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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Hello everybody,
two years ago i tried to build those speakers: http://www.kirchner-elektronik.de/~k...photostory.pdf now i have an unfinished pair of them since 2007. the round shapes and everything were too difficult for my skills and the tools i have available, so they look very ugly. in the beginning i really liked the sound of them and so i kept them, although they are ugly. but one fact is really disappointing: they have much too less bass response so i have to use an exta subwoofer. those two facts make me wonder if i could build new enclosures for the drivers that provide more bass response and are not that difficult to be built. perhaps i could use a horn design? i hope anybody can help me. here you can find the tsp: http://www.hifisound.de/oxid/oxid.ph...W-130-AL-8-MG/ |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Greets!
FYI, this post belongs in the LOUDSPEAKER forum where you may get more input, so please ask a moderator to move it. Regardless, between a ~44 Hz Fs and medium low Qts, it won't go low without significant EQ of some sort and due to it's relatively low efficiency it ideally needs a huge horn, so the 'small' option is to use baffle step compensation (BSC) to lower (tonally balance) its mids/highs to its LF/mid-bass band-width (BW) output with the understanding that reproducing the lower octaves will require a 'sub' system. The speaker you built already seems to have significant BSC, so doesn't appear at a glance to be a viable option, but you can always increase it with more resistance. Inserting a cheap potentiometer in the amp/speaker wiring will allow you to find how much you need (if any), then replace it with a suitable power rated non-inductive resistor. Note that adding more BSC allows a larger, lower tuned alignment, but with only 2 mm Xmax probably not a good plan unless backed into a corner. All that said, the simple 'BIB' single fold pipe horn should please without a 'sub' for all but the lowest pipe organ and HT LFE special effects if two good corners are available or at least decent loading into the 30s just up against a wall if it's a ~standard height ceiling: Terry Cain's BIB -why does it work and does anyone have those Fostex Craft Handbooks? http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib.asp http://www.quarter-wave.com/General/...BIB_Design.pdf FYI, I uploaded both the published and measured WinISD driver files: http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...-w130-al-8.wdr http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...-measured-.wdr GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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seems the best solution would be to use new drivers... or to add a passive woofer for each channel to get rid of the extra woofer... the bib approach is a bit too large for my room of about 3x4m
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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i decided to start a completely new project.
i tried a bit in winisd using kenford sbx 1620 drivers, of course they are cheap but i got very low bass response with two of them in a 60l ported box tuned to about 34hz. i wonder if this could sound any good, because a single driver of them is almost unusable with its tsp... they can be found here: http://img131.imageshack.us/i/imp65da0.jpg/ |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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any comments on this?
i thought a bit further and decided to use the two drivers in a d'appolito configuration crossed over below 1000hz to a tangband fullrange driver or so... what about that? |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Which drivers?
WRT the SBX 1620, 60 L would be for one, so 120 L for two and since tuning a reflex below ~0.7*Fs is not normally a good plan, so tuning it to ~36 Hz using at least two 10.16 cm diameter vents looks OK in a sim. GM
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