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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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Well, then I won't bother cutting holes for the port and all that :-)
What about my thought of dividing both of the two cabinets on the drawing into two each, dividing them between the magnets that unfortunately won't come any closer to each other than about 15 cm. Dividing the boxes should increase the width:depth ratio which is preferably - if I get it all right? |
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#12 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Knoxville, TN
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Quote:
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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Okay, I think I get what you're talking about. Is it possible that you can drop a link to such a brace - just to be sure?
Thanks a lot for the help by the way, it's really apreciated :-) |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Knoxville, TN
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http://homepage.mac.com/planet10/CSS...aled-pass1.pdf
The 42 liter push-pus box is pretty much what your will look like only smaller. The brace will need to have cut-outs so as to not act as a baffle, only a brace. A lip may not be necessary as the magnet can't be that heavy on a 6 x 9 and will be supported from the contact with the brace. This will also tighten up the whole box as the baffle will not have to span as far. |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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Great, thanks a lot!
I think I'll just have to get my hands dirty working :-) If there's any trouble, I'll come back asking more dumb questions. This is my first build, so I'm learning all the time. |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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Col, I don't think I'll be able to get my hands on any 400µF capacitators, but I should be able to get some 470µF. Based on my calculations with 4 ohm speakers - that will cut somewhere about 80-85 Hz.
What voltage does these caps need to be as a minimum? I'm running the amp on 12V. I have a few electrolyt capacitators at home already that is 470µF, but just 6.3V. I'm quite certain that these aren't big enough, but what values would I need to be sure I'll work out best? Would it be something like these: http://www.el-supply.dk/?Gid=30&VNr=211F3471 ...they are 470µF 35V? I won't be able to get those before next week and I'm going to do the building and construction the next few days, so will I be able to maybe just test at a low volume with the capacitors I mentioned above - 470µF 6.3V? |
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#17 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Note that the cap needs to be non-polar.
As well due to the resonant peak in the impedance, the calculation of cut-off is no-where near text book. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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Hmm, for me it doesn't seem possible to find bipolar 470µF caps anywhere?
I don't want to cut off all the bass - just whats nessesary in order not to get the distortion. I think I'll just mount the speakers without any caps, and see how it goes. Then maybe I can use a tone-generator to find out what frequency to cut at. |
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#19 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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I've used 1000u caps back-to-back before. But as Dave says, it's a bit naff.
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www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
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I got my caps from here:
http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp...T&SUBCATID=877 I guess you could mail-order, partsexpress.com would have them too, probably cheaper. Also, a PLLXO crossover might be more appropriate. You can adjust the input on the amp6 with resistors so adding a PLLXO might be a good option. http://www.t-linespeakers.org/tech/f...ssiveHLxo.html I think Dave knows better about this option though? col.
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http://www.minirig.org.au |
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