Brynn's with fe126e

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I'm planning to build my first set of speakers, I already have a pair of used fe126e fostex. I've been scouring these pages trying to decide on an enclosure that would work for me. I'm thinking that the Brynns from planet 10's website would work.
I'm very new at this ( both diy speakers and woodworking) so I was hoping everyone here could give me a little advise. First is I don't know what a 5rseries is? The plans say the 126e has a 5r series. Also I've got no way to accurately cut the wood, what do others do when they haven't got accurate cutting tools? thanks
 
The 5ohm suggestion dated from a time when the Fostex spec. for the 126 was assumed to be accurate (which it isn't) -as Dave says, in reality, you'd probably get by with 2 - 3ohms.

True enough -I built the prototype pair of Harvey's in a leaking garage, with a blunt 40 year old hand saw, a hand-drill (equally old), a square (even older), a file (ditto) a pencil and copious amounts of PVA & bathroom filler / sealant. Those are the ones with the stone-effect baffle on the FH site -they turned out OK, although I wouldn't exactly recommend it; I'm the world's worst builder. OTOH, at least Brynn isn't too hard a cabinet to build.
 
I'll be running the speakers with a 40watt el34 based tube amp. So I just put a 3-5ohm resistor on the positive wire before the speaker?
The cut I'm worried about the most would be the angled piece on the inside, what could I use to cut that? I have or have access to your basic woodworking tools ie. circular saw, jigsaw ect. But I don't have a table saw.
 
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Rdylan said:
The cut I'm worried about the most would be the angled piece on the inside, what could I use to cut that? I have or have access to your basic woodworking tools ie. circular saw, jigsaw ect. But I don't have a table saw.

A circular saw + a file can do that, but it would be even easier (althou use more wood) to build a stepped deflector -- those only need 90 degree cuts and will automatically mass load the base.

dave
 

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If your tube amp has multiple impedance taps, you could play with a combination of mis-matching that, thin (as in #24 or smaller) speaker wire and a small amount of series R.

While I personally preferred the Brynns with FE127 ( or HA FR4.5) rather than the FE126, as the saying goes, YMMV. It sounds like you have more than adequate power available - is it possible for you to experiment with running the EL34 in triode mode? I converted my Jolida 302 about 8yrs ago, and don't miss the extra power at all.
 
As I've seen mentioned here and what I've run into in Orlando is the supplier for Baltic Birch is a cabinet maker so they are able to sell you the wood cut to spec. Price can vary and even seem kinda high but a good cut makes it go together easier and look better.

On large pieces a table saw isn't much good. A large radial arm saw is the ticket and cabinet makers usually have one and/or an upright panel saw. Until you get savvy with a circular saw or jigsaw, having it cut may be your best option.
 
Drumsgreg said:
How good is the Brynn, I wanted to builded the Saburo, but I think the cab is to big for my room 20x12x8. I have Dave`s 126en to use in the speaker. Most of the music is Jazz and blues, got a deware Torii MKII amp to use with the speaker. Greg


Greg, for your application I think the FE126 is quite simply better suited to a small horn, and y'all can probably think of one from near your hood. I've recently heard a pair of these with both stock and modified drivers, and to compare them to any of the Spawn enclosures would be a disservice to either designer.

While I've not yet heard a pair of Saburos, it's probably safe to extrapolate a fair degree of listening to several designs from the same "family". FWIW, it'd be my opinion the Saburo would handily outperform a lot of enclosures with the FE126, but that your room is definitely too small for them to fully integrate.

Having said that, the Brynn is only one of several alternate designs that I've heard excel in rooms of approx the size you mentioned, although with the FE127EN. It is a dang simple build compared to some of the other candidates. As noted above and elsewhere, it might deliver acceptable performance with the 126E, albeit with the requirement for correcting R, and some limitations in SPL due to lesser degree of excursion control vs an adequately designed BLH.

