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Old 10th March 2010, 11:32 AM   #421
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default bring it along...

If I drag that thing with me, I'd likely use it as a boat anchor , if only I had a boat.
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Old 11th March 2010, 11:15 PM   #422
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default Sanken amplifier listening comments.

terrible! In fact unlistenable. Until I went from passive to active mode on the Microline Drive--then, whoa momma! A little bit of "smiley face" frequency response (unmeasured but easily identified). Mainly like an Icon with smoother frequency extremes, and slightly less deep bass (dampening factor is obviously much higher than the Icon's). Joni Mitchell's "Magdalene Laundry" from the Chieftain's "Tears of Stone" cd was pretty convincing, as was Mary Black's "Song for Ireland". This setup is better overall than the Icon, the space became more 3D-like, deeper, wider..higher. Top end slightly sub-dued compared to the Icon, but doesn't attract as much attention. I guess I could try the Amp sans preamp and see how that is using it's own built in preamp.
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Old 12th March 2010, 05:38 AM   #423
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default continuing adventures...

SE 6BM8 based Phillips receiver (from 1961). er I'm kinda worried about bagging these lil'bastards.

Bass like no tomorrow, everything I thought that could be lacking in all the amps I've tried thus far. Everything is better---top end , imaging , tonality, PRAT (not PRaT, there is a difference). Thankfully very easy to do. I am using the old receiver's "tape playback" jacks and setting its own preamp at a fixed level. Attached the iMac to the inputs and control the output via the controls on the iMac.

The good news: the bass became more acceptable as I placed the speakers on some BB 1-1/2" squares X 3/4"thick on the cabinet. Now the console doesn't vibrate as much. No complaints please, I understand that this is not rigorous in any way, just what I can manage to get done in the limited space I have to use. The receiver is 50 years old, and I am sure it has the same tubes that it has always had in it (and is a beaut, cherry cabinet, 2 pairs of Phillips full rangers insitu, made in Tarawnna no less, by some genuine Canuck )

The bad news: I now need a little stand alone SE 6BM8 amp, cause I can't imagine it getting much better than this. Additional power is not required. Int my dungeon, perhaps 2-3 watts SE is max required. Not trying to stir the pot, but this is by far the best combination I've tried here. I am sure the 300B would be better, and everyone has their favourite amp (catch that one chris ?).

Listening to this in a near-field position 5-6 ' isosceles triangle. kd lange's "Hallelujah" has never sounded this good. I haven't listened via the McCormack amp yet, but at 125 watts/ch RMS it should be able of expelling the little drivers out of their frames (and the enclosure). Guess I better get some power resistors to reduce the dampening factor ...
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Old 12th March 2010, 06:51 AM   #424
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You are making me jealous now Nanook, I'd love to get a pair of these built for our Southern Ontario meet sometime this year, sounds like you've been happy so far, keep well.
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Old 12th March 2010, 07:09 AM   #425
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Shane,

Did you get my email of yesterday re beta?

dave
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Old 12th March 2010, 07:37 AM   #426
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That depends Dave , if you sent me one after I agreed to your terms then no I have yet to get a new message. If in fact that message is the message your referring to then I think I returned it with an answer. LOL. Let me know if theres anything you need from me, you have my e-mail addy.

Nanook, what did you use material wise for final construction? Ply and MDF or just ply? I'd like these made with Maruco Ply (way cheaper than marine ply in my area and I have a friend that owns a lumber yard....) and would like to veneer a pair in quilted maple or waterfall bubinga I have laying around, Oh I have some nice cherry also with lots of heartwood grain hmmm decisions. Anyhow my main question was how did you find construction on these, I have a brad nailer and clamps so they shouldn't be too difficult, any special tips on construction?

Chrisb, if your watching this thread.... How difficult have you found it to get good seems and nice lines with figured veneer around the ports, I'm dreading doing it by hand because the slot isn't wide enough for a flush trim bit, not any I currently have anyhow. And with an xacto knife I've had very limited success with heavy figured veneers, generally with them tearing out along my cut line or causing very uneven cuts, even with a straight edge... Any pointers....?

