ive tried to read the other bib thread but after 51 pages, im getting a little sick of my crt so pardon me if these questions have already been answered in the other thread.
1. are there any other hardware components besides the following required for the construction of a fully functional bib? drivers, binding posts, wire to connect binding posts to driver, dampening material. the wood portion is going to be supplied by the gentleman building the speakers so i am just concerned with everything else. did i miss anything?
2. the drivers will be enabled fostex 206e's. i am a midrange junkie and like a decent amount of bass as well. i dont like piercing highs or hot treble at all. id rather have a nicer midrange and have some rolled off highs than have any peakyness on the top end. very sensitive to that. keeping this in mind, how should i instruct the gentleman building the speaker to stuff the cabinets?
3. as far as tuning the speaker goes, ive tried to find what exactly that means online but ive failed. so here goes the noob question anyways. i know it required some test tones to be played. but thats about it. what exactly is the process and how would i go about going through it if i were to do it myself? id also like to know if i have to give the gentleman who is going to be building these things the instructions. he is an electrical engineer and his partner his a woodworker. both play the bass guitar professionally and build the bass guitars as well. so any technical jargon that is likely to go over my head will probably be understood by them.
4. there is a 80% chance the speakers will be placed on carpet. would a plinth be advisable or would spikes just be enough? if a plinth/platform is a good choice, how tall would i have it be? is there a certain design to be used? plinth + spikes perhaps? ive heard metronomes on some carpet with 0 bass and then on wooden floors with nice clean bass. trying to avoid the first case with this question.
5. in a lot of commercial designs ive seen a small chamber at the bottom of the speakers to be filled with lead shot or sand which in turn helps in the bass response dept. instead of a plinth would a small chamber under the bib itself help at all or would it screw things up?
6. would it make a difference if the binding posts were mounted on the side of the cabinet (besides looking odd of course)? the wire from the driver to the binding post could be shortened without causing any interference to the sound.
7. any building tips i should pass along to the gentlemen building these speakers? any tips for after the speakers are built?
thanks,
cj.
1. are there any other hardware components besides the following required for the construction of a fully functional bib? drivers, binding posts, wire to connect binding posts to driver, dampening material. the wood portion is going to be supplied by the gentleman building the speakers so i am just concerned with everything else. did i miss anything?
2. the drivers will be enabled fostex 206e's. i am a midrange junkie and like a decent amount of bass as well. i dont like piercing highs or hot treble at all. id rather have a nicer midrange and have some rolled off highs than have any peakyness on the top end. very sensitive to that. keeping this in mind, how should i instruct the gentleman building the speaker to stuff the cabinets?
3. as far as tuning the speaker goes, ive tried to find what exactly that means online but ive failed. so here goes the noob question anyways. i know it required some test tones to be played. but thats about it. what exactly is the process and how would i go about going through it if i were to do it myself? id also like to know if i have to give the gentleman who is going to be building these things the instructions. he is an electrical engineer and his partner his a woodworker. both play the bass guitar professionally and build the bass guitars as well. so any technical jargon that is likely to go over my head will probably be understood by them.
4. there is a 80% chance the speakers will be placed on carpet. would a plinth be advisable or would spikes just be enough? if a plinth/platform is a good choice, how tall would i have it be? is there a certain design to be used? plinth + spikes perhaps? ive heard metronomes on some carpet with 0 bass and then on wooden floors with nice clean bass. trying to avoid the first case with this question.
5. in a lot of commercial designs ive seen a small chamber at the bottom of the speakers to be filled with lead shot or sand which in turn helps in the bass response dept. instead of a plinth would a small chamber under the bib itself help at all or would it screw things up?
6. would it make a difference if the binding posts were mounted on the side of the cabinet (besides looking odd of course)? the wire from the driver to the binding post could be shortened without causing any interference to the sound.
7. any building tips i should pass along to the gentlemen building these speakers? any tips for after the speakers are built?
thanks,
cj.
G'day cj,
You should incorporate cabinet EnABL treatment to compliment your EnABL'd drivers:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1725728&postcount=1
A couple of listening impressions on cabinet EnABL:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1720882&postcount=1
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1900327&postcount=401
Happy to help with questions.
