I haven't A/B'd them of course, but I'd say it'd hold up pretty well against the Mk1 125, at least as far as comparisons can be drawn given the differences in design approach & price. The suspension does limit travel before you bounce the VC off the back-plate, which is useful. Certainly with the kind of hammering I dole out on occasion. 
A pair in series works pretty well.
A pair in series works pretty well.gm: I meant the preffered dimensions tab.
I'd use the suggested dimensions, but what is the other one for?
Playing with values and better furniture integration?
I'm not dead set on the driver though. CHR-70 would be 40€ cheaper the pair. On the other hand I'm a modding guy and trying some EnAble stuff on the fe's would be a thrill.
About the CHR-70, they seem to have a high Qts of 0.65. I thought for horngesigns lower Qts was preffered?!
I'm about 550 posts into the BiB thread. It's really cluttered, so I hope I didn't miss too much. One thing I noticed though.
MDF seems to be not recommended due to resonance.
Is there a way to mitigate this problem, or should I go with ply straight away. Expensive wood is not possible for my students budget.
thanks alot again. This thread did clear a whole lot up.
For any newbee reading this thread: the wikipedia page about speaker enclosures will help alot.
I'd use the suggested dimensions, but what is the other one for?
Playing with values and better furniture integration?
I'm not dead set on the driver though. CHR-70 would be 40€ cheaper the pair. On the other hand I'm a modding guy and trying some EnAble stuff on the fe's would be a thrill
.About the CHR-70, they seem to have a high Qts of 0.65. I thought for horngesigns lower Qts was preffered?!
I'm about 550 posts into the BiB thread. It's really cluttered, so I hope I didn't miss too much. One thing I noticed though.
MDF seems to be not recommended due to resonance.
Is there a way to mitigate this problem, or should I go with ply straight away. Expensive wood is not possible for my students budget
.thanks alot again. This thread did clear a whole lot up.
For any newbee reading this thread: the wikipedia page about speaker enclosures will help alot.
You can apply EnABL to the CHRs (or any other driver for that matter) if you felt so inclined, it's not a Fostex exclusive.
No, a low Q is not necessarily a requirement for a BLH. What you really want is a low mass corner (which the CHRs have) so you don't end up with a hole in the response between the horn's upper roll-off and the driver's LF roll off.
No, a low Q is not necessarily a requirement for a BLH. What you really want is a low mass corner (which the CHRs have) so you don't end up with a hole in the response between the horn's upper roll-off and the driver's LF roll off.
thats very interesting.
my amp a snubberized gainclone with regulated psu.
one LM3886 per channel at +-31V and the PSU is good to 3A.
It should be able to drive the CHRs. I like they idea of saving 40€, especially on this fun build. I also love building amps.
I'll be back to double check on the values, when I'm decided.
Learned alot thanks to you guys.
edit: could you tell me what a low mass corner means? does it depend on the moving mass?
my amp a snubberized gainclone with regulated psu.
one LM3886 per channel at +-31V and the PSU is good to 3A.
It should be able to drive the CHRs. I like they idea of saving 40€, especially on this fun build. I also love building amps
.I'll be back to double check on the values, when I'm decided.
Learned alot thanks to you guys.
edit: could you tell me what a low mass corner means? does it depend on the moving mass?
Scottmoose said:
Thanks, I hadn't checked it out first, so didn't know that they weren't in direct competition as it seems in the threads. Interesting, though fairly negative reviews of the current FR125SR here: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum.../62692-dfw-high-noon-v2-0-results-w-pics.html
My only complaint is mine needed a 2 kHz dip added, but with my hearing gone up high, can't comment on its weak HF. In a search though, I found the below measurement that 'paints' a considerably different 'picture' that mirrors these folk's observations compared to the early documents and also shows a clear need for a 2 kHz centered dip. By the same token, my hearing is still good enough to know that the big peak in the sibilance BW isn't there, so wonder if the very early ones aren't somewhat better up high than later units.
All things considered, I don't see the CHR70 as any sort of worthwhile upgrade for the HF hearing impaired unless the price differential is a big deal, so I'll pass, though based on others opinions that it has a much better HF response it makes it a better choice overall for a 'FR' app for folks who can still hear the difference.
GM
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Lifthanger said:
You're welcome!
So it would seem for folks who want a different baffle or depth dim. I've never used it as I have my own much less feature laden one that doesn't have this option and neither does the copy I saved from the website way back when.
Speaker cab construction in most cases is all about stiffness and since stiffness increases with the cube of thickness, a 1.125" MDF thickness ~matches the stiffness of 0.75" (19 mm) no-void plywood, so you could laminate MDF to save some $$, but it will be much heavier and more labor to build as the trade-off.
Considering a small 'FR' driver's modest output combined with a relatively small horn though, braced 0.5" (13 mm) no-void plywood should be OK. If inexpensive stock width white pine boards can approximate the calc'd dims or larger, then with bracing this is an option also. WRT bracing, dowels are preferred, though Masonite dividers should be OK as long as they don't unduly disrupt horn action.
GM
Scottmoose said:
To elaborate, a low mass corner is desirable to keep the mids from coming out of the horn loud enough to audibly comb filter with the driver's output, though I guess if it was bad enough the cancellations could be perceived as a hole in the response. Normally though, folks will put a very efficient driver with a high mass corner into a horn that once damped doesn't have enough HF gain BW to fill in all the way to the driver's mass corner which causes a measurable dip in the response.
GM
thanks again for all the input.
at the moment I'm trying to compile a list of possible drivers for my budget. The more I read, the more undecided I get.
I'll let you know as soon as I made my decision.
I also just saw the monacors, which are even cheaper, but larger drivers.
edit: I also juist found out, that the FE166E/167E are also in my budget. Choosing was so much easier with headphones.
at the moment I'm trying to compile a list of possible drivers for my budget. The more I read, the more undecided I get.
I'll let you know as soon as I made my decision.
I also just saw the monacors, which are even cheaper, but larger drivers.
edit: I also juist found out, that the FE166E/167E are also in my budget. Choosing was so much easier with headphones
.Unfortuantely the budget changed in the wrong direction.
Now I'll have to use W3-871S from tangband. Got 10 of them and I would be fine with using any number.
At the moment I'm reading about horn theory on the quarter-wave page. I hope I can build something that surpasses my tabaqs.
The thread wasn't wasted though, as I learned a lot from you guys.
If there is any suggestion for a horn design with this driver, I'd be all ears.
Now I'll have to use W3-871S from tangband. Got 10 of them and I would be fine with using any number
.At the moment I'm reading about horn theory on the quarter-wave page. I hope I can build something that surpasses my tabaqs.
The thread wasn't wasted though, as I learned a lot from you guys
.If there is any suggestion for a horn design with this driver, I'd be all ears.
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