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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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The software is only available in Japanese language.
However you can do exactly the same process (automatic compensation + manual equalizing) if you integrate an external digital equalizer to your existing audio system; http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/DEQ2496.aspx (English site) No computers necessary, Digital In/Out as well as Analog In/Out possible approx. 40,000.- YEN in Japan Although this device is originally designed for music creators, many Japanese audio freaks are enjoying it quite comfortably. http://audiolike.exblog.jp/ (Japanese site) You need a microphone (option) to perform the automatic compensation. |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
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This is very impressive work, the idea of boosting to get the low end was something I was thinking about with a 2-way design and had not thought of the full range driver being at all suitable. You have shown that this is not only possible, but works very well.
__________________
"The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." Robert M Pirsig. |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Honestly, I cannot be really sure whether I'm doing the right thing (Ifm sure many of you have the same feelings).
To be more confident, I did simple measurements as below; Testing method 1) Generates WAV files containing several sinusoidal signals (30/40/50/70/100Hz, with 0/-6 dB) 2) Playbacks the test files with my usual amplifier volume position (approx. 1/5 angular position, full power=60W(spec.data)). 3) Records the sounds via a microphone just in front of a speaker. 4) Compares the recoded signals with the original signals. . . see the results in my Blog. http://lean-audio.blogspot.com/ . . In other words, gmaximum low boostingh means greduction of mid-high range from the maximum powered condition of the driver". Therefore basically I would recommend to use Alpair6 or CHR-70 for this kind of extreme boosting applications, with which you could have much more boosting potential (see below table). driver / X-max(1way) / max. Power Alpair5 / 2.5mm / 12W Aplair6 / 5.0mm / 30W CHR-70 / 4.5mm / 40W (data from Mark Audio home page) |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
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IMHO you would not need any bass boosting with the Alüpair 6 in a Bass Reflex box.
Alpair 6 Bass Reflex Bookshelf And it will never be able to replace a subwoofer if you want it down to 20Hz or so. But then not every subwoofer would do 20Hz anyway. Patrick |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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And IMO, the CHR70 may not be the best candidate. When pushed, the CHR70 goes wonkers pretty quick. And in the dual-chamber reflex box, F3~45Hz. Pretty impressive as is. I played around with the Creative EQ in my PC and I was not impressed with the results, even at low levels and low boost. Now there are many unquantifiable factors and it was less then scientific but sonic output got muddy very quick. To make it happen, it will definitely take better source equipment than I'm using.
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