Cheap Version of the famous Tysen speaker.

[Henkjan]

from what I read, the ..M version of the FRS8 is well worth the few euro's the cost extra

[chris661]

I think I'd have got it as long as it sounded equal or better - the extra efficiency means a simpler MTL, and it would remove the chances of comb filtering aswell.

Chris

[Nanook]

if the Q of the more efficient driver is around 1 (look at the FR 8 JS 8 OHM) , then try an OB. Then whatever woofer in whatever size box for the bass. As long as the Xover is 2nd order, and at least 2X's the low end limit of the OB, you should have something very enjoyable. And power is really not an issue, or a problem as something like 75% of the power requirded to drive a loudspeaker system is used below 60Hz...top end use 10-20 watts/ch, bottom end 100-150w/ch for the woofs

I do love OB speakers.

[chris661]

I've not thought about using OB much, but there's two problems with the above mentioned driver.

One is efficiency
Two is finding it in the UK - I can get the frs8m, which is a good start, as the 88dB 1w/1m efficiency means it would be more suited to the woofer in question.

Perhaps I should explain. I have two stereo amps. One (will be) bridged, and used with a subwoofer. The second is a better quality amp, which I usually use with my mains. So you see, I usually try to find a way to make it usable with one amp.

The Q of the more efficient one (frs8m) is 0.49, with a Qms of over 3. The Q of the less efficient one (frs8) I already have is over 1, and I've tried that on small baffles, with another (in a sealed box) to cancel the rearwaves.

Thanks for the interest.
Chris

[chris661]

The last time I bi-amped, it was with the high quality amp on the mid/high, and the subwoofer amp on the woofers.

The ratings are as follows:
HQ amp - 75W/ch
LQ amp - 50W/ch.

However, the HQ amp hits 10%THD at 60W into 4 ohm for both channels.
The LQ amp will push 14dB of LT gain and cause the speakers to bottom out before clipping (with a sealed box, this is an achievement). So, where does that leave us?

Chris

[chris661]

I know I've been posting a lot recently, but I've had a brainwave...

Would adding a supertweeter (8kHz upwards) to stop beaming be a good idea?

I ask because, looking at the dispersion characteristics of the FR drivers I've chosen, they beam a lot higher up the frequency range, so I wondered if I should just cope with it, or add a crossover and tweeter?

Thanks in advance
Chris

[chris661]

Here's another version of the Tysen, made by Visaton themselves:

Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and Accessories

[Zigis]

Hi Chris, thanks for modelling (post 14), do you modellig it for sealed box or BR?
BR is what I don't want any more.

For your project, I think you worry too much about drivers efficiency and SPL.
I use my Cyburgs Needles with FRS8 and 10W T-amp in 30sq/m room. Maybe sometime, wen I want to listen bassy music, like reggae very loud, there is little not enough.
But if you cut RFS8 at 200-300hz, you can go loud and clean. Just go active, be amping.
You can get quality amp for cheap, buying and a little bit modifying this:
MKll Tripath TA2024 fully finished&tested pcb 2x15watt - eBay (item 250500639848 end time Oct-18-09 04:48:33 PDT)
Or without modification this:
New Version MKIII Tripath DIY Audio TA2024 PCB - eBay (item 250512142377 end time Oct-15-09 20:08:06 PDT)
and connect it to this:
12V 2A DC Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply - eBay (item 280344252845 end time Nov-06-09 17:59:18 PST)

[Zigis]

Originally Posted by chris661

Here's another version of the Tysen, made by Visaton themselves:

Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and Accessories

Yes I see at this too before, only one thing that I hate in this design - this is BR.
Can you simulate, what happens in this enclosure size with closed ports - sealed box?

[chris661]

For the W170S, the box size is too small - winISD suggests 60L, visaton put it into 17L.

For sealed, you can go down to 30litres, and get a good bass response - f3 of 55Hz, f10 of 35Hz.

Chris