They are designed for the old ones, but Scott says the new & old are interchangable in his designs.
One of the beta testers is getting Mk 2s so i will look at them. I may adjust the height of the port spacers.
One of the beauties of these designs (we have discovered as we make more of them) is that once a base size is established), is that a new driver only requires different cutout, holey brace and different height port spacers.
dave
One of the beta testers is getting Mk 2s so i will look at them. I may adjust the height of the port spacers.
One of the beauties of these designs (we have discovered as we make more of them) is that once a base size is established), is that a new driver only requires different cutout, holey brace and different height port spacers.
dave
I am planning to built double CHR-70 speakers based on this design: CHR70 Double Driver Box Plan | Markaudio. How important it is to keep the height the same as it is in this plan? The space where I have planned to place these speakers allows just 300mm in height, so can I change it if I keep the total volume the same (making cabinet bigger in widht and depht)?
I am going to use those speakers in home theatre (room size about 25 square meters, room height 2,5 meters), all 5 channels.
I am going to use those speakers in home theatre (room size about 25 square meters, room height 2,5 meters), all 5 channels.
Finally got around to putting together the second test speaker and tried them out on the old Onkyo HT using Phillips BOTL DVD player as the CD player. At first they sounded a little nasal but that straightened out within 5 minutes. Strange. Is it normal for these to change their tonality as they warm up? Maybe it is my rcvr warming up or something.
I used several CDs for testing. The Faure requiem was first up and the vocals were outstanding. The strings all sounded exactly as they should. The imaging was almost as good as my open baffle systems. Very good considering that I have not tried to optimize their positioning in this test. The soft organ pedal tone at the end of the Sanctus was of course all but inaudible but that is a couple of octaves below the bottom of the expected range in this configuration so no surprise there. You could here a little of the overtones if you listened carefully.
The R. Strauss horn concerti really showed good presence and imaging again. Even though the bottom octave or two was slight to missing the balance of what was there was excellent. I think that integrating with the sub should be quite easy. In some of the complex orchestral passages there was just a hint of a midrange shout (more like raising its voice rather than a real shout) but overall much smoother than most MRs I have heard.
In the "New World Symphony" the tympani were quite good with all of the dynamics and image that I expect from this recording. Strings were silky smooth as they should be. Solo instruments had perfect presence.
The last up was the Mozart Clarinet concerto. Where a Clarinet is mellow it was mellow and where a Clarinet is piercing it was piercing. What more can one say? It is as it should be.
Once the sub is added I think we will have a real winner here. My wife liked them so much that she said that I could only use them for my grand daughters project if I bought another set for use with this system.
I used several CDs for testing. The Faure requiem was first up and the vocals were outstanding. The strings all sounded exactly as they should. The imaging was almost as good as my open baffle systems. Very good considering that I have not tried to optimize their positioning in this test. The soft organ pedal tone at the end of the Sanctus was of course all but inaudible but that is a couple of octaves below the bottom of the expected range in this configuration so no surprise there. You could here a little of the overtones if you listened carefully.
The R. Strauss horn concerti really showed good presence and imaging again. Even though the bottom octave or two was slight to missing the balance of what was there was excellent. I think that integrating with the sub should be quite easy. In some of the complex orchestral passages there was just a hint of a midrange shout (more like raising its voice rather than a real shout) but overall much smoother than most MRs I have heard.
In the "New World Symphony" the tympani were quite good with all of the dynamics and image that I expect from this recording. Strings were silky smooth as they should be. Solo instruments had perfect presence.
The last up was the Mozart Clarinet concerto. Where a Clarinet is mellow it was mellow and where a Clarinet is piercing it was piercing. What more can one say? It is as it should be.
Once the sub is added I think we will have a real winner here. My wife liked them so much that she said that I could only use them for my grand daughters project if I bought another set for use with this system.
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Dave, with a brace on the back - do you think it would help if the brace is like in some other plans where it comes from back wall straight towards to speaker elements to give support on back side of elements (and there are lots of holes in the brace)?
In most of the plans those holes have accurate dimensions and locations, so does it make difference or is it just important that air moves without too much resistance from side to side?
