Where do I cross over a TB W4-1320SJ and a Dayton ND16FA-6?

[brookbh]

The 125fr and 125wrt are now $50 and $40 at creativesound.ca and have more designs floating around for them now.

Also they sell AC ribbons and their own line of ribbons.

[Scottmoose]

Why is it, I wonder, that people will insist on sticking drivers into boxes that aren't designed for them?

Q on the 103 is far higher than Fostex's claims BTW. The cabinet is also shortly being replaced.

[G]

Originally posted by Scottmoose
Why is it, I wonder, that people will insist on sticking drivers into boxes that aren't designed for them?

Because the driver they were designed for have a limited xmax and therefore are limited as to what kind of music can be played through them?

Originally posted by Scottmoose Q on the 103 is far higher than Fostex's claims BTW. The cabinet is also shortly being replaced.

Bigger or smaller?

[Scottmoose]

That's because they were specifically designed for a limited range of music. If they don't suit, then I would suggest that a speaker more appropriate to the requirements is in order. Stuffing a different driver into a cabinet designed & voiced for the characteristics of a specific unit (which is not all T/S work, even when published specs owe more to reality than the works of Tolkien) is rarely a good idea.

Same size. FWIW Lotus, with the Mark Audio CHR-70 might suit you better. The driver's 4.5mm travel (one way) and frankly worrying on the VFM scale. Admittedly, the cabinet is a little deeper though -10in rather than 6.5in. It'll take a second driver per enclosure too if you feel so inclined, and need more dynamic headroom.

[G]

Originally posted by Scottmoose
That's because they were specifically designed for a limited range of music. If they don't suit, then I would suggest that a speaker more appropriate to the requirements is in order. Stuffing a different driver into a cabinet designed & voiced for the characteristics of a specific unit (which is not all T/S work, even when published specs owe more to reality than the works of Tolkien) is rarely a good idea.

Same size. FWIW Lotus, with the Mark Audio CHR-70 might suit you better. The driver's 4.5mm travel (one way) and frankly worrying on the VFM scale. Admittedly, the cabinet is a little deeper though -10in rather than 6.5in. It'll take a second driver per enclosure too if you feel so inclined, and need more dynamic headroom.

Hi Scott. I understand what you are saying. I can't use the CHR-70 because it doesn't have the sensitivity that I need with a small SE tube amp.

I guess I will just build a pair of Tabaqs which reportedly work well with the 1320. I do have a question though. If I were to build the Tabaq from 19mm MDF or ply instead of 12mm it will end up elongating the vent by about 7mm. What will that do to the tuning of the cabinet?

[Scottmoose]

It'll lower it by a couple of Hz; probably not such as to be noticable.

[G]

Originally posted by Scottmoose
It'll lower it by a couple of Hz; probably not such as to be noticable.

Thanks Scott. BTW do you have any experience with the RT1C-A ribbon tweeter from HiVi that I mentioned earlier in this thread. I have read numerous times posts saying that the 1320 is a great driver but needs a tweeter crossed over high in order to really shine. I planned on crossing the tweeter over somewhere in the 16KhZ - 18KhZ rainge with either a cap or a second order xover. Do you have a opinion as to where I should start with the crossover and how steep it should be. Also how close to the driver should I mount the tweeter?