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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Oops, I stand corrected -- apparently HornResp can model MLTL's. My apologies:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...50#post1854550 |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: New York
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http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...7-MLV-0v99.gif
The Meliva was the box i was thinking of... has one been developed for the Fostex 165/6/7/8? LOL >>> symmetrical ports above and below the driver If you like ports on top and bottom maybe you can re jigger and create a one off Meliva style box. |
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#13 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Come on Jeff... 1st spelling, Mileva, 2nd, it is for the FE127. Demetri is for FE207e (FE167 can be used, but Fonken167 is better for that driver.
How are FF165KeN auditions going? dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boulder, CO
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To my very untrained eye, Horn Response seems to factor in some quarter wave action, but not nearly to the extent that MJK's sheets do. It is more than likely that I don't know what I'm doing though.
Jeff, I'm also considering doing an OB setup similar to the Betsy +Boomer. I've got plenty of amplification, so I'd probably use a cheap proaudio crossover (for the woofers) driven by a voltage divider on the outputs of my main amp. FWIW, the folding scheme I drew is an expanding pipe (like a BIB or voigt) that is folded one time less than the folding in the Demetri or Mileva. Going vertical makes it tough to get as much length as the Demetri if you shoot for a reasonable driver and overall height. I was actually pondering a BIB folding scheme when it occurred to me, so don't think I was trying to copy Dave's (or Scott's) work. However, their work does lead me to think that the folding scheme would work. pj |
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Quote:
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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(Oops, sorry PJ, you posted while I was composing my post, so please disregard my post...)
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#17 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
![]() Your drawing of post 4 differs only in bifurcating the last half of the line instead of the 1st half. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#18 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boulder, CO
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Quote:
Quote:
Right now I'm actually giving more thought to a straight MLTL made of Sonotube. I'll have to see if my new environs harbor decent lengths of big diameter cardboard tubes. pj |
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#19 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Greets!
FWIW, I did a number of designs awhile back to see what's what and this TQWT with a ~30" wide baffle was my preferred near wall choice, so will theoretically meet your goals also. I prefer higher driver placements, but dropping it down to 36" shouldn't audibly affect performance once stuffed to suit. MathCad sim is 0.25 lbs/ft^3 polyfil evenly distributed along its length to mimic my normal layers of 1" acoustic fiberglass insulation at the top combined with lining one of any other parallel walls. GM Edit: Due to the wide baffles, the drivers should be mirror imaged with golden or acoustic ratio offsets.
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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