update..
So, I have decided (at last) on two options.
1) I use a single Alpha with the 206, and an active X-over, plus 2 amps, thereby being able to adjust the crossover point AND the output from each driver, hopefully therefore being ablt match them...?
2) 2 X Alphas and the 206, and maybe STILL use an active X-over to help with the matching etc...?
What say you good people?
So, I have decided (at last) on two options.
1) I use a single Alpha with the 206, and an active X-over, plus 2 amps, thereby being able to adjust the crossover point AND the output from each driver, hopefully therefore being ablt match them...?
2) 2 X Alphas and the 206, and maybe STILL use an active X-over to help with the matching etc...?
What say you good people?
Having been there, my recommendation is to use two Alpha 15A woofers with the Fostex FE-206E. The dynamics you get will be amazing, you can move a lot of air with very little displacement very quickly. Start active and transition to passive later if the driver levels are close to equal. This can be accomplished on a very reasonably sized baffle.
aquapiranha said:
Hi Steve,
Yup, I found the e-mail. April was a very hectic month in my house so I kind of forgot what went on with audio and speaker building.
So if you have two Alpha's per side I would wire them in parallel. I can think of three ways to accomplish this set-up.
1. Run two speaker wires from each of the amp's positive and negative terminals and connect one to each woofer at the appropriate positive or negative spade connector. This will use a lot of wire.
2. Run one set of speaker wires to a pair of binding posts and then connect each of the Alphas to the binding posts in parallel. So the positive binding post has two wires connected, one each from the positive speaker spade connector of each speaker. Same for the negative side. This is what I did when I had a similar set-up.
3. Run one set of speaker wires from the amp to a pair of binding posts and then connect one of the Alphas to the binding posts. Then use a pair of jumper wires between the two Alphas connecting the positive spade connectors together and then the negative spade connectors together.
I think either way would work it would be a matter of preference and flexibility.
Just found this thread, and I'm hoping to revive it.
Is there a significant difference between the 206E and the 207E in this application? The reason I ask is that I'm interested in the Bob Brines MLTL for the 207, but while I'm waiting for the cabinets to fall out of the sky or otherwise miraculously appear without my usual ham-handed intervention, I do from time to time happen across the two pairs of Alphas in the den, and think about using them. If 207 and Alpha works out similarly to 206 and Alpha, I may have my answer.
Thanks in advance - Pat
Is there a significant difference between the 206E and the 207E in this application? The reason I ask is that I'm interested in the Bob Brines MLTL for the 207, but while I'm waiting for the cabinets to fall out of the sky or otherwise miraculously appear without my usual ham-handed intervention, I do from time to time happen across the two pairs of Alphas in the den, and think about using them. If 207 and Alpha works out similarly to 206 and Alpha, I may have my answer.
Thanks in advance - Pat
Keeping in mind that I have no direct experience with either the FE-206E or the FE-207E, and I have done nothing in the way of simulations, my guess is that a FE-207E full range driver combined with two Alpha 15A woofers on an OB would work very well. If I had the driver sitting around and wanted to try something, that would be a very interesting combination and I would definitely give it a try.
I am currently listening to baffles using the 206e, supported with 1 alpha 15" and 1 altec 416b 15" per side (i had them laying around). Everything is run with SET monoblocks, with a simple coil cutting the top of the 15"s around 250hz. The rig is literally thrown together with old 1" MDF computer table tops. This setup was a test based off everything i was reading about OB, especially MJK's experiences. And i have to say this is the best sound i have heard, for my taste. I dont think I could go back to anything else. But there are a couple things I would like to try.
1. the new Tang Band W8-1808 instead of the 206e
2. 2 altec 416's per side vrs the Alphas (they add something sweet to the sound, I saw Pass was using a 416 at RMAF)
3. i've also heard alot about the Vistaton, and of course Lowthers (but cant afford them)
4. bi-amp
I also built the same system using only 1 alpha 15" per side and different baffle size, which was really good, but the 2 15" is the way to go to match the 206 efficiency. I think you will be suprised with the sound you get.
1. the new Tang Band W8-1808 instead of the 206e
2. 2 altec 416's per side vrs the Alphas (they add something sweet to the sound, I saw Pass was using a 416 at RMAF)
3. i've also heard alot about the Vistaton, and of course Lowthers (but cant afford them)
4. bi-amp
I also built the same system using only 1 alpha 15" per side and different baffle size, which was really good, but the 2 15" is the way to go to match the 206 efficiency. I think you will be suprised with the sound you get.
h-frame
for the bass, it's also possible to use an h-frame with one driver, like in MJK project 8
http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project08/Passive_Crossover.pdf
http://www.quarter-wave.com/OBs/U_and_H_Frames.pdf
for the bass, it's also possible to use an h-frame with one driver, like in MJK project 8
http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project08/Passive_Crossover.pdf
http://www.quarter-wave.com/OBs/U_and_H_Frames.pdf
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