I would also like to have a comment from you about the plan I have selected, do yu think I will get benefit on the double element speaker versus one element (like the Onken) in my usage?
In most of the plans those holes have accurate dimensions and locations, so does it make difference or is it just important that air moves without too much resistance from side to side?
I would also like to have a comment from you about the plan I have selected, do yu think I will get benefit on the double element speaker versus one element (like the Onken) in my usage?
My feeling is that most speakers can benefit from a holey driver brace. Sometimes i one have it as a comment in the notes in the drawings, but in our speaker builds, even the smallest, we usually have such a brace.
The criteria are that the brace is firm against the driver magnet, but not so much as to stress the basket. Making it a bit deep and using something like pieces of paper to build it up to proper depth works.
The holes should be 30-40% of the area of the brace, i prefer circles. They can be champhered or rounded over if you want. Placement of holes should be such that a solid path remains directly behind the driver all the way to the back panel, and that holes are not so close to each other or the sides to weaken the panel. A half circle to leave room for a terminal cup is fine.
2 drivers per box gives more synamic capability, but 2 on the front may "blur" the higher frequencies somewhat (jurt is still out on how much -- i've heard some that were fine), side, rear or top mounting of the 2md driver helps with baffle step and gives a more spacious speaker.
Double-driver miniOnken are certainly doable, the only example to date is the uFonken^2 with 2 FF85KeN. There are quite a few of scottmoose designs that support dual drivers as well as any metronome.
dave
The criteria are that the brace is firm against the driver magnet, but not so much as to stress the basket. Making it a bit deep and using something like pieces of paper to build it up to proper depth works.
The holes should be 30-40% of the area of the brace, i prefer circles. They can be champhered or rounded over if you want. Placement of holes should be such that a solid path remains directly behind the driver all the way to the back panel, and that holes are not so close to each other or the sides to weaken the panel. A half circle to leave room for a terminal cup is fine.
2 drivers per box gives more synamic capability, but 2 on the front may "blur" the higher frequencies somewhat (jurt is still out on how much -- i've heard some that were fine), side, rear or top mounting of the 2md driver helps with baffle step and gives a more spacious speaker.
Double-driver miniOnken are certainly doable, the only example to date is the uFonken^2 with 2 FF85KeN. There are quite a few of scottmoose designs that support dual drivers as well as any metronome.
dave
Now that they're finished I'll go ahead and post these here!
Nothing super fancy as far as box construction goes. These are just sealed with some basic bracing. I haven't even tried any stuffing yet. I'll play with that sometime when I've got my measurement rig all set up.
This is me playing with new construction techniques. The box is entirely miter joints, "birch-ply", with a 1/4" walnut inlay.
They sound pretty good! I was worried they'd be a little bass starved in the sealed box, but they're not that bad at all, and since I'm using them near-field and generally not cranking them too much, they'll take a pretty good deal of bass boost to suit listening tastes with no ill effect.
I get to keep these ones Next up, a similar styled box with Alpair10s, ported, for my roommate!
Nothing super fancy as far as box construction goes. These are just sealed with some basic bracing. I haven't even tried any stuffing yet. I'll play with that sometime when I've got my measurement rig all set up.
This is me playing with new construction techniques. The box is entirely miter joints, "birch-ply", with a 1/4" walnut inlay.
They sound pretty good! I was worried they'd be a little bass starved in the sealed box, but they're not that bad at all, and since I'm using them near-field and generally not cranking them too much, they'll take a pretty good deal of bass boost to suit listening tastes with no ill effect.
I get to keep these ones
Next up, a similar styled box with Alpair10s, ported, for my roommate!Attachments
wow! i mean is it a wacom tablet monitor?
btw your building is gorgeus! with the colors of the monitor and the walls they do a very good job at visually disappear.
hope i had your skills at putting wood togheter...
since its an all computer rig you can try something like the sealed alpair-5 pushed to 20hz flat, to see where the chr-70 can arrive nearfield... there is a thread here explaining how to get powerful VST equalizer under win and foobar
ps. are you using a right-handed mouse with your left hand?
btw your building is gorgeus! with the colors of the monitor and the walls they do a very good job at visually disappear.
hope i had your skills at putting wood togheter...
since its an all computer rig you can try something like the sealed alpair-5 pushed to 20hz flat, to see where the chr-70 can arrive nearfield... there is a thread here explaining how to get powerful VST equalizer under win and foobar
ps. are you using a right-handed mouse with your left hand?
