Fonken cut list and damping material question

[crappyjones123]

does anyone have a cut list for fonkens? i have a local woodworker who is helping me build the cabinets but he said that his life would be a lot easier if he just had a cut list. instead of emailing dave/chris i figured i would post here in case they didnt have the list but someone else did.

obviously i am not asking people to change their calculations for me but the gentleman has only 3/4" birch so if anyone has a list keeping that in mind i would greatly appreciate it. does anything else have to be changed if the entire build is with 3/4" birch? i know that all the internal dimensions have to be exact.

as far as the stuffing goes, i have access to the following. can any of it be used? or should i just order "audiophile" stuffing from madisound?

Jute
Automotive needlepunch carpet flexform
Dacron padding (not as loose as the filling and was joined together. almost like a sheet of the dacron)
Dacron loose filling (gentleman called it pillow filling. it seemed like foam but much much lighter and not as dense)


any suggestions before i tell the gentleman to start building the cabinets?

will be using baltic birch and then staining it to a light mahogany color.

[planet10]

eMail me... this will be part of the next rev of the (small cost) FonkenPrime plans. I need some beta testers.

dave

[crappyjones123]

already emailed you.

[planet10]

I'm in the field today and i posted before checking my email... expect a reply later today.

dave

[crappyjones123]

just so i dont do something stupid...the + terminal on the driver goes to the red post and the - terminal goes to the black post, yes? does it matter what gauge cable i use to wire the driver to the binding posts? i have 22awg cable that i got from radio shack and 15awg cable coming in from madisound (the supra classic 1.5). any suggestions or trip points for the actual construction would be much appreciated. this is the current plan of build.

1. cut up the boards according to the cut plan.
2. put the boards together (minus the back panel with nail pins to make sure everything fits properly). this is only a temporary thing to see if it all fits together and to sand down any surfaces that havent been cut to spec.
3. bevel the hole where the driver is to be mounted so that it sits flush with the front baffle.
4. line the insides of the speaker with wool felt. i will stop the lining about 1" from the ports. dave said to keep that area clear of any obstructions or the bass will suffer. if i should stop farther than an inch then please let me know.
5. take the pin nails out and assemble the box with wood glue for a permanent seal leaving the back panel off for last minute adjustments.
6. solder the wire to the driver and mount the driver on the front baffle.
7. drill holes in the back panel for the binding posts (i am not using the terminal cups...just mounting the posts straight to the back).
8. glue the back panel on to the cabinet and wait for it to dry (the worst part).

the gentleman who is helping put this together is a wood worker so i am assuming he will know at what step to finish the wood. if you have suggestions on when to do this please mention it.

thanks much. cant wait until next weekend (hopefully i can have them playing some toones by then).

cheers to paul for selling me the drivers at a great price and shipping them a few hours after i paid him and packing them as well as anyone could have. thanks a ton sir. people like you make this hobby as enjoyable as it is.

[Jim Shearer]

There are different schools of thought as regards finish. I subscribe to the school that says finish ALL surfaces, inside & out. This means I am applying finish before glue-up. Areas which are to be glued need to be taped off--the glue will not hold on a finished surface. Part of my reasoning for applying finish before glue-up is that if you get glue on an unfinished surface, that area will not take stain/finish properly. And if you think about those long, narrow vents: how would you finish them after assembly?

Cheers, Jim

[crappyjones123]

Originally Posted by Jim Shearer

And if you think about those long, narrow vents: how would you finish them after assembly?

Cheers, Jim

something i had not thought about. thanks

[planet10]

Originally Posted by crappyjones123

3. bevel the hole where the driver is to be mounted so that it sits flush with the front baffle.

The bevel on the back of the driver hole is for breathing room. A rebate on the front is needed for (optional) flush mount.

Using binding posts as you are, you will not ever get at them again if you have a problem or want to swap wire.

There is a step where you make sure that the holey brace is tighly fitted to the driver (best done with a side the last piece installed)

dave

[crappyjones123]

hmm...good point about the binding posts. at this stage, i can think of 4 options.

1. leave the top or the bottom panel screw on.
2. leave the back panel screw on.
3. cut the back panel into 2 pieces one of which is screwed on and the other is glued to the rest of the cabinet.
4. cut out a hole in the back panel and instead of putting a terminal cup there, just use the piece of wood itself as a terminal cup. so the circle would be screw on. i could try to ask if the circle could be made to sit flush with the rest of the panel. i think however that this might be asking for too much work.

aesthetically i would like to go with option 4 but option 3 is at the forefront in terms of ease of implementation.

ill ask the gentleman doing the woodwork if he has any ideas. i hate the look of binding post cups and would like to avoid them at all costs. i also have this inherent dislike for screw on panels as i feel that this leaves the cabinet not as structurally sound and more prone to leaks perhaps. if this is unfounded please let me know and i will just make the back panel screw on for simplicity's sake.

suggestions are welcome here.

[vinylkid58]

Originally Posted by crappyjones123

2. leave the back panel screw on.

I left the back panel loose until I was happy with the driver brace cutout, then I glued it in place.

One other point you brought up was staining Baltic Birch. This could turn out blotchy and nasty looking according to others that have finished BB. I used varnish on mine. Another option is veneer.

Jeff