I am thinking of building octogonal cabinets using the Jordan 92s or fostex full range.
rear loaded cabinet type or maybe TL.
I do not have much experience so I am seeking advice regarding octogonal cab style.
acoustically it seems to make sense but I have seen very very cab built that way.
Why???
Or am I going the wrong direction and should just build a Jordan type of cabinet?
http://www.ejjordan.co.uk/systems/jx92_system.html
thx
a.
rear loaded cabinet type or maybe TL.
I do not have much experience so I am seeking advice regarding octogonal cab style.
acoustically it seems to make sense but I have seen very very cab built that way.
Why???
Or am I going the wrong direction and should just build a Jordan type of cabinet?
http://www.ejjordan.co.uk/systems/jx92_system.html
thx
a.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=113828
The more sides you have, the closer you approach a cylinder. This shape is condusive to an ML-TL.
dave
The more sides you have, the closer you approach a cylinder. This shape is condusive to an ML-TL.
dave
CSS/XBL said:Odd numbered sides help avoid parallel walls and some think that's good. I did that back in the early 80s with the original Jordan 50mm units, 4 per side.
Bob
no doubt, but beyond 5 sides, the math for calculating miter angles and dry fitting gets a bit trickier and time consuming
Octogonal cab
Actually here is where my inspiration come from;
Someone I just 'met' over the internet created some cab with the help of MJKing TL calculation table...beautiful cab, in 2008, and he was kind enough to send me some pic of them.
I am thinking of using the Jordan JX92S and recalculate the cab size (he used Pioneer Model A11EC80-02F). Actually I have no idea how to calculate that at this time but I also think of making some mod to the original idea.
Maybe using a baffle instead of open top etc.
I have sent an email to the creator requesting permission to post some of the pic he sent me, I will update this tread accordingly.
In the mean time if anyone want to comments on the JX92 choice please feel free! I first thought of using the EJJordan TL plan but then read somewhere that they might not be the best enclosure, any thoughts on that?
Cheers,
a.
Actually here is where my inspiration come from;
Someone I just 'met' over the internet created some cab with the help of MJKing TL calculation table...beautiful cab, in 2008, and he was kind enough to send me some pic of them.
I am thinking of using the Jordan JX92S and recalculate the cab size (he used Pioneer Model A11EC80-02F). Actually I have no idea how to calculate that at this time but I also think of making some mod to the original idea.
Maybe using a baffle instead of open top etc.
I have sent an email to the creator requesting permission to post some of the pic he sent me, I will update this tread accordingly.
In the mean time if anyone want to comments on the JX92 choice please feel free! I first thought of using the EJJordan TL plan but then read somewhere that they might not be the best enclosure, any thoughts on that?
Cheers,
a.
chrisb said:
the math for calculating miter angles and dry fitting gets a bit trickier and time consuming
4 sides: 180/4 = 45*
5 sides: 180/5 = 36*
6 sides: 180/6 = 30*
8 sides: 180/8 = 22.5*
9 sides: 180/9 = 20*
10 sides: 180/10 = 18*
12 sides: 180/12 = 15*
15 sides: 180/15 = 12*
etc.
Increase accuracy of these angle cuts but doing one cut up and the next down with the fence on the other side of the blade.
Re: Octogonal cab
Take either of the 2 GM ML-TLs off the Jordan site, or Jim Griffin's ML-TL ... and if we are going there, there has been some argument (mostly by me) that an Alpair 10 might be a better drop in for the JX92 than the current production JX92, but if you are going there, then Jim Griffin's A10 ML-TL might be a better starting point.
ML-TLs tend to be very tolerent of driver parms thou, so whichever way you go will likely work out fine.
dave
Coyote said:I am thinking of using the Jordan JX92S and recalculate the cab size
Take either of the 2 GM ML-TLs off the Jordan site, or Jim Griffin's ML-TL ... and if we are going there, there has been some argument (mostly by me) that an Alpair 10 might be a better drop in for the JX92 than the current production JX92, but if you are going there, then Jim Griffin's A10 ML-TL might be a better starting point.
ML-TLs tend to be very tolerent of driver parms thou, so whichever way you go will likely work out fine.
dave
octognal cabinets
Scroll down a few to see my eight-siders. Pioneer Model A11EC80-02F Driver in a TL
http://www.quarter-wave.com/Gallery/Gallery.html
I used the tape and glue method (no clamps) and the joints are perfect.
BTW I used Martin King's alignment tables as the starting and ending points for my design.
Hilly-wa
Scroll down a few to see my eight-siders. Pioneer Model A11EC80-02F Driver in a TL
http://www.quarter-wave.com/Gallery/Gallery.html
I used the tape and glue method (no clamps) and the joints are perfect.
BTW I used Martin King's alignment tables as the starting and ending points for my design.
