Brynn's with fe126e

[Rdylan]

I'm planning to build my first set of speakers, I already have a pair of used fe126e fostex. I've been scouring these pages trying to decide on an enclosure that would work for me. I'm thinking that the Brynns from planet 10's website would work.
I'm very new at this ( both diy speakers and woodworking) so I was hoping everyone here could give me a little advise. First is I don't know what a 5rseries is? The plans say the 126e has a 5r series. Also I've got no way to accurately cut the wood, what do others do when they haven't got accurate cutting tools? thanks

[Scottmoose]

It means put a 5ohm resistor in series with the driver. If you've no way to accurately cut the wood, then either

a/ get someone else to do it for you, or

b/ don't try building speakers until you can. Accuracy is essential.

[planet10]

What tools do you have? Even with just a jig saw, some clamps, a straightedge, patience & ingenuity you can cut the wood accurately enuff.

The series resistance may not need to be as large as 5R. With our tube ampss we settled on 2 or 3R.

dave

[Scottmoose]

The 5ohm suggestion dated from a time when the Fostex spec. for the 126 was assumed to be accurate (which it isn't) -as Dave says, in reality, you'd probably get by with 2 - 3ohms.

True enough -I built the prototype pair of Harvey's in a leaking garage, with a blunt 40 year old hand saw, a hand-drill (equally old), a square (even older), a file (ditto) a pencil and copious amounts of PVA & bathroom filler / sealant. Those are the ones with the stone-effect baffle on the FH site -they turned out OK, although I wouldn't exactly recommend it; I'm the world's worst builder. OTOH, at least Brynn isn't too hard a cabinet to build.

[Rdylan]

I'll be running the speakers with a 40watt el34 based tube amp. So I just put a 3-5ohm resistor on the positive wire before the speaker?
The cut I'm worried about the most would be the angled piece on the inside, what could I use to cut that? I have or have access to your basic woodworking tools ie. circular saw, jigsaw ect. But I don't have a table saw.

[planet10]

Originally posted by Rdylan
The cut I'm worried about the most would be the angled piece on the inside, what could I use to cut that? I have or have access to your basic woodworking tools ie. circular saw, jigsaw ect. But I don't have a table saw.

A circular saw + a file can do that, but it would be even easier (althou use more wood) to build a stepped deflector -- those only need 90 degree cuts and will automatically mass load the base.

dave

[Rdylan]

I like the stepped deflector idea, would you use birch ply for that or mdf? If you use ply what do you do to clean up the edges?

[chrisb]

If your tube amp has multiple impedance taps, you could play with a combination of mis-matching that, thin (as in #24 or smaller) speaker wire and a small amount of series R.

While I personally preferred the Brynns with FE127 ( or HA FR4.5) rather than the FE126, as the saying goes, YMMV. It sounds like you have more than adequate power available - is it possible for you to experiment with running the EL34 in triode mode? I converted my Jolida 302 about 8yrs ago, and don't miss the extra power at all.

[Drumsgreg]

How good is the Brynn, I wanted to builded the Saburo, but I think the cab is to big for my room 20x12x8. I have Dave`s 126en to use in the speaker. Most of the music is Jazz and blues, got a deware Torii MKII amp to use with the speaker. Greg

[901Fixer]

As I've seen mentioned here and what I've run into in Orlando is the supplier for Baltic Birch is a cabinet maker so they are able to sell you the wood cut to spec. Price can vary and even seem kinda high but a good cut makes it go together easier and look better.

On large pieces a table saw isn't much good. A large radial arm saw is the ticket and cabinet makers usually have one and/or an upright panel saw. Until you get savvy with a circular saw or jigsaw, having it cut may be your best option.