Slate rock for open baffle

ikoflexer · 23rd September 2009, 06:58 PM

These days people throw out slate rock blackboards in schools/universities, and I came across two pieces 5/16 (about 9mm) thick. One of them is about 4ft x 5ft, the other 4ft x 6ft.

I also have a couple of FR drivers, and was wondering if it would be a really stupid idea to use the slate for the baffle. Any opinions on this?

Thanks a bunch in advance.

Zen Mod · 23rd September 2009, 08:09 PM

you're my idol

just go for it ...... and make some solid frame for them .....

analog_sa · 23rd September 2009, 08:29 PM

It may be pretty if the drivers are extensively decoupled from the baffle, otherwise it may be a disaster. And don't tempt your visitors with chalk lying around

renfrow · 23rd September 2009, 08:55 PM

Or you could write 'Now Playing...' on the board...

chrisb · 23rd September 2009, 09:12 PM

You'll need some type of mounting plate/adaptor for mechanical fastening of the driver to baffle. While these could be attached to the rear of driver cut-out with epoxy or Sikaflex, etc., fabricating holes in the slate itself without fracturing could be fun. I'd suggest researching local CNC water jet cutting shops for estimate of driver cut-out and screw mounting holes.

While slate for chalkboards has probably already been machined with a very smooth face on writing surface, you'd still want some type of gasket to seal and decouple the driver basket frame. Self adhesive, closed cell weatherstripping tape works well for that.

ikoflexer · 23rd September 2009, 09:25 PM

You guys are fun!

Luckily all I need is an eraser in case of "chalk accidents"

As far as the baffle holes, I found this and I think it'll work just peachy

http://www.rd.com/95223/article95223.html

Now it looks almost possible.

Anyone know anything about resonance issues or anything like that?

picowallspeaker · 23rd September 2009, 10:27 PM

No problem!

Pit Hinder · 24th September 2009, 03:57 AM

ikoflexer,

be VERY VERY careful cutting the stuff - it´s awfully brittle. Swallow a pound of valium and think of hedgehogs coupling.

Resonances should not be a problem - I have heard a pair of sealed cabs made of slate and they were elephantastic...the poor man´s accelerometer (a glass of water on the box and watch the surface) kept reading zero.

23rd September 2009, 06:58 PM	#1
ikoflexer diyAudio Moderator Join Date: May 2008 Location: Toronto	Slate rock for open baffle These days people throw out slate rock blackboards in schools/universities, and I came across two pieces 5/16 (about 9mm) thick. One of them is about 4ft x 5ft, the other 4ft x 6ft. I also have a couple of FR drivers, and was wondering if it would be a really stupid idea to use the slate for the baffle. Any opinions on this? Thanks a bunch in advance.

23rd September 2009, 08:09 PM	#2
Zen Mod diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: ancient Batsch , behind Iron Curtain	you're my idol just go for it ...... and make some solid frame for them ..... __________________ my Papa is smarter than your Nelson ! tnx to clean thread ; Cook Book ; PSM LS Cook Book ; Baby Diyaudio FORUM ; BAF Forum & Gallery;I'm dumb

23rd September 2009, 08:55 PM	#4
renfrow diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Salt Lake City, Utah, USA	Or you could write 'Now Playing...' on the board... __________________ Now, we can do this the hard way, or... well, actually there's just the hard way. -- Buffy Summers (Buffy the Vampire Slayer)

23rd September 2009, 09:12 PM	#5
chrisb diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: victoria BC	You'll need some type of mounting plate/adaptor for mechanical fastening of the driver to baffle. While these could be attached to the rear of driver cut-out with epoxy or Sikaflex, etc., fabricating holes in the slate itself without fracturing could be fun. I'd suggest researching local CNC water jet cutting shops for estimate of driver cut-out and screw mounting holes. While slate for chalkboards has probably already been machined with a very smooth face on writing surface, you'd still want some type of gasket to seal and decouple the driver basket frame. Self adhesive, closed cell weatherstripping tape works well for that. __________________ you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi

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23rd September 2009, 08:29 PM	#3
analog_sa diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Sofia	It may be pretty if the drivers are extensively decoupled from the baffle, otherwise it may be a disaster. And don't tempt your visitors with chalk lying around

23rd September 2009, 09:25 PM	#6
ikoflexer diyAudio Moderator Join Date: May 2008 Location: Toronto	You guys are fun! Luckily all I need is an eraser in case of "chalk accidents" As far as the baffle holes, I found this and I think it'll work just peachy http://www.rd.com/95223/article95223.html Now it looks almost possible. Anyone know anything about resonance issues or anything like that?

24th September 2009, 03:57 AM	#8
Pit Hinder diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Hannover, Germany	ikoflexer, be VERY VERY careful cutting the stuff - it´s awfully brittle. Swallow a pound of valium and think of hedgehogs coupling. Resonances should not be a problem - I have heard a pair of sealed cabs made of slate and they were elephantastic...the poor man´s accelerometer (a glass of water on the box and watch the surface) kept reading zero.

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