microTower bipolar ML-TL for CHR-70 or EL70

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I think I'm going to have to build a set of these. Hmmmm, next week? :)


It's kinda apples and oranges for us to compare our two build versions, as we used 3 different driver types on hand (i.e. CHR70 "gold" and "grey" for the bipoles, and EL70s for the "castles"), but I definitely liked the spacious soundstage, as well as placement flexibility of the latter.

Mine are placed on a thick carpet, which prevents the bottom firing port from breathing properly, and I ended up placing on a 1" thick slab of synthetic granite countertop. It couldn't hurt to add and inch or so to overall height to allow increase to the bottom cutout, or mount on an additional wood plate, as I think Dave shows in one of his 3-D visualizations. (much like the original EPI MicroTower II)


With the appropriate adjustments in port dimensions, either driver should work equally well in either version. Just remember that unless you're certain of your amp's ability to drive low impedance (i.e. under 2 ohms), to either wire in series, or use one channel of amplifier per driver.

Honestly, with the price of some of the decent sounding digital amps these days, that's not as costly as it sounds ( more than a few of us have more invested in bling-bling RCA connectors on our patch cords than a pair of Trends or certainly DIY chip amps )
 
It's kinda apples and oranges for us to compare our two build versions, as we used 3 different driver types on hand (i.e. CHR70 "gold" and "grey" for the bipoles, and EL70s for the "castles"), but I definitely liked the spacious soundstage, as well as placement flexibility of the latter.

Mine are placed on a thick carpet, which prevents the bottom firing port from breathing properly, and I ended up placing on a 1" thick slab of synthetic granite countertop. It couldn't hurt to add and inch or so to overall height to allow increase to the bottom cutout, or mount on an additional wood plate, as I think Dave shows in one of his 3-D visualizations. (much like the original EPI MicroTower II)


With the appropriate adjustments in port dimensions, either driver should work equally well in either version. Just remember that unless you're certain of your amp's ability to drive low impedance (i.e. under 2 ohms), to either wire in series, or use one channel of amplifier per driver.

Honestly, with the price of some of the decent sounding digital amps these days, that's not as costly as it sounds ( more than a few of us have more invested in bling-bling RCA connectors on our patch cords than a pair of Trends or certainly DIY chip amps )

Maybe use a 4*100W class-D Amplifier Board like this one?:rolleyes:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149088
 
as long as it doesn't sound hurtful, it certainly looks like a great candidate

Yeah I know what you mean. The first ones had some quality problems and had some "excessive noise" problems, but their newer 2 channel 100 watt amplifier seems to be getting some good press and DIYer are also liking it. I'm just hoping that the 4*100w amp maintains the same quality.

I do really like the idea of one channel per speaker and feel the D class amps would really do well in powering the newer MarkAudio drivers even though they are not as efficient as some full range drivers.
 
Dave, the BD pipe style with the slanted top, the slant is intended to face the rear wall I'm assuming?


Depending on the angle of slant and proximity to wall, I'd be inclined to try them firing forward. Since this series was essentially an homage to the EPI Microtower series of the 70's, this forward firing orientation would emulate that of the Model 201 -

http://www.humanspeakers.com/e/epi201.htm

except for the artifacts created by the extended side panels, this was my favorite of the early dual module 200 series - I never did get a chance to hear all the later Epicure series, on one of which I think the extension to side panels on this format was eliminated
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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Dave, the BD pipe style with the slanted top, the slant is intended to face the rear wall I'm assuming?

The intention is to suggest a zillion options and encourage people to play, use their imagination, and have fun.

An "official" BD Pipe version would have a 45 degree top with second driver firing up & backwards.

dave
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
Hi Dave, how does this Castles sound comparing to the Fonken FE127? I have a pair of Fonken and it really sounds wonderful except for the lower bass.

My opinion of course -- and comments based on treated drivers, not stock. And consider that i have been listening to Fonken for years (on & off) & CastleEL70 for a lot less time.

Fonken has more of that midrange magic, and image better. Castle is closer to the goal of full-range from a single driver. They go solidly to 40 Hz (you actually need to dial back bass withmore damping in some situations) and are more extended at the top.

I could live with either. If i had to choose just one, i'd probably pick Tysen... thank goodness i don't have to.

dave
 
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