Hi all.
I'm new to this forum, and new to speakers building as well, so please bear with me
I've been wanting to get into speaker building for quite a while, and when I recently heard a pair of fullrange back loaded horns at a friends, I decided that this is the way to go.
My problem is that I am somewhat limited with regard to space, so the speakers will have to be at most 34cm x 28cm x 75cm (WxDxH) (that would be 13"2/5 x 11" x 29"1/2 for the metrically challenged).
All the designs I've seen online are much bigger than this, suggesting to me that it may simply be impossible to achieve reasonable results with BLHs this small.
So my question is: Is it possible to build BLHs this small, or should I just give up and go for a more conventional speaker type? And if it is possible, are there any designs out there, or will I have to make my own?
As for drivers, I may be able to get my hands on a pair of Coral Flat 6'es, which I believe are pretty decent.
I'm new to this forum, and new to speakers building as well, so please bear with me
I've been wanting to get into speaker building for quite a while, and when I recently heard a pair of fullrange back loaded horns at a friends, I decided that this is the way to go.
My problem is that I am somewhat limited with regard to space, so the speakers will have to be at most 34cm x 28cm x 75cm (WxDxH) (that would be 13"2/5 x 11" x 29"1/2 for the metrically challenged
). All the designs I've seen online are much bigger than this, suggesting to me that it may simply be impossible to achieve reasonable results with BLHs this small.
So my question is: Is it possible to build BLHs this small, or should I just give up and go for a more conventional speaker type? And if it is possible, are there any designs out there, or will I have to make my own?
As for drivers, I may be able to get my hands on a pair of Coral Flat 6'es, which I believe are pretty decent.
Hello Suposs,
There's a Coral thread here;
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=59879
Interesting page here;
http://www.frugal-horn.com/FH-history.html
Enough to get you started
Jem
There's a Coral thread here;
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=59879
Interesting page here;
http://www.frugal-horn.com/FH-history.html
Enough to get you started
Jem
I have looked quite a bit at the Frugal Horn site before posting, which was exactly what led me to believe that smallish horns are impossible, as none of their designs (well, almost none), fit my size requirements.
Any links to introductory rear loaded horn theory will also be greatly appreciated.
Best regards
Suposs
Any links to introductory rear loaded horn theory will also be greatly appreciated.
Best regards
Suposs
It is definitely possible to build a small cabinet for horns you just sacrifice low frequency extention. You may not realize it from the gargantuan beasts people are showing on the forums but it is quite possible to make a small tapped horn subwoofer to give you that lower bass you lose with the smaller main speaker. If you maximize the spl from the horn and add a front horn to bring the higher frequencies up to match you can make a nice reasonable sized speaker with unbelievable dynamics, which is what horns are all about. I could definitely design something to fit within your criteria if I had the specs of the drivers. I don't know what drivers are available in your country but the 6.5" Tangband subwoofer makes an excellent tapped horn in a very reasonable sized cabinet. Of course the bigger you go the deeper it goes but a 30hz horn could be well under 2 cubic feet (56 liters).
Sounds very interesting, I'll definitely have to read up on tapped horns. Looks like it is a pretty new (or at least unexplored) technology.
The main problem with the D-10 (Buckie), linked to above, and a lot of the other compact horn designs, is that they are all quite narrow and deep, whereas I need the opposite. I definitely understand why you would want to make them that way, but it just won't fit my requirements. I guess I'll have to read up on som theory, and start sketching, to see what's possible to fit into my needs.
The main problem with the D-10 (Buckie), linked to above, and a lot of the other compact horn designs, is that they are all quite narrow and deep, whereas I need the opposite. I definitely understand why you would want to make them that way, but it just won't fit my requirements. I guess I'll have to read up on som theory, and start sketching, to see what's possible to fit into my needs.
Suposs
If you could squeeze another 10cm into your width, you could try something like the Lowther Acousta...?
http://www.lowtherloudspeakers.com/drawings/acousta116.pdf
If the width was a problem, you could mod the cabinet slightly. A Fostex 206E would work nicely in this cab if you needed to keep costs down.
Andrew.
If you could squeeze another 10cm into your width, you could try something like the Lowther Acousta...?
http://www.lowtherloudspeakers.com/drawings/acousta116.pdf
If the width was a problem, you could mod the cabinet slightly. A Fostex 206E would work nicely in this cab if you needed to keep costs down.
Andrew.
How about something like the Cornu Spiral Horn?
In the wide/shallow vane, the Mileva ML-Voight pipe (bottom of P10 page) would be a good starting point. You could use a different driver that would result in something smaller.
In the wide/shallow vane, the Mileva ML-Voight pipe (bottom of P10 page) would be a good starting point. You could use a different driver that would result in something smaller.
Using a horn designed for a different driver and puttng what you have in it doesn't give optimal results if you know what driver you want and how much space you have, your best bet is to plug the driver parameters into hornresp and design the best compriomise. If you need some help I would be glad to offer it.
Wow, thanks for all the suggestions.
The Lowthers were actually some of the first designs I considered, but they are all just a tad too large. But as Atilsley said, I might be able to tweak them just a bit to make them fit.
Another option I'm considering is this Voight tube (the language is Danish, but the drawing should be universal), which fits my requirements perfectly. I believe it was designed for the Coral Flat 6 or Beta 6, but I guess it could be tweaked to work with other drivers as well.
One slight problem is that the mouth is facing upwards, and I'd like it to face outward, but I guess this should be possible to change as well?
What's your opinions on a design like this?
I definitely hear what you're saying, and I really would like to design the speakers from the bottom up. And any help you'll offer will be hugely appreciated.
For now though, I'm mainly looking for inspiration. Besides, I still need to figure out which drivers to get. I've got an offer of some cheap vintage Philips drivers, but I'm still hoping to get my hands on a pair of Corals.
atilsley said:
The Lowthers were actually some of the first designs I considered, but they are all just a tad too large. But as Atilsley said, I might be able to tweak them just a bit to make them fit.
Another option I'm considering is this Voight tube (the language is Danish, but the drawing should be universal), which fits my requirements perfectly. I believe it was designed for the Coral Flat 6 or Beta 6, but I guess it could be tweaked to work with other drivers as well.
One slight problem is that the mouth is facing upwards, and I'd like it to face outward, but I guess this should be possible to change as well?
What's your opinions on a design like this?
brsanko said:
I definitely hear what you're saying, and I really would like to design the speakers from the bottom up. And any help you'll offer will be hugely appreciated.
For now though, I'm mainly looking for inspiration. Besides, I still need to figure out which drivers to get. I've got an offer of some cheap vintage Philips drivers, but I'm still hoping to get my hands on a pair of Corals.
Those look like nice drivers. The only trouble is to design an enclosure you need a full set of specs. What they have there doesn't tell you much. I would imagine enough people have used the Corals that some measurement are probably available. I have the Woofer Tester 3 from Parts Express which is really nice but that doesn't help much when your drivers are over seas.
These specs are for the 7063/M4S, not the 7063/M8, not sure what's the difference between the two.
Anyway, I'm sure I can find someone who can measure these things. What kind of equipment do you need for the measurements anyway?
Anyway, I'm sure I can find someone who can measure these things. What kind of equipment do you need for the measurements anyway?
well one has a 4 in the name and the other has an 8 so I'm guessing the difference is the impedance. While the impedance will make the numbers look very different it typically doesn't change their relationships to each other. So it is POSSIBLE that they may work well in the same enclosure but not for sure.
Well the simplest equipment would be the WT3 from PE ($100). It's the only method I've used so I'm not quite sure what else you'd need otherwise. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=390-803
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.