Yeah! It's a Cintiq 21UX. I do a bit of illustration/animation, and I have some RSI/muscle tension issues in my arms. The Cintiq is FAR more ergonomic than using a tablet. My roommate actually owns it, but we're working on some video game development and I'm kinda the lead artist for what we're working on so I get the honor of using it, currently
Ooh, yeah, I remember reading that thread awhile back! I will indeed have to give that a shot!
Yup! I use it in both hands. I have a second mouse that sits to the right, too. I like to switch back and forth as my right arm otherwise gets way too tense and painful if I'm using it all day.
It took a little getting used to, the left handed mouse thing, but it's not so bad for just basic clicking around. When doing serious work and/or gaming, I swap to right hand
Those monitors are very nice. I've sold a couple to clients who really like them.
dave
you can probably do it in the less time than i spend to come up with a speaker built (which is still an unknown span of time, now running more than 8 months from the day i ordered the drivers )
UK artist builds DIY Wacom Cintiq tablet for under $200 -- Engadget
Bongofish - DIY Cintiq - Part 1
)UK artist builds DIY Wacom Cintiq tablet for under $200 -- Engadget
Bongofish - DIY Cintiq - Part 1
Nice tablet, I'm a computer graphic designer and have used the cintiq a few times , wish I had the funding to own a 21U but at the moment I don't. It will be nice when these type of input devices are available at reasonable prices to the general public. I await the results of the miliFonken and once again cool tablet.
, wish I had the funding to own a 21U but at the moment I don't. It will be nice when these type of input devices are available at reasonable prices to the general public. I await the results of the miliFonken and once again cool tablet.
Not so much. It's a very very different technology.
Well, let me elaborate on that. Any tablet PC or touchscreen can be used for basic drawing, but there are specific advantages to certain technologies.
The technology on the iPad is the same as on most touch phones these days. It uses the specific capacitance of human skin to determine where you're pressing. A human finger is not very accurate, not to mention you can't see what you're drawing on as it's obscured by your finger. There are special styluses that work that are designed to mimic a finger, but there isn't any pressure sensitivity, which is one of the biggest meaningful features of a drawing tablet. The benefits of drawing ON the screen are not so great that they overcome the benefits of the accuracy and pressure/angle sensitivity of a drawing tablet. Instead of spending 400 bucks on an iPad, you could get a nice large Wacom tablet and just use that.
The wacom tablets use a circuitboard the emits an electromagnetic field that extends an inch or so from the surface of the tablet. The stylus is a very sophisticated thing that has the pressure sensitivity built into the pen itself, and it powers itself using the EMF from the tablet, so there are no batteries involved. It then transmits pressure information back to the tablet, and the tablet calculates it's position based on it's location within the field. It can do this with insane sub-pixel accuracy. Crazy crazy stuff!
mMarS - almost done
Hey folks, here's my effort - using Dave's splendid mMarS design:
Did these as a practice build before trying some newer wall-mounted designs. Terrible iPhone pic, and currently only finished in primer (not sure what final colour to go with), and lacking stuffing, but sounding good nonetheless!
Powered by my t-amp, no filter, used 1/2" roundover instead of flat bevel due to lack of table saw.
Thanks to all who've contributed to this thread - it's a great resource!
Hey folks, here's my effort - using Dave's splendid mMarS design:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Did these as a practice build before trying some newer wall-mounted designs. Terrible iPhone pic, and currently only finished in primer (not sure what final colour to go with), and lacking stuffing, but sounding good nonetheless!
Powered by my t-amp, no filter, used 1/2" roundover instead of flat bevel due to lack of table saw.
Thanks to all who've contributed to this thread - it's a great resource!
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