TangBand W4-1052SD 4" FR

[901Fixer]

Has anyone experimented with this? It is slightly smaller in diameter than the other W4 models and will fit in an enclosure I have that needs new drivers so I'm considering it. Some good reviews on PE but in a box larger than what I have.

[zayne742]

There are two pairs of these in my possesion awaiting a project. I did build a pair of BIB's last year with these in mind. Once the cabinets bere built one was tested. The sound was alright. The bass was not quite as adequate as I was looking for, and the top end seemed a bit distorted with the type of music that they were tested with. Now I should mention, there was another set of drivers that I really wanted to use since these were to be used more for home theatre and low leve tunes, so maybe I was already conditioned to like the other drivers. Since then, they have been tested in a few boxes, and the sound is not terrible. They really will need something to round out the top end. Right now the next project is looking like these in a dipole congiguration, maybe in a set of Cyburg's Needles.

What kind of box are you thinking of dropping them into?

[901Fixer]

I have an older Cadillac with the factory Delco Bose system. I'd like to replace the front Bose drivers that are in a vented enclosure in the door. They used to sound really great, so much so that I've kept them and installed a resistor in series so I can run them with a Pioneer car amp. The W4-1320SB are a touch to large in diameter, the 1052 would fit just right.

Whats the smallest volume enclosure you think would work with these? I need to measure what I've got but I'll need to do it with liquid as the enclosure is a rather odd U-shape. Even if they don't work in the Bose enclosure I could run them IB on the door I suppose. They are nice and affordable either way. A car environment is harsh and usually ruins much of the hi-fidelity.

[fwater]

I've had a little experience with factory Bose systems and replacemant of thier speakers, most recently an Audi. It was an absolute disaster. My friend tried the Pioneer A11 and then a Tang Band W4-656 (IIRC). Though Bose gets plenty of bashing around here (and many times rightfully so), this is not thier fault. Those complicated or unusual enclosures in the doors and elswhere were engineered to get every last bit of performance out of the original driver. I am perfectly aware of this, but my friend and I decided to take a couple of shots in the dark for a suitable replacement. It wouldn't be so dissapointing, I suppose, if the aftermarket drivers dropped in, but that is far from the case...

I have fiddled with plenty of other Bose or Infinity or whoever's factory stereos in cars with various amounts of success, but a common factor is always spending WAY more time and money than originally (and reasonably) planned. Be preparred to go in for the long haul if you want better sound, and that might include scrapping the whole factory setup. But then you'll have something about 14 times better than what you started with IMHO.

As far as the W4-1052, they are indeed a little "dark", and thier high x-max lends to people like you or I discoverring the doppler effect. These are best used as a woofer / midbass / midrange / whatever you would like to call them. I wouldn't be afraid of the usual Fostex suspects, the rising response found in some of them makes them good candidates for listenning of-axis. For some reason, I suspect that they might be even more finicky with enclosure needs, so beware of going in deep...

[901Fixer]

My first attempt at replacing the Bose drivers was a disaster as well. I installed some 4" Polk coaxial speakers after hacking up the frame and some of the enclosure. They sounded terrible. I put the 1ohm drivers back in and currently run a large 3ohm 50watt resistor on the negative lead. It works and sounds pretty good still but I like to tinker and have wanted to replace the drivers for years now.

Maybe I can do some of the eNabling procedures like applying puzzlekote to the cone to help bring back some life. They have the cloth surrounds and are still in good physical shape. I also hope to replace this car soon even though it only has 235,000 miles on it so any modification isn't the most cost effective path. She has just been too good to me over the years.

[fwater]

The absolute best sounding option is the one you like best. Nobody can argue with that, whether it's the guy with 8 subwoofers and $50 bookshelf speakers or the guy with the horns or 5-ways or whatever. If the factory Bose speakers sound goo to you and you're not afraid to change the sound, go for it. I love to "hot-rod" anything. Cone treatments like puzzlcoat may marginally tame some breakups, causing the higher frequencies to sound more alive. If the pole piece is not vented, putting a hole in the dustcap or removing it altogether could help alleviate any resonances present there. Maybe basket dampenning like Duct Seal? Go ahead, it's fun to hear what happens with cheap mods.

Be advised that if you don't like results, Bose replacements are insanely priced (as you might already know).

[tsmith1315]

Originally posted by 901Fixer
I need to measure what I've got but I'll need to do it with liquid as the enclosure is a rather odd U-shape. Even if they don't work in the Bose enclosure I could run them IB on the door I suppose. They are nice and affordable either way. A car environment is harsh and usually ruins much of the hi-fidelity.

I've dealt with a few of the OEM/Bose systems in the past as well. Front enclosures were typically around 5 liters. The port isn't difficult to remove neatly with a die grinder or moto-tool.

While the Bose drivers were well-integrated, they did rely on their fair share of parametric EQ. I had good success reusing the enclosures with a variety of (older) 4" and 5" car audio drivers, adding external amps and crossovers.

[HareBrained]

Originally posted by fwater
Though Bose gets plenty of bashing around here (and many times rightfully so), this is not thier fault.

Oh but it is their fault. They use proprietary low-ohm drivers, proprietary head-unit outputs, and proprietary, hidden processor and amp, to create an average sounding ICE and where the buyer is over charged for the "privilege" of having that crap in the car. And because the car companies are more concerned about name rather than performance, they have continued to allow Bose to push their agenda. Sorry for the rant.

[fwater]

Originally posted by HareBrained


Oh but it is their fault. They use proprietary low-ohm drivers, proprietary head-unit outputs, and proprietary, hidden processor and amp, to create an average sounding ICE and where the buyer is over charged for the "privilege" of having that crap in the car. And because the car companies are more concerned about name rather than performance, they have continued to allow Bose to push their agenda. Sorry for the rant.

I agree, but I was looking at it from a simpler point of view. The results of replacing the stock speakers of unknown parameters with random drivers are the fault of the installer (me). A direct replacement would restore the system to original condition, which is fine with the OP.

Bose is guilty of fanatastic albeit misleading marketting, and of producing an inferior product at premium prices. Anybody who likes it, fine, anybody who touts its superiority and holds high regard, then I have a problem. But let's not turn this into another one of "those threads". I say hot rod those drivers to the OP and see what you come up with. Who knows...

[mrybczyn]

If you're going to replace the Bose speakers, I would suggest replacing the amplifier as well. Panasonic used to make some Tripath based amplifiers, which you can still find on ebay if you look around.

I used a Panasonic 280W head unit in combination with 2 Pioneer BOFUs and 2 tweets to replace the Bose setup in my car (which was originally 8" Bose speakers). The sound is much improved.

Cheers,
Mitch