For your room and described listening tastes, the Torii should have more than enough power for any enclosure you decide - indeed if you didn't already have the FE126 at hand, I'd heartily recommend the Brynn/127 combo.
 
chrisb said:
Greg, for your application I think the FE126 is quite simply better suited to a small horn, and y'all can probably think of one from near your hood.

chrisb, Yea I own one and live about 2 hours from him, also going to the hornfest this year with my boy should be a real blast , I like this speaker alot and bought the little 126en for it , the speakers I bought were used and did not have drivers matched from Ed , I wanted to try Dave`s 126en drivers in the horns and it made that speaker sound much better with the 126en than the speaker did with the off the shelf 126e that were in it. I just wanted to try differnt cabs for that driver to see what it can do. Thanks Greg
 
Drumsgreg said:


chrisb, Yea I own one and live about 2 hours from him, also going to the hornfest this year with my boy should be a real blast , I like this speaker alot and bought the little 126en for it , the speakers I bought were used and did not have drivers matched from Ed , I wanted to try Dave`s 126en drivers in the horns and it made that speaker sound much better with the 126en than the speaker did with the off the shelf 126e that were in it. I just wanted to try differnt cabs for that driver to see what it can do. Thanks Greg

FWIW, the DIY enclosure in which I've so far heard the FE126 at its best is Ron Clarke's A126*, which compared to the various Fonken Prime designs is not all that difficult a build. However, based on direct experience, I think that any rear mouth BLH design larger than the Horns, and certainly any of the double mouth forward facing designs of the Scottmoose variety ( BLH or M/BVR) could be problematic in smaller rooms.

*pending audition of Saburo

It certainly couldn't hurt to try the Brynn with the FE126 -just please don't use MDF,or expect "insane" SPL levels.
 
Scottmoose said:
Note that it's already been covered that 5ohms is excessive; 2 - 3 should do it.

It makes it work in a cabinet it otherwise is unsuited to, raising effective Qe, lowering Re, Bl.


Scott, I know the idea has occurred to me before, and maybe it's been tried - but what about using a cheap 4 ohm L-pad wired as variable resistor to allow for dialing in resistance to achieve the desired balance?

Since the amplifier's output characteristics / speaker wire, etc are all part of the "dance", and they can clearly vary widely among systems (even in the same house), any opportunity to synchronize the partners' "pacing" could well be worth the potential compromise of additional components - particularly as in this case, we're taking about mitigating for the substitution of drivers not entirely suited to the application .

then again, this could just be a case of sleep deprivation and "caffeine boost lag" - the older I get, the longer I find it takes for even the second cup to kick in - (which is why I do none of my critical wood and veneer cutting first thing in the morning)
 
Quick question, where and how much stuffing do I put into the brynns? I have some 1/2" thick foam padding laying around, will this work? or should I buy something different?
I'm planning on using my 126e for the time being, but planning on purchasing pre enabled 127e from planet 10 in the near future. Not sure if this makes any difference in where or how much stuffing is used.
Thanks for the advice









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Rdylan said:
Quick question, where and how much stuffing do I put into the brynns? I have some 1/2" thick foam padding laying around, will this work? or should I buy something different?
I'm planning on using my 126e for the time being, but planning on purchasing pre enabled 127e from planet 10 in the near future. Not sure if this makes any difference in where or how much stuffing is used.
Thanks for the advice



I lined all 6 surfaces of the chamber and one side of the off center driver brace with a layer of approx 3/4" vintage recycled cotton felt ( much softer than fiber glass) - a close material would be automotive upholstery under padding.

Our first prototype pair was another one of those "fingers crossed" exercises in terms of the levels of wall padding. Scott or Dave can correct me , but I doubt that much adjusting the wall padding or extra stuffing would compensate enough for the differences I heard between the 3 Fostex drivers in this enclosure (i.e. FF125K, FE126 & FE127)

If it's not too late in your construction, I'd suggest that you fabricate the enclosure to allow removal of the front driver baffle (i.e. via ledger strips/foam weatherstripping and threaded insert fittings). If you want to play with padding or stuffing once the box is together, you'll have a tough time with a driver cut-out of only 102mm.



Also be aware of the difference in mounting depth to the back of the magnet assemblies on the two drivers in question. (i.e. the FE127 is approx 4mm deeper than the FE126). We're of the opinion that even with drivers as small as these, tight coupling of the driver's magnet to the enclosure is desirable. In cases where we plan on swapping drivers with known differences of internal mounting dimensions, I plan for the largest/deepest driver, and shim the gaps with small strips or blocks of wood.
 
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