Tang Band W8-1772 Impressions.

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Why would he be kidding you? Presumably he knows the behaviour of his own subwoofers.

Back OT, I wouldn't care to run any kind of back-loaded box higher than ~300Hz; the group delay would drive me mad. FWIW though, much of that top-end peaking is there to provide better HF response off-axis, so if you angle them suitably, so you're not directly on-axis with the whizzer cones, the levels will start to balance out.
 
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hm, thanks for your suggestions, but I prefer not to build new boxes. Your RDH20 looks very interesting, maybe I will build it a bit later - looks very promising. :)
Yesterday night I played a bit with high and low shelf of my equalizer plugin. I ended up with +4db at 400hz low shelf and -3db at 1khz high shelf using low Q values. Now my speakers sound much better.

I don't like my subwoofers crossed any higher then 75hz (now I use them at 65hz and mains fullrange), because bass gets slower and less tight.
 
Here are some RTA's I did. This is the unfiltered and filtered 1/2m response as I sell the speaker. In retrospect, I probably have the BSC filter set too low, but the parallel RC filter is working perfectly. Note that if you are 15* or so off axis, the rising response takes care of itself. This is typical of wide-range drivers.

As to the Q of the filters, I don't really know. I use the miniDSP and adjust things on the fly. I set the high and low shelves in the initial filter section and then take care of any other humps and bumps int XO filter section.

Bob
 

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I built up a pair of these a couple of months back.

I have liked the sound of the TB full rangers since I did the neo 4" bamboo drivers 5 years ago. When I saw the stuff on the W8-1772 I got excited.

Didn't work for the HT system so I moved to the bedroom. Don't have a lot of space in the bedroom, so I put these into 24 liter net boxes tuned to 60 Hz with a 3" dia x 4" long port. According to win isd. Haven't verified the tuning. Put the vent behind a V brace so there was no direct path from the cone to the vent.

8317734625_7175a59b1b_o.jpg


Lined the boxes with PE 3/4" sonic barrier foam and designed them so they would vent into the wall/ceiling boundary on hinged boards with turnbuckles so I could adjust the pan & tilt.

8378439360_06708fb85b_o.jpg


I am using just a modest zobel of 3.3 uF in series with 17 ohms across the driver and it takes the edge off. So far it works pretty good me thinks. I wanted to see if I could compensate for the early bass rolloff of a smaller box with the boundary gain of the wall/ceiling. So far, so good - :)

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I want to do some measurements to verify, but I have no equipment. More stuff to buy.
 
Some comments based on my experience. Different box, different installations, so maybe not appropriation to yours.

I used 1.5mH||15Ω. I found that this helped with the baffle hump as well as baffle step. Note that I typcally have the driver 24" from the front wall and several feet from the side walls. I also use 2μF=5Ω across the driver. This brings down the rising response nicely and removes any spittyness from the speaker.

YMMV
Bob
 
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Here are some RTA's I did. This is the unfiltered and filtered 1/2m response as I sell the speaker. In retrospect, I probably have the BSC filter set too low, but the parallel RC filter is working perfectly. Note that if you are 15* or so off axis, the rising response takes care of itself. This is typical of wide-range drivers.

As to the Q of the filters, I don't really know. I use the miniDSP and adjust things on the fly. I set the high and low shelves in the initial filter section and then take care of any other humps and bumps int XO filter section.

Bob

That's a nice looking freq response curve. Nicely done.
 
Nice picture!

Here are some RTA's I did. This is the unfiltered and filtered 1/2m response as I sell the speaker. In retrospect, I probably have the BSC filter set too low, but the parallel RC filter is working perfectly. Note that if you are 15* or so off axis, the rising response takes care of itself. This is typical of wide-range drivers.

As to the Q of the filters, I don't really know. I use the miniDSP and adjust things on the fly. I set the high and low shelves in the initial filter section and then take care of any other humps and bumps int XO filter section.

Bob
That's a beautiful speaker Bob! I've been told that you did a small MLTL for the Fostex FE166En. Do you still have plans/pictures? Is there a build thread for that on the forum?
 
That's a beautiful speaker Bob! I've been told that you did a small MLTL for the Fostex FE166En. Do you still have plans/pictures? Is there a build thread for that on the forum?

Sadly, the FExx6En drivers proved utterly unsuitable for resonant cabinets. As soon as the FFxx5WK drivers became available, I abandoned the FE's. I lost my pair of FE166En's to a coating experiment, but for me, not great loss.

Bob
 
W8-1772

Hi,

I know many here have used the W8-1772 in an open baffle application, but I was curious whether anyone here has tried the W8-1772 with horn such as the Azurahorns 160Hz or the Oris 150 horns.

Any idea why this driver would or would not work in the aforementioned application. I did speak to a fellow forum member who used the TB W8-1808 with the Oris 150s and was able to achieve excellent results.

Unfortunately, I am not as technically competent to be able to determine after reviewing the specs for the W8-1772 that it would be as (or more or less) suitable as the W8-1808 for front loaded horn application.

Any thoughts/comments would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
D
 
Darkheart,
nice setup, I like the woof cabs ?

And the rock under them.

How do you have the woofs hooked up ?

I see 2 nad receivers............

I've had luck running woofs alongside fullranges wide open, but the woofs naturally rolled at 200hz or so (helped baffle step / fltecher-munson curve).

Norman
 
Datubie, what did you mean by "What BR enclosures"?
Here are some pictures of building process:
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