Cheers,
Alex
daunting
The BIB thread is daunting. Aside from woodworking technique some have incorporated a suprabaffle with the BIB. That's pictured at zillaspeak.
http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib-pics.asp
The stuffing treatment is in the peak then thin felt behind the driver and 1 inch polyfil at the base. Put the interconnects where you wish. I have used a screwed on bottom in case I need to adjust something. Screw on bottom has some weatherstrip to make the seal.
Other thing I have experimented with is the tweak suggested by GM: a felt "pennant" suspended diagonally in the mouth. This is done with a piece of dowel and the right triangle shape of the mouth cut to the pennant. You might want to try this to tame the lows rather than the highs.
Note: we can gladly respond in the BIB thread itself which is an ongoing thread incorporating a variety of build and user technique. It helps to keep everything together.
The BIB thread is daunting. Aside from woodworking technique some have incorporated a suprabaffle with the BIB. That's pictured at zillaspeak.
http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib-pics.asp
The stuffing treatment is in the peak then thin felt behind the driver and 1 inch polyfil at the base. Put the interconnects where you wish. I have used a screwed on bottom in case I need to adjust something. Screw on bottom has some weatherstrip to make the seal.
Other thing I have experimented with is the tweak suggested by GM: a felt "pennant" suspended diagonally in the mouth. This is done with a piece of dowel and the right triangle shape of the mouth cut to the pennant. You might want to try this to tame the lows rather than the highs.
Note: we can gladly respond in the BIB thread itself which is an ongoing thread incorporating a variety of build and user technique. It helps to keep everything together.
ill post the same questions there as well. just didnt want people yelling at me because the questions had already been answered 
thanks for the above suggestions.
ps. mods feel free to delete this thread. i have moved the questions in the big bib thread as per the above suggestion. makes more sense too.
thanks for the above suggestions.
ps. mods feel free to delete this thread. i have moved the questions in the big bib thread as per the above suggestion. makes more sense too.
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The BiB height:footprint makes for a pretty tippy speaker, one good bump while repositioning furniture and you get broken nic-nacs, dented speakers or a broken dog or child. I highly recommend a large plinth, as large as sense and aesthetics allow. A little weight at the bottom helps too. Adding stability improves sonics as well, tightens things up, the cabinet isn't fighting with the pistonic action of the driver as much.
the room that the speakers are most likely to go into are my bedroom. besides a table, chair and a huge book rack there is nothing else in the room (i sleep on the floor so no bed). no pets or kids either. parents mostly stay out of my paper ridden abode. the only question that now comes to mind is, do the bibs have to be flush against the wall for the "best" bass because the plinth will remove it a few inches from the wall. perhaps a small 4" chamber filled with lead shot would be best as it could be incorporated within the width of the cabinet without extruding far out. any thoughts?
Your tipping problems seem to be minimal.
The 203 being one of the larger drivers for the BIB (IIRC) should get the driver center up pretty high. One of our regulars suggests that for concert style ambiance, the build place the driver above what is nominally ear height. I find this better as well. And it allows for space at the bottom to put some sort of weighting in a false bottom. There is nothing that says the base of the build has to be on the floor. The side pieces on the vertical can be extended as legs and then spiked for stability. In retrospect I would have not trimmed my "legs" as much on an early BIB build as I did.
The 203 being one of the larger drivers for the BIB (IIRC) should get the driver center up pretty high. One of our regulars suggests that for concert style ambiance, the build place the driver above what is nominally ear height. I find this better as well. And it allows for space at the bottom to put some sort of weighting in a false bottom. There is nothing that says the base of the build has to be on the floor. The side pieces on the vertical can be extended as legs and then spiked for stability. In retrospect I would have not trimmed my "legs" as much on an early BIB build as I did.
All threads have had, and still do have, the ability to search them individually, so the size of the thread shouldn't hinder finding what you want if it's there, though you may have to try different words/phrases to narrow the choices down to a manageable amount.
GM
Short of actually flush mounting a speaker into a wall, I've empirically found that closer is better (CIB the BIB?
) with a point of diminishing returns being ~< 3/4", so butted up against the base moulding is close enough for me.GM
Agreed, my tower speaker or stand base of choice except with the front bar (feet) flush bottom, so there's no more than an acoustically tiny air gap at most.
GM
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