlar,>> Heat, humidity and air quality are certainly concerns. I think I would avoid drivers with foam surrounds--which includes the FF85k. The FE127e looks to me like a cloth surround, which I would expect to survive longer than the foam. Dave knows about treating cones, so I would defer to him on that. <<4) i see some kevlar drives of 3.5" by Tymphany, how good is it, its on parts express >> Again, I have no experience with those drivers. Good luck! And let us know how things turn out. Cheers, Jim
__________________
A day without music is like a day without food. |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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I have the Monitor 30 (bi-wired), and I recommend it warmly.
It's very transparent and tonally faithful, for the price. Give them a bit of break in and they gain bass impact and extension. Mid-treble is quite smooth and refined for the price. The tweeter is a very real silk/polymer dome with neodymium magnet. Sounds quite precise for the price, also thanks to the mylar/polyester high-pass cap in the crossover.
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#20 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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