Hilly-wa
Re: octognal cabinets
Those sure are pretty
dave
Hilly-wa said:my eight-siders. Pioneer Model A11EC80-02F Driver in a TL
Those sure are pretty
dave
...
Ok,
I just fell off my chair,
Dave
The pic you have provided for the octogone is one of the pic that this guy sent me earlier this week (or so)! Maybe he is a member here too???
I saw this pic from another site (i Think) and emailed him for more information!
They sure are nice.
a.
Ok,
I just fell off my chair,
Dave
The pic you have provided for the octogone is one of the pic that this guy sent me earlier this week (or so)! Maybe he is a member here too???
I saw this pic from another site (i Think) and emailed him for more information!
They sure are nice.
a.
Re: ...
His is post #10 in this thread.
dave
Coyote said:The pic you have provided for the octogone is one of the pic that this guy sent me earlier this week (or so)! Maybe he is a member here too???
His is post #10 in this thread.
dave
MJL21193 said:
4 sides: 180/4 = 45*
5 sides: 180/5 = 36*
6 sides: 180/6 = 30*
8 sides: 180/8 = 22.5*
9 sides: 180/9 = 20*
10 sides: 180/10 = 18*
12 sides: 180/12 = 15*
15 sides: 180/15 = 12*
etc.
Increase accuracy of these angle cuts but doing one cut up and the next down with the fence on the other side of the blade.
Well yes, calculating the angles and even cutting all the pieces at the same setting is one thing, but getting them exactly right for seamless structural joints can be a challenge the first couple of times.
Also, my earlier post wasn't clear, but I was really responding to Bob's comment re odd number of sides. Above 5, I imagine it would get more than a bit time consuming to accurately set the saw for the calculated angles, and fit the parts for tight joints
7 sides = 25.71*
11 sides = 16.36*
13 sides = 13.46*
etc.
Of course this is all just bloviation on my part, as I've never been inspired or commissioned to try anything more elaborate than a six sided box
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
the 1" MDF carcasses for these were not just folded and masking-taped together
chrisb said:
...as I've never been inspired or commissioned to try anything more elaborate than a six sided box
You need to stretch your creative legs - the fun you are missing.
MJL21193 said:
You need to stretch your creative legs - the fun you are missing.
Oh, I had at least a decade's worth of fun with the Tannoy Churchill clones.
Jordan JX92s
Ok,
Well,
So lets pretend that,
with a Pioneer Model A11EC80-02F of 4.5inch
Using the alignment tables one comes up with SL = SO = 68.741 sq. inches, and a corrected length of 45.193 inches tall.
4 sides of 5-5/8 inches with 4 sides of 2-1/16 inches maps out to the correct SO, and we cut 22.5-degree cuts.
(not my numbers)
Switching to the Jordan at 5.5inch and if one would want to keep the cabinet at a Max of ...say 4ft (48inch = lenght of a sheet), how can I calculate the square inches required and how to calculate the size of the 16 boards (2x8boards) needed if I wanted to keep the same board size ratio as per the original Pioneer box?
I am a bit lost at the moment with all this
I am planning on using 5/8 high quality birch ply.
Cheers,
Thx you all.
Ok,
Well,
So lets pretend that,
with a Pioneer Model A11EC80-02F of 4.5inch
Using the alignment tables one comes up with SL = SO = 68.741 sq. inches, and a corrected length of 45.193 inches tall.
4 sides of 5-5/8 inches with 4 sides of 2-1/16 inches maps out to the correct SO, and we cut 22.5-degree cuts.
(not my numbers)
Switching to the Jordan at 5.5inch and if one would want to keep the cabinet at a Max of ...say 4ft (48inch = lenght of a sheet), how can I calculate the square inches required and how to calculate the size of the 16 boards (2x8boards) needed if I wanted to keep the same board size ratio as per the original Pioneer box?
I am a bit lost at the moment with all this
I am planning on using 5/8 high quality birch ply.
Cheers,
Thx you all.
Planet 10
Dave,
Thank you for the suggestion
"Take either of the 2 GM ML-TLs off the Jordan site, or Jim Griffin's ML-TL"
The EJJordan vtl transmission line is on my agenda to build at one point!
I am looking at reviews of this cabinet and other modified versions. Suggestions welcome on the Jordan VTL.
This could bring in the question of full range spkr, at 88db efficiency the JX92s might be a challenge to drive with a tube amp.
Alain
Dave,
Thank you for the suggestion
"Take either of the 2 GM ML-TLs off the Jordan site, or Jim Griffin's ML-TL"
The EJJordan vtl transmission line is on my agenda to build at one point!
I am looking at reviews of this cabinet and other modified versions. Suggestions welcome on the Jordan VTL.
This could bring in the question of full range spkr, at 88db efficiency the JX92s might be a challenge to drive with a tube amp.
Alain
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