Anyhow thanks for your time fellahs, it'll help out.

Shane

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Shane,

Did you get my email of yesterday re beta?

dave
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Old 12th March 2010, 07:48 AM   #427
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Then it is me that hasn't seen your email yet... i've been out most of yesterday & today and have yet to get to my main machine. I only collect a subset on my PowerBook. I'll send the beta form when i dig it out.

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Old 12th March 2010, 08:39 AM   #428
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Originally Posted by speakrsrfun View Post
Nanook, what did you use material wise for final construction? Ply and MDF or just ply? I'd like these made with Maruco Ply (way cheaper than marine ply in my area and I have a friend that owns a lumber yard....) and would like to veneer a pair in quilted maple or waterfall bubinga I have laying around, Oh I have some nice cherry also with lots of heartwood grain hmmm decisions. Anyhow my main question was how did you find construction on these, I have a brad nailer and clamps so they shouldn't be too difficult, any special tips on construction?
Mine are mostly ply (hoop pine, best stuff I could get locally, but I can't recommend it, it's quite soft) with MDF for the port spacers only (they need to be 9mm, which may limit your choices somewhat).

Construction is trivial - build up the side walls (outer wall, spacers, inner wall) with the brad gun, then build up from the base. I found it easiest to clamp the back wall in place and glue the sides, then glue the back in (remember to add your bindings posts/terminals). Route the baffles, drop the drivers in, and test fit with the holey brace. Glue the brace in and line the walls with felt. Glue the top on, wire up your terminals, glue the baffle in, add the drivers, and listen.

[This is not necessarily the best way, just the way I've done it]

Pics tomorrow when I'm finishing the pair.
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Old 12th March 2010, 05:19 PM   #429
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hi,

I have been reading the most posts in this thread now.. and I discovered a lot of different designs, but I cant tell which of the desktop-designs for listening in the near-field is the best?

Can you maybe give me a suggestion which design I should try for listening in the near-field?

To me it is always very difficult to decide which loudspeaker I should build, because I have no possibilities to listen to them before I have finally finished them.

greetings,
Chris
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Old 12th March 2010, 09:21 PM   #430
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default materials, cabinet design, etc...

Quote:
Can you maybe give me a suggestion which design I should try for listening in the near-field?
Well I must say that in the nearfield, the beta tested dMar-Ken enclosure sounds great, but is a little large. If desktop listening is what you are after, maybe some of Dave's smaller designs (μMar-Kens? cMar-Kens?) might suit. The dMarkens are approximately 325mm (H) X 230mm (W) X 210mm (D) ( 12 3/4" X 9 1/16" X 8 3/8"), so not small, but not huge either. See the attached picture.

Regarding materials, these were built using what is readily available here: Baltic Birch Ply, marine grade, 12.7 mm (1/2"). The slats for the "vents" are BB ply, 10mm, marine grade. Big believer in BB ply as a material. Used 1/2" felt carpet underlay and poly for dampening material. Drivers are Dave's CHR-70eN. The internal dimensions have been strictly adhered to, and a little input from Dave has helped. Perhaps Apple ply or similar might be available where you are at, reportedly very good for enclosures as well. I always strongly advise against MDF for enclosures. Please no "materials" comments, there have been lots of discussions about this here, as well on other forums. Also note the spray painted black vents. This will be sanded down, leaving only the internal vents left black. Every time I see a speaker with lighter coloured vents compared to external finish of the speaker, it looks wrong to me. To be wrapped in Birch veneer, and then finished. I'm thinking either polyurethane or "grain" sealer, then a very red mahogany coloured finish.

Construction is just as TheSeeker has stated, somewhat trivial. Just take your time. With enough carpenters glue, little clamping is required, but suggested. Perhaps the most difficult part is cutting the bevel on the front baffle/sides.
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